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 Posted: Oct 2, 2017 06:33PM
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US
Oh gee!! I had more than a dozen of those early wheels that I scrapped because I couldn't give them away.

 Posted: Oct 1, 2017 06:19PM
 Edited:  Oct 1, 2017 06:22PM
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 Posted: Sep 15, 2017 06:09AM
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I think he has posted a couple of times that no sub frames or suspension parts were included. I think that's the subject of this thread not that we have stayed on topic. My powder coating guy dropped off four front sub frames this week also buying my two scooters and agreeing to coat a couple more in the deal. Rears as we know are a bigger problem and I don't currently have any of them I'd part with. I do have all the front and rear suspension parts and could order a new rear sub and build it up. 

You may have a hard time selling this project to a girl child. Women have a harder time seeing the end product looking at what could very well be called a pile of junk. My son Alex was dropped off and picked up from school every day from 3 year old pre K though 8th grade in a classic mini. We have six maybe seven I loose count, and he has no interest in owning or driving a classic mini. Good luck with that. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Sep 15, 2017 05:15AM
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The first two years (aprox) the wheels were made out of metal that was .070 thick and were rivited together. About that time wheels started failing. Particularly on the front/drive wheels. The metal would stress crack and eventually break apart. I actually had this happen to me once when I was a fairly new Mini owner, but that was nearly 40 yrs ago. Anyway, to solve the problem the metal thickness was increased to .120 and then welded together. The early wheels are dangerous to drive on, but there is a small fraction of folks that restore early cars and want those wheels to make it 100% correct. I don't think they drive on them, but they like to have them in place when they display the cars at a car show. Most of the folks that go to the trouble and expense of doing a 100 point restoration on an early car are in the UK or other countries. For the most part, people here in the US want speed and aren't interested in concours restoration of early 850s. There may be a few out there but not many. So, yes the wheels may be worth something to the guy restoring a 59 or 60 car for show, but the shipping to the UK is a killer for that. I have offered some to folks over there and they'd love to have them except for the stupic amount of shipping costs. And speaking of early cars, the early cars had single leading shoe brakes on the front. These brakes are dangerous as well. Your car probably has these as well. Which means that you either need to upgrade to twin leading shoe brakes or discs. Either of these will require different drive shafts as well, as the single leading shoe brakes had a different amount of splines on the CV joints. I think the early cars had 18 splines and the later twin leading shoe CVs had 19 splines. Again, those early parts may be worth something to someone, but dangerous for everyday use. If you have the space, I'd save them and offer them to someone who will use them in restoring an early car. JMHO. Always glad to help if you have any questions please feel free to email or call. Cheers, Hugh

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Sep 14, 2017 04:27PM
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Dr. Mini, I'm sorry I didn't take you up on your offer. We were in a race with Irma who was supposed to bring wind and rain to that part of the country Monday afternoon. I ended up going to see it. There were definitely some parts missing. Namely subframes and suspension components. It had multiple sets of all the glass. It had a bit more rust than I originally thought but the car came with new panels to repair 90% of it. There was no evidence of an attempted chopped top. All the pillars looked pretty good. I haven't had a chance to take inventory of everything that came with the car yet but I feel I got what the project I was looking for. I'm very excited to start tearing into it with my daughter who is, unfortunately, not as excited as I am. 
The next stupid question I have is regarding the "dangerous" riveted wheels. Are they worth anything to anyone or should I just find a big enough round file for them?
As always, thank you for your expertise 

 Posted: Sep 10, 2017 10:02AM
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Six pack, I still offer my eyes and knowledge if you want to stop by and pick me up as you travel through Knoxville. I have no interest in the car or parts, but I can help by identifying what's there and what's missing. No charge, I just love Minis and I'd hate for you to make an uninformed decision. Cheers, Hugh 865-256-5989

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Sep 10, 2017 08:09AM
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US
Sorry, I realize a correct and numbers matching 60 850 has value. As I pointed out, the power unit costs as much to rebuild as a Cooper S and you called it a boat anchor and not a practical driver. I have two 60 850 s and three Cooper projects. Completely done which would have the greater appeal and bring the most money? I have not looked at the links for this car. I keep hearing about doors that don't fit, doors don't ship cheap and are not easy to sell. Three gas tanks, the early correct one comes with it's own problems. 

