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 Posted: Sep 23, 2017 08:31PM
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Dad was never really interested in what kind of power the '59 mini with a 1380cc produced.  It was all about the SPG smiles per gallon.  Even with that car, we got hey is that electric as we would be filling it up at the gas station.  
I think you need to rip out your interior to save on weight...  (I made myself giggle right there.)  Don't actually rip out your interior, maybe the current owner of "Murph" will chime in why?

 Posted: Sep 23, 2017 07:39AM
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I'm actually pretty happy with it.  I have six webers on my Porsche so tuning multi-carbs is no problem.  I checked for any vacuum leaks on the throttle shafts and they were good.  As I said it had 195-200lbs on the compression check and has a loppy idle so there might be something in there. It shifts great and turns about 3800 rpm at 60 so probably has a lower final drive, which makes it quick.

Taken her to an autox today in Salem and then will run up to Portland to watch some club members run their cars on a dyno tomorrow.

 Posted: Sep 23, 2017 06:48AM
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GB
Dan, he knows that... you're feeding the troll again...

 Posted: Sep 23, 2017 04:32AM
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CA
Even an 850 can do a cross country trip in stock form, if in good condition and properly prepared, and no, a 1380 42is not just a noise-maker.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 22, 2017 07:51PM
 Edited:  Sep 22, 2017 08:33PM
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Can a 1380cc do a cross country roadtrip? or is it just a loud engine that drives around town and that says to people,"hey guys,look at me  i'm loud and powerful,but overheats when driven for hours" .

just drop a modern engine inside your engine bay and you'll be happy, i tellya.

 Posted: Sep 22, 2017 04:47PM
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yea, I should ad that my 89 at the wheels on the dyno was with a single HIF44 carb with a minispares alloy manifold (unmodified), a maniflow stage 2 lcb, and a K&N cone filter with an in-filter stub stack of unknown origin)

 Posted: Sep 22, 2017 03:57PM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex

So it's a 1380... whoopie... what's the rest of the spec ??
A 1380 with a standard head and cam won't magically produce 130whp...

Twin 1-1/4"s have less orifice than a 1-1/2" carb, so are actually strangling it - put a 1-3/4" carb on, and while the bling factor is reduced, the power will go up.

The numbers you quote aren't actually all that bad (assumign the road is accurate) as a helical driveline will lose you 20-25% of the power.

I didn't know that....
A single carb is also a lot easier to tune.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 22, 2017 09:11AM
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GB

So it's a 1380... whoopie... what's the rest of the spec ??
A 1380 with a standard head and cam won't magically produce 130whp...

Twin 1-1/4"s have less orifice than a 1-1/2" carb, so are actually strangling it - put a 1-3/4" carb on, and while the bling factor is reduced, the power will go up.

The numbers you quote aren't actually all that bad (assumign the road is accurate) as a helical driveline will lose you 20-25% of the power.

 Posted: Sep 22, 2017 07:33AM
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All I asked from the dyno guy was three pulls to give me a baseline.  Had a new distributor and coil put in at Jet Motors so I'll have to call them and see what they think.

 Posted: Sep 21, 2017 08:33AM
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Hopefully the dyno operator tried different needles, jet adjustments and adjusted timing to maximize what you've got. I had a motor that I built go up 16hp just from timing and fueling from a dyno operator who knew minis and SU carbs. He ended up customizing a needle.

Timing is everything. If you're timing isn't right, you're leaving free hp untapped. The dyno operator mentioned above told me that every mini he has ever done makes its max hp at virtually the same timing +/1 a degree or two. He sets it at 28 degrees maximum advance with no vacuum advance hooked up. I was skeptical and had a 123 distributer and wanted to try a different advance curve after he got what he thought was optimal timing and fueling. He said "it's your money" and that differences in curves and whether or not to use vacuum advance is all part of "the butt dyno" and can be done for free while I drive it. I went ahead and spent the $ to try another curve and while it gained 2 ftlbs of torque, it lost 2 hp. "I told ya so... How much money you got? Want to try another?" we put it back to the previous setting and left it there. Haven't touched the timing or the fueling since and have abused the hell out of the motor.

It was 89.somethin' hp at the wheels for a +.060 1275 using 21253 pistons with some sort of a longman head using 1.4, 1.15 valves and a spvp3 cam on 92octane pump gas. He said it was "basically 100hp at the flywheel".

I wish he still did dyno work. Dave Evans of Evanspeed mobile dyno service here in SoCal. Best money I ever spent.

 Posted: Sep 21, 2017 08:23AM
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US
tune it.

 Posted: Sep 21, 2017 08:02AM
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After I bought my Mini a couple years ago as I was going thru it I did a compression check.  I had 195-200lbs on each cylinder so I though it might have a little more horsepower than stock.

Well I finally got it on a chassis dyno this summer and the numbers were no what I expected.  At the wheels the power came out to 69HP and 75 FT/LBS torque at 5500RPM.  This was about 1PM on an 80DEG day.

Even figuring 15% driveline loss and the temperature, it's less than I expected.  It was advertised as a 1380 and has dual 1.25 SU carbs.