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 Posted: Sep 26, 2017 08:29AM
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Ok. That makes sense. The other research I did last night said you could narrow it down by how the engine is set up. U-joints b CV joints, remote or magic wand shifter etc. The engine that's in pieces is an 1098. I was hoping to find that it had a head that would allow me to run unleaded gas to but in the end it doesn't matter because that head needs to be machined. I'll just have them convert it over at that point. still more research to do

 Posted: Sep 26, 2017 08:08AM
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GB
There is no way - the engine number is only good if the engine and gearbox haven't been dismantled or modified. The engine you showed originally looks pretty intact and untouched, and I'd bet the internals match the tag.

Smallbore or bigbore is all you really need to know.

 Posted: Sep 26, 2017 05:15AM
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What's the best way to determine the year of an engine? I'm trying to figure out exactly what the other engines are. One of them in all torn apart and the block tsk is, of course, missing. 

 Posted: Sep 24, 2017 06:23PM
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thank you for the info. That is the engine I'm planning on using in the car. I was going to clean up the other engines and sell them to fund the build. I have a lot of parts I don't need. Hopefully I'll have some time to sort through what I have this week and put together an inventory o what I have and what I need. 

 Posted: Sep 24, 2017 04:58AM
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US
You ask if this is good. The little 998 s are tough if well taken care of. In 2000 an airman at the local Air Force base had returned from the UK. His mid 80 s mini was to new and rusty to bring back. He removed the glass, interior with gauge cluster seats and cards. he also brought the subs, wheels and tires as well as the power unit. His plan was to buy a shell and swap his parts over. Instead he bought a complete car and sold me the parts stash. He felt the speedo was correct at 78,000 miles. I replaced the water pump and by pass hose. Removed the timing cover and replaced chain, tensioner and seal. Tappet cover gaskets, valve cover gasket, diff. output seals and shifter seal. Changed the oil and plugs got OP before replacing plugs and installed in my project. Son Alex and I put nearly 100,000 miles on that unit before a bad by pass hose caused a over heat on a 20 degree day. Only issue I had was the coil went bad as well as the wax stat jet. Both showed up as a rich running condition.

Having some information about the unit and knowing it had been running in the past six months was a help in deciding not to rebuild it completely. And yes I painted it that ugly yellow. Steve (CTR) 

 Posted: Sep 23, 2017 10:23AM
 Edited:  Sep 24, 2017 08:22AM
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US
I've wondered about the "Alternative compression ratio" on the microfiche. (Yes, they are a big help, but mine run out in the mid-80s.) I'd take a guess that it means that it is the low compression engine as used in places with even crappier gas then we get now days. The earlier cars used an H to indicate "High compression" when it really was standard in almost all of the cars. If I remember correctly, an L was used for low compression.

 Posted: Sep 23, 2017 06:49AM
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GB
Put it in and see if it works.
It's a solid workhorse that will see you right while you spend time and money on other things.

 Posted: Sep 22, 2017 01:39PM
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My info must have been wrong. I have a printout for the late 90s internet that came with the car. That's where I found what I thought I knew. So even though it's not a metro engine, is it still good? A head that allows unleaded gas is definitely good. Does alternative compression ratio mean higher or lower? 
Thank you for the info. I have a better way forward now. 

 Posted: Sep 22, 2017 07:22AM
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US
Thanks Alex, I was going on his research guess I should have done my own. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Sep 22, 2017 06:20AM
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GB
It's a Mini engine and not a Metro one.

99HE20 = ADO20 design (1984-on), Alternative compression ratio, 3.105 FD, std ratio gearbox, pre-engaged starter, brake servo fitted, and finally but most crucially - 1989 model year with an unleaded head.

Gotta love a microfiche

 Posted: Sep 22, 2017 03:23AM
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US
I think there is a lot more to Metro 998 trannys than meets the eye. Good news, the 5626 tranny was the last generation case as designed to reduce breakage under the Metro Turbos. Also good news if the tranny has always lived under a 998. They don't make enough power or torque to damage the gears if not mistreated. There are some with the extra wide ratio gear set and perhaps O/D drop gears. All these gears have markings so once in you can figure out what you have. It is possible to place tranny in 4 th and mark the front pulley rotate engine counting revs and counting pot joint revs and figure out fairly close what is in there. 

I loose track but if you have an early car with the floor push button start and want to fit the rod change shifter depending on who does your exhaust things will get crowded under there.  

As for the 998 engine it's self they can be built from mild to wild. I have done a few and look forward to doing more. Having 5 1275 s under way now 998 builds will have to wait. I understand your wanting to do this all your self. If you find you need help just let me know. I still have 3 gears sets complete with rebuild parts to include COP, forks, bearings and shafts looking for good cases. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Sep 21, 2017 05:10PM
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That's good!

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Sep 21, 2017 03:43PM
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Exactly right it's DAM5626. Is that good or bad? ??

 Posted: Sep 21, 2017 11:19AM
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Could be anywhere from mid 80s to about 94. What's the casting numbers on the transmission? DAM5626?

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Sep 21, 2017 11:04AM
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What year are we talking here? What's the A+ mean? Where's the best place to find info on this engine as far as what I came in, hp specs and repair info? I'll be rebuilding it to put in the car. 

 Posted: Sep 21, 2017 10:47AM
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Yes, that's the engine I thought of in the photos. It's a later model 998 A+ with rod change transmission. It also has a verto clutch. These are important when ordering parts. Keep in mind it's very hard if not impossible to use that 1 piece fan shroud on a MK1 Mini. MK1 Minis have a metal box attached to the inner fender which will get in the way if you ever need to remove the fan. Something to think about.

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Sep 21, 2017 10:29AM
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Image Gallery
Not sure if that worked but here's pics of the engine

 Posted: Sep 20, 2017 05:55PM
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I didn't stop by on my way through because we were in a race with the storm. As it was, we barely got out ahead of it. We just didn't have time to stop. As far as questions, I'm learning them as I go. I feel I am experienced enough to know the scope of the project. It's just the ins and outs of the specific vehicle. I'm on the Internet every spare second learning everything I can. I'm still trying to find time inventory everything the car came with. 
Ill get a pics of the engine and post them here, maybe tomorrow.

 Posted: Sep 20, 2017 04:32PM
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In the original photo of parts, one of the engines looked to be an A+ 998 with a Verto clutch. I imagine this is the unit you speak of. A goo close up photo of the front of the engine and gearbox would help. Sure wish you'd stopped by on your way through and I could've answered some of your questions. Still, glad to see you asking for help with stuff. This will lesson your headaches later.

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Sep 20, 2017 02:41PM
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So I have an engine I'm trying to find info on and it proving to he harder than I expected. The data plate says 99HE20 125397. From this I figured out that it's out of a metro and it's a 998cc engine but I can't find anything other than that. Where do I find parts info etc. I don't even know what year it was built. Any help would be appreciated as always.