Have a safe trip and please understand I have no interest in what you buy or do. Just throwing out a little of what I have learned in a 49 year love affair with the little car. Giving serious thought to calling 50 enough. Selling all equipment, tools cars and parts to get this 5500 sq ft shop that started as a place to keep my toys that did not upset the wife or neighbors off my books. Some one contacted me about my Restall Masterfit and I was not ready, shoot me another e mail and lets see what happens. 

Sorry for the hijack. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Sep 10, 2017 06:57AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1963SV2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Mini
I didn't see any: Glass (MK1 rear window is made of unobtanium) Gas tank Wiring Guages Headlights Taillights Signal lights Hinges (would've been brass on 1960) Shifter Exhaust Badges Wiring Hydraulics (master cylinders) Peddle box (brake & clutch peddles)
"..(MK1 rear window is made of unobtanium).."   I wouldn't agree with this.  Its the only kind we had Down Here and not hard to find (just send $$$$$$ for shipping.

But the rest of the list was kinda what I was getting at...  The brass hinges are another case in point... IF you were building a concours 60  then maybe you want the right ones ... however, even then they'd be covered in paint so why bother?? "Ordinary" hinges are identical in fit and function and are not hard to get hold of.  

As for my original point... all the bits above can be readily obtained new or used and bits from virtually any Mini can be used - as long as appropriate matches (e.g. a rod change box needs a rod change shifter) are made.  Your problem is just identifying the correct options....

The good news is that Minis are pretty basic and easily managed by a home mechanic.  With time and effort (and $$ you could turn those bits into neat car.

Cheers, Ian


I asked him about the glass. He said he dad it but didn't want to pull it out of the protection to take pics. I know I saw some gauges, some of the wiring and headlights. I saw it comes with 3 gas tanks. I'll update next week when I get back. I I end up bringing the car home, I post some pics and if I end up passing on it I'll keep in touch with the forum and continue looking for a fitting project for me and my daughter. It's a race with Irma at this point. I need to get in make my decisions and get out. Who're the rain and wind make it that far north. Wish me luck. 

 Posted: Sep 10, 2017 05:40AM
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He's looking at a 1960 850, not a Mayfair.

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Sep 10, 2017 04:56AM
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US
Not to beat a dead horse, but he is looking for information. Being a father daughter project reminds me of starting a father son mini project in 2000. I was lucky enough to locate a dead project with a rust free bare shell with doors boot and bonnet. It was mostly complete in the parts that came with it. Missing power unit, front suspension and brakes. At that time I paid $7000. for the complete pile of bits. I did a lot of the work myself and still was $18,500. by the time we were riding. Son Alex and I cover over 100,000 miles in the car then did a suspension, brake and power upgrade. At that time we spent another $7000. Installing a 1360 Cooper S power unit and trick tranny gave us a car that runs 70 mph at 3000 RPM and will reach and hold 100 mph as long as you are willing to consider what the ticket will look like. Clearly with Alex reaching driving age the S power has to come out and the trusty 998 comes back.

I currently have 5 1275 complete engine tranny projects working. I work with 5 different machine shops to insure the best outcome. The equipment is important but the person running the machine is just as important. Auto machine shops have changed with the new drive 200,000 miles between oil changes cars. Some have gone to heavy truck and marine, a few can make it with high performance only, Some are just selling re man exchange.

Something I have been thinking about recently, why spent these large sums on a Mayfair? If you are shopping try and find a project with the name Cooper attached. I think it will help insure your investment. What is that saying while you can make a pickle out of a cucumber you can't make a cucumber out of a pickle. Steve (CTR)   

 Posted: Sep 9, 2017 03:20PM
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you can get that book that Hugh listed for less on Amazon. Type in the isbn #.

 Posted: Sep 8, 2017 03:36PM
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I offered to build any engine he wanted and priced each option. Being a correct early 60 850 he wanted to retain his engine. He also wanted to be able to keep up with traffic. I think we were able to get what he wanted and he seems to be very happy. We did go a little over board on the engine. He also wanted to keep his original down pull choke SU with the cast manifold and exhaust. If we decide to add twin SU s and header it will fly and all the requirements to support that are already in there. If not for being a numbers matching car I would have had a harder time with the route we took. 

