Disappointing power
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Sep 23, 2017 08:31PM | maj4479 | |
Sep 23, 2017 07:39AM | kolsen | |
Sep 23, 2017 06:48AM | Alex | |
Sep 23, 2017 04:32AM | Dan Moffet | |
Sep 22, 2017 07:51PM | specialist | Edited: Sep 22, 2017 08:33PM |
Sep 22, 2017 04:47PM | Spank | |
Sep 22, 2017 03:57PM | Dan Moffet | |
Sep 22, 2017 09:11AM | Alex | |
Sep 22, 2017 07:33AM | kolsen | |
Sep 21, 2017 08:33AM | Spank | |
Sep 21, 2017 08:23AM | Minimike1 | |
Sep 21, 2017 08:02AM | kolsen |
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I think you need to rip out your interior to save on weight... (I made myself giggle right there.) Don't actually rip out your interior, maybe the current owner of "Murph" will chime in why?
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Taken her to an autox today in Salem and then will run up to Portland to watch some club members run their cars on a dyno tomorrow.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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just drop a modern engine inside your engine bay and you'll be happy, i tellya.
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So it's a 1380... whoopie... what's the rest of the spec ??
A 1380 with a standard head and cam won't magically produce 130whp...
Twin 1-1/4"s have less orifice than a 1-1/2" carb, so are actually strangling it - put a 1-3/4" carb on, and while the bling factor is reduced, the power will go up.
The numbers you quote aren't actually all that bad (assumign the road is accurate) as a helical driveline will lose you 20-25% of the power.
A single carb is also a lot easier to tune.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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So it's a 1380... whoopie... what's the rest of the spec ??
A 1380 with a standard head and cam won't magically produce 130whp...
Twin 1-1/4"s have less orifice than a 1-1/2" carb, so are actually strangling it - put a 1-3/4" carb on, and while the bling factor is reduced, the power will go up.
The numbers you quote aren't actually all that bad (assumign the road is accurate) as a helical driveline will lose you 20-25% of the power.
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Timing is everything. If you're timing isn't right, you're leaving free hp untapped. The dyno operator mentioned above told me that every mini he has ever done makes its max hp at virtually the same timing +/1 a degree or two. He sets it at 28 degrees maximum advance with no vacuum advance hooked up. I was skeptical and had a 123 distributer and wanted to try a different advance curve after he got what he thought was optimal timing and fueling. He said "it's your money" and that differences in curves and whether or not to use vacuum advance is all part of "the butt dyno" and can be done for free while I drive it. I went ahead and spent the $ to try another curve and while it gained 2 ftlbs of torque, it lost 2 hp. "I told ya so... How much money you got? Want to try another?" we put it back to the previous setting and left it there. Haven't touched the timing or the fueling since and have abused the hell out of the motor.
It was 89.somethin' hp at the wheels for a +.060 1275 using 21253 pistons with some sort of a longman head using 1.4, 1.15 valves and a spvp3 cam on 92octane pump gas. He said it was "basically 100hp at the flywheel".
I wish he still did dyno work. Dave Evans of Evanspeed mobile dyno service here in SoCal. Best money I ever spent.
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Well I finally got it on a chassis dyno this summer and the numbers were no what I expected. At the wheels the power came out to 69HP and 75 FT/LBS torque at 5500RPM. This was about 1PM on an 80DEG day.
Even figuring 15% driveline loss and the temperature, it's less than I expected. It was advertised as a 1380 and has dual 1.25 SU carbs.