No wonder! I was curious about the 'universal' door theory - assuming every mini is crash free

THE BFH and EBFH were freely wielded during the production on a Mini shell, any footage on YouTube will confirm this.  Door apertures were belted every which way to get them to roughly the right size & shape, as were other bits of the shell.  A friend who went round Longbridge towards the end of production tells tales of 2"x4" beams being used to 'massage' the shape of door frames to achieve an acceptable fit.

Doors also need to be fitted to the shell, not the shell to the doors, which is why it is a false economy to buy doors from another car or reskinned door from somewhere like The Minidoor Company as they almost certainly won't fit...

Pics are showing latches 1/2 way open to show the angle.  They snap back and lock the windows open.

In the current position it would seem that the windows would not stay open when driving down the road. The latch arm needs to flip back on itself to lock it all into position.

I had the same problem on my mini and on my MGC GT. I did reposition the screws on the C but both windows needed a little force at the hinge to "straighten" the fit. They are quite soft metal so be careful if you do this. I will shortly be applying some targeted force on my mini doors to align them with the opening as the adjustment points don't quite work in the same dimensions I need. My suspicion is that the same techniques were used at the factory to improve alignments having seen a picture of a guy wielding a large hammer on the front valance of a Triumph Stag at the end of the production line....
Steve

Thanks guys - will give this a go this a go this weekend! 

x2 what Alex said.

Once you have found the new position for the Latch on the C pillar you will have to drill new holes in the C pillar there to screw in to.  Be careful on the hole diameter so the sheet metal screws will have good thread engagement, and use a posi-drive screw driver to turn the screws (NOT a philips, that will strip out their heads).


N

No two windows are absolutely identical, their method of construction dictates this.

I've recently rebuilt a pair of windows using brand new glass in good used frames.  On swapping them over with the ones I installed 2-1/2 years ago, I had to reposition the catch bracket quite a long way downwards to get it to close properly without the gap you've shown.  Be careful while testing a new window as well, mine was pulling up hard against the paint as well as not sealing.

Unscrew the catch, get an assistant to push the window closed and see where he catch naturally wants to fall when in the closed position - you may be quite surprised at how far out it is.

Need some help from the group here - and badly.  Long story short, I went with a used RHD rear quarter light window (from a buddy) that was resealed and looks fine.  Odd thing is that when I close this window, there is a clear gap (pic 2) when the latch clamps down into place.  The LHD window does not have a gap.  New rubber window (body) seals were installed, so it is fresh rubber and installed correctly.

The only think I can see why this is happening is that on the RHD replacement window, there is more of a curve with the latch strap part (see pic 2) vs the one that is latching more tightly - with a straighter latch strap part (pic 3).

Anyone have any ides on why I am getting a gap?  Is there a way to adjust the RHD latch in order to close up that gap in the rear corner?

Maybe move the RHD latch mounting point (with two screws) a bit further back in car, or maybe insert a small shim under the latch mounting point to raise the clamp "bite"?

Just need an engineer here to thinking about the hinge points and how to make it "pull" in more when closing.