Hi 6pack, I think you need to sit down and map out your way ahead....The featured car (craigslist ad seems to have disappeared) looks to me like a reasonable basis for a long term project.....however.  My casual observation would be that its a shell with bits.  And there seem to a lot of bits missing ... and finding them =$$$$$$. The top side pictures looked OK but the presence of new floor pan etc metal amongst the bits indicates why work might be required.

And there's a difference between a "running car" (as the ad might say) and something you'd be happy to send your daughter off to school in.  

I would strongly suggest you really need a "complete" car - that way you will have some idea of what you need when you go shopping...and a model for what goes where.  Also, having pulled things apart, you will have some idea of how it goes back together....  A good worksop manual - maybe a Haynes, although there are better ones once you start pulling things apart, Porter's book as suggested by DrMini and a Mini suppliers parts manual (I find a printed one that I can flip pages is easier than something on-line) will get you started.

IMHO there are basically two kinds of Minis; Mk I/IIs and the rest (based on some basic body parameters).  However, someone once said that Minis are the Mr Potato Heads of cars.  Many bits are mix and match.  The trick is knowing which bits can be used for your car ...at what sort of trouble.  Anything can be used anywhere ... its just that some things are more trouble than they're worth.

Cheers, Ian

https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=12922077806&searchurl=&cmtrack_data=cm_abecat%3D100200047

Don't know if there is a specific book that tells all the differences between years, etc. I have a Mini library at my house, and draw information from several books (along with 41 yrs of Mini ownership). One book comes to mind for your upcoming project: "Guide to Do it Yourself Mini Purchase and Restoration" by Lindsey Porter. This is an older book so I Googled it. What came up was a Haynes manual on restoring Minis which credits Lindsey Porter. Not sure if it's an updated version of the book I have or a condensed version. Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Purchase-Restoration-Lindsay-Porter/dp/1859604404

I'd need to refer to my notes but off the top of my head about a year back I provided a new front sub freshly powder coated, new disc hubs, timken bearings, drive flanges, disc, calipers, dust shields, springs, rebuilt upper arms, new ball joints upper and lower fitted, bump stops, droop stops, Mk2 steering arms, adjustable lower arms with adjustable tie bars, brake hoses and cross over brake line and fittings. Seems to me in the range of $2700.

Edit: forgot Hi-Los w/ new knuckles 

This is no longer a hobby for a teen age boy as I was when I started with my first $300. mini in 68. Steve (CTR)

Yes, that was my assessment as to what I was going to need. I'm sure I could find a running car but part of the fun is the build. Besides, my daughter is 11. We have plenty of time to get this car up and running. Lots to learn for both of us. I've always wanted a mini. I've been a car guy my whole life. I hope my daughter sticks with a project like this until the end. But if she doesn't, I get the mini and she will have learned some life lessons. So the first thing I really need is where to find information. You gents know that those doors won't fit a mk1 and will fit a mk_ from experience. How would I find that information? I've learned a lot from these forums but is there a book or a website that would help?

Well, as a minimum you're gonna need front and rear subframes for a MK1. Not sure what Steve's prices are for built up units, but our host has new, bare rear subframe for $450. That's bare. By the time you add all the components you'll easily double that. Host also has a complete used front subframe with disk brakes for $1000. From the photos it looks rough. To go with all new, the price will be substantially more. So, as a minimum I'd say getting subframes that you can use is gonna add a couple grand on top of the $3800 you're looking at starting this project. By the time you're through, well you get the picture. You might find used parts from individuals much cheaper and do alright. Heck, Steve may even have a good deal on subframes. Bottom line is that what may start out as cheap project can end up costing more than a car you can drive away from the seller and enjoy. Anyway, I think you will pass through Knoxville on your way to look at the car. If you want me to go with you and sort out what's there so you can make an informed decision, please don't hesitate to ask. I offer to do this, but understand that I won't get involved in your price negotiations. Cheers, Hugh

Lol. I thought it looked like tape holding the doors but wasn't sure. As for what subframe I'm looking for, I haven't gotten far enough into the research to know what I want yet. I was just trying to figure out how easy they are to find

Now that was have that all sorted out, what are you looking for in the way of a sub frame? I sent 4 out for powder coating last week. Freshly blasted, powder coated and built up with new springs rebuilt suspension and a choice of static or fully adjustable ride height and suspension settings. Single, twin leading drums or choice of 7, 7.5 or 8,4 disc? With all new parts or correctly rebuilt. Steve (CTR)

I was able to zoom in on a real computer and it may not be the chopped top car after all. Closer look and it may just be lots of electrical tape rapping around the pillars to hold the doors in place. Still think it's a bit overpriced at $3800. Also, it's a big project that will take alot of time and money. Good luck with whatever you do.

If the pillars are that bad then the only way forwards is a roof chop...

Excellent information. Thank you for the insight. I'm no stranger to cutting and welding. This project it a bit more than I thought it was but still fully within my capabilities. As one of the gentlemen said, I can sell the parts that are unusable or unwanted to fund the greater project. I think I'm still going to go take a look at it. If I don't like what I see I will still walk. Now that the add and the pics are out there, keep the info coming. It will help me negotiate a better price. Once again, thank you so much for the great information. I'm learning so much. Every day you learn something is a good day!

