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 Posted: Jan 31, 2018 12:28PM
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US
Thanks for the feedback on the link. I may need to regenerate the code on that, as I don't update the English side very often.
This is how it is on my main site (Spanish)

 Posted: Jan 31, 2018 11:03AM
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US
Remembering the Wix/NAPA oil filter number is easy, look for the numbers same as the firing order; 1342.

 Posted: Jan 31, 2018 10:45AM
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I can’t seem to get the link to work using any of the above methods. But nonetheless this is a very interesting and informative thread. I’m now inclined to adopt Bikewiz’s K&N filter idea for the reason he mentions ( not having to remove the grill ) at least until I decide wether or not to install a quick release set up on my grill ( I likely will for distributor reasons alone ). When I paid for my car I also ordered 5 litres of the Valvoline oil , a filter, a distributor cap, rotor button , condenser and points ( a small breakdown kit for the Boot ). So I’ll use whatever filter I’m sent first, unless it’s Fram.

 Posted: Jan 31, 2018 09:46AM
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CA
Richard: I'm still getting the warning message. However if, in the address bar,  I delete the "s" in "https/" to make it "http/..." it works fine. The "s" indicates it is a 'secure' website, and my browser says it isn't.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jan 31, 2018 09:11AM
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GB

I used to work in the paper mill that made the FRAM filter paper.

Never used one since...

 Posted: Jan 31, 2018 08:37AM
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US
I just figured out that message is due to the ending on the html page showing that it is a photo page. This seems to work.

//www.widman.biz/English/Filters/aceite-usados.html

What the ZDDP (zinc & Phosphorous) is coat the metal with its polar attraction so that when you do not have oil film present, the parts slide along those additives that roll off and come back, continuing to stick. But don't att more or you can have too much, where it attacks the steel.

I use only Donaldson Filters, since I represent them and have lots of them on hand. On the next level, Mann or Wix (which is also NAPA) are satisfactory. Just stay away from Fram and Chinese.

 Posted: Jan 31, 2018 07:51AM
 Edited:  Jan 31, 2018 07:52AM
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Dan; Spitz; thank you gentlemen ! Much appreciated! Dan it’s a relief to have the canister filter. If it had the old paper element type of filter I was prepared to buy the adapter to convert to spin on. The old non-canister type are just a bit fiddly to fit while ensuring the large circular rubber gasket stays in proper position. Cheers guys, Darren.

 Posted: Jan 31, 2018 07:42AM
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CA
Forget Fram

Go to NAPA, or your local auto parts place that stocks WIX
I don't recall the number off hand.....just ask for a filter for a 73 MG Midget

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Jan 31, 2018 07:33AM
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CA
I get the same "go back" warning for that website.
Darren: your filter type should be the spin-on canister type.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jan 31, 2018 06:51AM
 Edited:  Jan 31, 2018 06:55AM
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Thank you for the oil and filter info Richard1. Certainly theseller claimed to be a mini fan, having two of his own ( or he would have kept the one he sold to me, he said ). This oil offers me a bit more assurance that the chap is as good as his personality seems. I am thinking the Zinc may help prevent oil sheer from the gears ( ? ). BTW I meant to write that for all but my first year or two of driving I have used either 10W-40 Castrol or 20W-50 Castrol. Regarding the filters, after looking ( literally ) into Fram filters, what brand or brands do you chose ? Although I have never seemed to have problems with Fram, a Mini is different, so it seems that I should at least try the brand of filter that you have found to be best. Would you please share that with me ? Also, my Mini is an 89 and I am wondering if that would be built to take the disposable canister type of filter, or the messy cartridge type ( such as I had on my 80 TR7 ). Does anyone know ? Thanks and best regards, Darren. BTW- from my location here in Canada, the link you provided goes to a warning message, advising the reader to go back due to possible identity misinformation.... PS- if I find that my Mini doesn’t already have a magnetic drain plug w/ catch filter, I intend to place one in my oil drain hole. I have to believe this will have at least some degree of extra protection, small or not so small. And I plan to change both oil and filter every 1500 kilometres. Again , cheap protection in the long run I believe, especially as the Mini should not require more than 3 oil/filter changes per year.

Final note- I learned yesterday that my Mini is to be picked up by the transport company either today or tomorrow. Yee Haw !! Can’t hardly wait to see her !

 Posted: Jan 31, 2018 03:50AM
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US
The valvoline he is referring to is probably the VR1, and that is fine when you want a 20W-50. It has the correct levels of zinc and is much better than trying to mix your own. 

As for Fram, in the course of my investigations, I have seen so many defective Fram filters that I don't even bother any more. About 90%was have the cardboard end caps off center, letting dirty oil around the end and into the return tube.
Several filters of different brands are cut open here: //www.widman.biz/English/Filters/aceite-usados.html#prettyPhoto

Here is one of them:

 Posted: Jan 29, 2018 03:27PM
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I am still waiting for my Mini to arrive, and actually expect it will be at least two more weeks before I see it arrive, but while considering the purchase of the Mini that I bought, I read a list of the work and materials that the Mini dealer/mechanic had done to the car after collecting it in Vancouver, but before he listed it for sale. On the oil subject, he has installed Valvoline 20W-50 High Zinc. I’m not experienced enough with Minis ( or Zinc ) to know if this is a good mix or not. He did rebuild the transmission because of a worn 3rd gear syncro issue...so perhaps the high Zinc has something to offer as far as break-in of the transmission goes ? On all of my previous cars ( and my daily driver ) I have always used Fram filters and Castorl 10w-30 or 10w-50. During approximately 35 years of driving I have never blown up an engine nor noticed increased wear while using the Fram filters and Castrol oil. Of course the Mini is different than my other vehicles, with the engine and transmission sharing the same oil, so I figured this thread would be a good source of information for me. Certainly I have never read as many disparaging comments on Fram filters before....perhaps I will change away from them.