Don't throw those 850 s away I have the one from my Moke and plan to build a fire breather out of it. I may need some parts if I get another call for 850 rebuild. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Sep 8, 2017 12:41PM
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I'm sure it cost alot to build and I'm certain the quality of work was great. I just don't know why anyone would put that much money into an 850. Mokes do alright with an 850, but a sedan or wagon with and 850 is a dog.

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Sep 8, 2017 11:15AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Mini
https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=12922077806&searchurl=&cmtrack_data=cm_abecat%3D100200047
I bought that book. 7 to 21 business days for shipping. Can't wait to dive into that

 Posted: Sep 8, 2017 11:12AM
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Do the math, I did six or seven different ways. $80,000 for a 64 1071 Cooper S is a load of money as well. I recall how hard it was for me to cough up $350. for a ENB 40 Cooper S crank in 74 now they are pushing $3000. I have heard the new Swift cyl. heads are in the $6000. range. Seems nothing is impossible. Steve (CTR)

I'd list all the parts and labor but just as soon keep how we get there to myself. If you want a strong reliable 850 you have to built it to a reasonable spec. 

 Posted: Sep 8, 2017 08:48AM
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$6000 is a lot for a boat anchor...

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Sep 8, 2017 07:09AM
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I have a large library but still bought 100 old mini mags for a dollar each plus shipping. Messes me up sometimes, see something in the classifieds then realize the mag is 10 years old. 

Talking about what you will need, I recently rebuilt an early 60 850 engine. It took over a year for us to agree on what we wanted to do and how much it would cost. We priced a simple build rings, bearings, oil pump, valve job and gaskets. We even looked at boring .060, line boring for all cam bearings, ported 295 cyl. head, hot cam, twin carbs and header. We ended up doing a full rebuilt, balanced, and blue printed. Mild cam, first over size pistons, hardened seats, mild head work and O/S valves. We also were able to install a four synchro tranny with magic wand shift. All built, a couple of hours on test stand playing with needle, advance curve and chasing a small one drop every 24 hours oil leak ended up closer to $6000 than 5. The heart breaker is a 1275 will cost the same as an 850 or 998 parts and labor. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Sep 7, 2017 06:43PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Mini
I didn't see any: Glass (MK1 rear window is made of unobtanium) Gas tank Wiring Guages Headlights Taillights Signal lights Hinges (would've been brass on 1960) Shifter Exhaust Badges Wiring Hydraulics (master cylinders) Peddle box (brake & clutch peddles)
"..(MK1 rear window is made of unobtanium).."   I wouldn't agree with this.  Its the only kind we had Down Here and not hard to find (just send $$$$$$ for shipping.

But the rest of the list was kinda what I was getting at...  The brass hinges are another case in point... IF you were building a concours 60  then maybe you want the right ones ... however, even then they'd be covered in paint so why bother?? "Ordinary" hinges are identical in fit and function and are not hard to get hold of.  

As for my original point... all the bits above can be readily obtained new or used and bits from virtually any Mini can be used - as long as appropriate matches (e.g. a rod change box needs a rod change shifter) are made.  Your problem is just identifying the correct options....

The good news is that Minis are pretty basic and easily managed by a home mechanic.  With time and effort (and $$ you could turn those bits into neat car.

Cheers, Ian


 Posted: Sep 7, 2017 06:08PM
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I didn't see any: Glass (MK1 rear window is made of unobtanium) Gas tank Wiring Guages Headlights Taillights Signal lights Hinges (would've been brass on 1960) Shifter Exhaust Badges Wiring Hydraulics (master cylinders) Peddle box (brake & clutch peddles)

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Sep 7, 2017 05:12PM
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The add disappeared because he said he would take it down to give me preferential treatment. Didn't make much sense to me but, whatever, that's his option. 
I appreciate the concern. I've officially been warned. I think I'm still going to go take a look. I have been talking with him. He said there were parts that he didn't take pics of and that other than the subframes, it's a complete car. At this point I have no reason not to believe him. What parts are you noticing are missing? Definitely taking a list of things to look for would be a good idea. 
Once again, the friendliness and expertise in this forum is amazing. I'm glad I found this one first. 
And again thank you for all the info. 

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