But what do you think about this car Steve and Alex, particularly how the roof and doors were chopped and some metal put back in place by someone other than the guy who originally cut it some 20 years ago? I'd be very surprised if any of the glass (other than the rear glass) fits and seals. Thoughts? I just hate to see a newbie take on something like this, throw tons of money, and eventually giving up.

I was a bit reluctant to ask where the car is located. No one wants to get scooped by giving up a location. Looks like you could possibly have saved your self a unhappy 28 hour ride. I have always approached mini buying with an eye to buying the worst car I can find. Having owned and worked on minis since 1968, I have more than a few spares and can do most work myself. This has been a very difficult year for me. Having a core group who did body and rust repair, electrical, interior and one with 9000 sq ft of NOS Lucas pass away has changed how I look at all my projects. 

I'd suggest someone coming into the hobby buy the best car they can afford and move forward from there. Sooner or later you will need deep pockets with a full restoration project. I have a mid 80's Mayfair, nice little car with a few issues. We put it up for sale but it would not quite make the price. The owner decided we should go though and repair as required. Roughly $7000 later we have a mid 80's Mayfair with completely rebuilt tranny, engine, suspension and brakes. The car is very solid with a section of rust bubbles along the scuttle. I want to put a new set of tires on it and it could be driven anywhere. 

This car was a father son project, driven to college then given back to dad. I don't know what age child you have but a driving car with some things to be done would be a lot more fun. I also have a 997 project missing the front sub frame. Also a 72 Inno MK 3 Cooper project needing front floors and the front end. Now that I think of it it needs both subs. Steve (CTR)

$3,800 may be a bit steep, but I'm looking at the car and shell with a British eye instead of an American one, and I'd take the project on.

over here it'd be £2,000 just for the shell...

The pile of treasure that come with it is random, and not all useful, but one man's junk is another man's treasure - what isn't useful or used can be passed on to hlep fund the project.  The engines are all useful, as are the gearboxes, most of which have some early Mk1 bits on them like the transfer housings.  Don't forget, the lowly 998 can easily be made to perform like a stock 1275, and has better reliability.

I'd start my haggle at $2,250 and be prepared to spend many happy/grumpy hours welding & grinding to make something personal - this car will never be concours, but has the potential to be a decent project - but probably not for someone who can't do ALL of the required work themselves...  start paying someone to do the work and it's route one to an abandoned project that needs to be priced high enough to pacifiy "Her Indoors" after years of expenditure that noone will buy it.

I wouldn't touch that with a barge pole, It's just a collection of parts/junk with a shell in needs of LOT'S of work. As said not all the parts are appropriate for an early MKI and what is there doesn't look very good needing a lot of clean up just to discover it's all worn out and no good.
Since this is your first mini save up a bit and be prepared to find a complete running car. mini's are a mine field of different parts for different years, after all they were in production for 41 years! Don't be put off just go in with your eyes wide open and preferably with some one who knows a bit about the subject cars................

Here's the link to the Craigslist ad: https://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/d/1960-classic-mini-cooper/6251063532.html I see 4 small bore engines, one of which has a verto clutch, so it's probably a 998. Looks like one spare MK1 door and 3 late model doors. Two bootlids (not MK1). One radiator with shrouds that's probably original to that car. One radiator is MK3+ and won't easily work in MK1 body. One radiatoris not Mini at all. Still has original early seat frames but no diaphragm or covers. 1 set of later seats which won't easily work in that early body. 4 Dunlop GT wheels but does it have the hard to find lug nuts? Rivitted steel wheels are dangerous, so that's not good. Several crap pieces of grilles, and one original MK1 Morris grille. Does anyone see $3800 worth of stuff here? I'm not seeing it. Thoughts?

I just went and looked up the ad. Looks like it's no longer in Chattanooga but now in the Tricities area. Still the same car I saw before but the new owner has gotten more parts to go with it. Still a bit overpriced in my opinion because I think undoing the roof chop could be a major problem, especially when you get ready to put glass in it. Tha ad says 4 engines but not what they are or if they are useable. Several doors, bonnets, bootlids, etc, but make sure the doors he has that haven't been cut are for a MK1 or MK2 Mini. If they have roll up windows they won't fit. I have no interest in the car but if you want a knowledgeable set of eyes when you go look at it I'd be glad to ride up with you or my sons inlaws are in that area. He might be interested in going up with you. In the end, good luck, and let me know if you need me.

Six pack, someone sent me a photo of the car and I viewed this Mini about 5 years ago. At the time, the A pillars had been cut and the front half of the roof was angled down. It was a mess. The guy who owned it then was named Cory and he had big dreams of VTECing it and leaving the roof and doors chopped. I bought several items from this car. All I can say is that you're going to have a great challenge if you plan on putting it back on the road. Where they have added metal back to the A pillars I'd be really surprised if a windshield will fit. The Mini is way overpriced. If you buy it, it will probably require new doors as well because they were butchered as well. Much better cars around for less money if you're looking for a complete project. Heck, I've got a bodyshell here in Knoxville that you could get for $1000 or less, depending on what all you want to go with it. Give me a shout if you get close to Knoxville. Chattanooga is only 100 miles away. Good luck with whatever you do. Cheers, Hugh. 865-256-5989

Lol. You can go 14 hours from here in any direction and not hit water. 

The car is in Tennessee. It's completely torn apart. I'll be able to inspect most every part of it. The reason I will need subframes is because the car doesn't come with any lol. I'm trying to learn all I can about that model before I go. Any advice on what to look for would be greatly appreciated.