I don't understand after all the years the Mini has been around why the earlier bean can masters for the clutch and the brake have not been manufactured with a connecting rod that stays on the pedal box thus enabling removal from the engine bay without being a contortionist.

Good point Alex. I should have acknowledged that there are some applications where a cotter pin is mandatory.  

Firefox works fine too.

DON'T for the love of God use a D-ring like the one pictured on you brake and clutch clevis pins - it has the potential to be fatal.

Big R clips, and by association D-rings, can rotate and jam the pedals either up or down... not what you want at speed...

With the right method - seat out and lifting the pedal to stop the clevis pin from rotating - the correct split pins can be removed or inserted from the clevis pins in seconds.

Interesting as I am using the latest IE and have had no issues in the past.

Fattogatto (fat cat) , hey mate, you posted twice but we can't see your messages,  use google Chrome or upload the latest version of IE.

You need one of these long nose with bent tip to do the task faster and easier, some people use improper tools like small pliers etc then they complain when it took them too long to fix it,  listen to me , use this kind of plier and you'll fix it like a breeze. Trust me on this one.

While trying my best to not get dirty today, I went to the garage and pulled a complete lat Mark III LHD pedal assembly down from a shelf and looked at it. 2A 5880 is the shaft with the clip looking thing on the end, this prevents it from rotating. The pedals each have a bushing inside, and perhaps one or both of these are tight to the shaft which is why it isn't just falling apart for you.

The bolt you discovered working as a clevis pin is, of course, wrong. All of these parts do wear, so look carefully for ovalled holes. Do not use anything other than a clevis pin and a correctly sized cotter pin for this assembly. Other solutions, like R clips, etc. are not really any faster and are less reliable.

Reducing wear in these parts may not be a priority for many people, but the benefits go far beyond the subtlety of feeling the master cylinder work the moment you touch the pedals. It is especially important for those out of whack clutch geometries that people try to solve with adjustable pushrods or bent arms.  

I read once that mini rally cars in the 1970s using the large cap master cylinder would have adjustable push rods fitted to the pedal! I have no idea how these would be adjusted, but I can see how tightening that up would be nice. Note that these large cap MCs can be removed without extracting the clevis pin.

I'll have to look at one in the parts bin but I don't think it is a strange clip. As I recall it is not removable from the bolt and it has a pin built into it that locates into the pedal box frame.

Good advice. I've replaced many of my cotter pins with d-rings or snap rings. EZ on, EZ off and EZ to reuse w/o tools. Takes me about 30 secs to remove my seats. Plus, d-rings don't snag on things and are kinder to the flesh.

not sure about the 'big' bolt you're referring to.  MM should have an exploded view of the pedal box with parts, so maybe look under parts for sale, brakes, and see if you can find an answer or at least the part #'s/


Only in an emergency should you use a bolt instead of the clevis pin. It it's not absolutely round, it will have a cutting action and oval the holes.

clevis pins are cheap and readily available along with a d ring instead of a cotter pin.

Can anyone shed light on the strange clip on the non-threaded end of the large bolt holding the brake and clutch pedals to the pedal bracket around which the spring is coiled?  The whole unit is quite rusty and needs a dismantle and cleaning.

Also, was it standard practice to use a turned-down bolt for the brake pedal clevis pin instead of the normal pin (as was installed on the clutch clevis)?  Bolt would not come out so cutting the brake master cylinder push-rod was only solution to remove the master.

Thanks,