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 Posted: Sep 26, 2017 06:24PM
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I had one years ago as a kid fall out of the differential end when driving aggressively around a roundabout, just pushed it back in and went on my way.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Sep 26, 2017 03:39PM
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It's been a couple of weeks now...any word on what the problem was?

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Sep 19, 2017 06:20AM
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US
Hugh, don't you want to tell us how you really feel? 

I'd think the poster would have found out something by now. Of course with the unpleasant post we get here he may be reluctant to post back. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Sep 17, 2017 03:14AM
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Go somewhere and die troll! You are not wanted here!

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Sep 17, 2017 02:54AM
 Edited:  Sep 17, 2017 03:21AM
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Yes, i agree,check the cv joint as what Dr Mini said, and check the driveshaft teeth, might be worn out too, good luck mate.

 Posted: Sep 16, 2017 04:19PM
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When it happened to me it was the CV joint at the hub. CV joints have a circular cupped out area where the balls reside. As you apply power the axle rotates along with the balls. Over time the perfectly round cup becomes oblong on the leading edge. At a certain amount of wear the balls (under power/stress) tend to pop out of the CV joint. Once that happens the axle spins freely in the CV joint but makes a lot of racket. Seems to happen most often on hard turns, but happened to me on a straight away. Speedometer still acts like you are moving even though you aren't.

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Sep 16, 2017 03:28PM
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CA
For those of us yet to experience this 'axle/cv joint separation' can someone clarify if this is at the diff end or wheel end, and by cv joint, are you referring to a 'pot joint', please?
Also, it would be helpful to know in basic terms how it is repaired - can it be popped back together or are significant parts needed?

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 16, 2017 06:07AM
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GB

It does happen - Suzy did it on Tigger twice.

First time was slow speed on full lock reversing out of a parking space, second time was doing doughnuts in a muddy field...

 Posted: Sep 16, 2017 02:58AM
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US
I sure hope it is as simple as a CV/axle issue. I have been working on, owning and driving them coming up on 50 years and have never had this issue. The CV/ axle issue, so I'd not think of it myself. I'm sure when it happens if it ever does I'd catch it before pulling the power unit. Well I'd like to think I would. No intention to miss lead. Steve (CTR)

PS, Mal I sure hope you guys found high ground.

 Posted: Sep 15, 2017 01:45PM
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Probably a CV joint. I did have a pinion nut come loose on a gearbox i had re built before shipping here had the same effect but no grinding.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Sep 15, 2017 12:25PM
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GB
Quote:
Originally Posted by specialist
You have a bad Syncro... need replacement
You have a bad brain... need replacement.

 Posted: Sep 15, 2017 03:41AM
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CA
"lost power on a tight bend" is another clue

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 15, 2017 01:01AM
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+1 for driveshaft coming out happened to me not so long ago .

 Posted: Sep 14, 2017 06:30AM
mur
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It sure sounds like a driveshaft popped out of a CV joint, as Dr. mini suggested.

Tony/Robster/Specialist: wrong as always.

 Posted: Sep 14, 2017 05:27AM
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Are you sure it's the gearbox? I'd look at the CV joints first to see if that's what failed. Does the speedometer still register speed when you press on the throttle even though it's not moving? If so, it's the CV joints. Much easier and cheaper fix than transmission.

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Sep 14, 2017 03:54AM
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US
The late trannys ( DAM 5626 ) it seems were assembled with what ever was on the shelf. Three of the last five I have worked on have had serious large ball bearing issues. The plastic ball spacers break up and all the balls fall to one side allowing the main shaft to run off center. When it gets bad enough the gear teeth start popping off. The other issue all mini trannys suffer from is the diff. pin and spider gears. I have also had my share of broken spider gears and even the pins break apart. Either will end drive. Either issue can possibly trash the tranny case beyond reuse. I have had a couple of the DAM 5626 units that were so bad I was not comfortable reusing any parts to include the speedo drives. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Sep 14, 2017 01:54AM
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You have a bad Syncro... need replacement

 Posted: Sep 14, 2017 01:37AM
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Hi people,

I just finished my mini 1992 Mini Cooper HIF44 restoration and got it through it's MOT

While driving home from the technical visit, my second gear clonked out and I lost drive (on a tight bend), finding no power, no drive and a nose of grinding coming from the gearbox... :-(

I can engage all the gears into their shifts, clutch pressure and clutch arm is moving correctly and hydraulic pressure is as usual, but when while in any gear engaged I release the clutch, all I get is a nose of grinding but no drive.

Obviously, I need to knock the engine out and trouble shoot my gearbox, but I was wondering if the forum could recommend where I should start looking and "trial & test" first?

I'm guessing that either my diff has gone or my crankshaft gear (woodruff key gave up) but asking for any other guesses?