Darren.

 Posted: Jan 24, 2018 12:05PM
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US
I hear "without any problems" every day. You can get by with straight 40, but will have a shorter engine life. If you don't plan on putting many miles on your car, fine. And in the Mini you will have more transmission wear, as it (in most brands) has a lot less additives.

But most of us would like to think they will get several hundred thousand miles between rebuilds, even if we won't be around to see them. I hope my granddaughter gets many years out of mine once I can't enjoy it.

 Posted: Jan 24, 2018 01:26AM
 Edited:  Mar 18, 2018 09:35PM
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 Posted: Jan 23, 2018 08:27PM
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I have used Purolator  #10028 for years and straight 40 W. in my 500 PLUS minis and mokes.. without ANY problems.. later b c

 Posted: Jan 23, 2018 06:55AM
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US
I will finally be back with my pup next week for about three weeks. I'll shoot temperatures of various points as well. I should note that when I put this together, after reading a lot of people complaining about temperature, I put in a 74ºC thermostat. I have an 82ºC on order. Hopefully it arrives during the time I'm with the pup and will install and check the differences.

 Posted: Jun 8, 2017 07:14AM
mur
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So, cylinder head temps at various points from one side to the other to see how different it is. Thermostat housing and then upper and lower tank of the radiator. The water pump - remember it is pumping cool coolant into the block, and then the lower part of the block. Check both sides of the coolant flowing through the oil/coolant exchanger.

As for the oil, see what the bottom of the transmission case is showing, and then the outlet banjo at the clutch end of the block, and then both the inlet and outlet of the oil/coolant exchanger. Then the temperature at the oil housing where the oil is flowing into the block and into the main oil gallery.

Remember that the oil is being drawn up from the sump and into the oil pump, and then pumped out of the block and down to the oil filter, then back into the block.

also, show images of your engine so people can get an idea of where these points are on different applications. 

I will I'll try to get a car out later today and take some readings.

 Posted: Jun 8, 2017 06:01AM
mur
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While oil used to suffer greatly in mini applications, that is no longer the case. 

Since temperature is no longer degrading the oil, and most of us can handle having warmer oil, then oil/coolant heat exchangers make sense.

Having a classic air/oil cooler behind the grille is only going to heat up air being drawn into the fan and pushed through the radiator.

Years ago, Todd, of Austin America dot com, took his 1380 powered America and a laser pointer thermometer and measured the oil temps while driving at modern highway speeds up a serious climb near where he lives. His post was good, useful data.

This makes me think that we would all benefit if Michael in SB took some time, choose a safe section of road that makes his car work hard, and measured his temperatures.

 Posted: Jun 7, 2017 03:45AM
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US
Oil temperatures are almost always lower than water temperatures, on all cars. I was a little surprised at how much lower on the mini than on others I check.
 
It is very handy to use the laser to check, sometimes you need to turn off the engine so air flow does not affect where you are measuring. I like to monitor the oil temp at the filter, as that is what is going into the engine and relates to the viscosity that will be flowing to the bearings, but on my Mini I put the sensor in the transmission. On my Corvair, which is air cooled, the temp sensor is on the oil flow out of the filter. After a hard run up the mountain to work I can get the temp (laser measured) up to 106ºC on a 40ºC day.

On my Grand Cherokees (previous and current) I can watch the temps on the dash. Oil is normally 5ºC to 10ºC below water temp, and it has an oil cooler with water from the radiator that opens at certain temps. As I push a hard mountain climb a full load in 40ºC weather, I can see the water temperature hit as much as 106ºC, but during the last 5º of that, the oil temp catches up to the water temp. Then, as I go down the other side, the water temp lowers faster than the oil temp.

The head is always the hottest part of the engine, as it gets direct heat from the burning of the gasoline. Very little oil flows through there, but a lot of water. Note that some cars now have two thermostats to regulate more coolant flow through the head than the block, trying to reduce problems of expansion and contraction that cause head gasket failure.

When I check temps of race cars at the end of the run, oil temps at the filter are often around 120ºC while coolant temps are 125ºC (held from boiling from the glycol in the coolant and the pressurized cap).

It is good to use the laser to check for gauge problems, measuring where the sensor is, or for finding blocked parts of your radiator. On engines with individual heads, you can check efficiency of burn by checking the head temps. 

 Posted: Jun 7, 2017 02:17AM
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CA
I find it a bit curious for some to be surprised that a Mini's oil would be cooler than the coolant temperature. The coolant surrounds the hottest part of the engine - the head combustion chamber and cylinder wall. Only a small portion of the oil flow goes to the head (where it is outside the water 'jacket') and is splashed on the cylinder walls etc. helping to lube and cool the pistons. Most of the oil lubes and cools the many bearings and gears etc. , which shouldn't produce huge amounts of heat if properly lubricated. The other big factor is that the transmission case is designed as a large heat sink - thick, conductive aluminum with cooling fins on the outside (as compared to a stamped steel engine oil pan).

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

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