Cooper "Deluxe"....? 

Boot pic.

By all accounts, this is a Cooper Deluxe with the numbers.  Not the original engine.  Looks like a 22G1128 gearbox.  I primed the engine and got 65PSI oil pressure today.  Started the car for 3 seconds on ether.  I put in a different started motor, new selenoid and rebuild distributor.  Even the fuel pump ticks over.  The gas tank has lots of varnish in it.  Removed the tank.  I plan on soaking lacquer thinner in the tank to removed the varnish.  The carb needle is all rusted and trashed.  I need a new needle and carb rebuild kit for the HIF6.  The it should be good to start.  I am not going to rebuild the motor since it was done just a few hundred miles ago, I do not have time.  Next I will try to pump up the hydro-spastic system.  The pipes underneath are rusted.  I likely need new ones.  I also need to redo the brakes.  Then tackle the bodywork and floors or sell the car.  Lots of work for sure.  I have to more Minis plus other British cars as well.  I will keep you all posted.

Dogscarf

Is this a Cooper with a later fitted engine
or a Cooper S
title says Cooper...... so I asummed a Cooper... not S

If this is a real 1275 Cooper (thin flange, side covers, 12 (11?) bolt head), then don't risk damaging the cylinders trying to start it like you are trying to get one more winter out of an old beater.

The car will need a total restoration anyway, so treat the motor nice and take it apart to make sure all inside of it is good first, then start it!

It will be worth a fortune once fully restored, if it is a real Cooper, and if the engine is original.  



N

Try like Mike suggested....read up on priming the pump.

That interior looks in good shape....valuable comodity.

The wheels....appear to be reverse wheels not regular 4.5" S

OK, indeed it was the ground.  I took it for granted that it already had a ground.  Slapped a new one on.  Engine spins over freely with the starter motor and plugs out.  Still no oil pressure.  I wonder if the gauge is ok or not.  I could install another gauge.  It is mechanical however, hard to think that it would be bad.  I may try priming the oil from the front.

Dogscarf

Sweet! Congratulations. I think I saw you heading North on I43 as I was going South from work at Kohler. 

Good point on the engine ground.  I will double check.  I have turned the engine over with the car in gear.  The old oil was pristine, under the valve cover was pure bright steel, absolutely perfect.  Plugs out, tested starters prior to install.  Marvel Mystery Oil on the tops of the pistons.

Dogscarf

Everything Minimike1 said plus check to see if the engine assy is properly grounded. Might seem like too simple of a solution but a bad ground (missing?) can cause just what you are describing.

Carry on ... 

before you do anything else.  Pull the starter and plugs and with a big screwdriver try turning the engine over by hand on the flywheel
teeth. One tooth at a time.  If this engine has sat a long time, I'd drain the oil and put in 2 quarts of diesel and reuse your new oil.   (this will blow out when you try to crank it on the starter later, so remember to put a rag over the engine or you'll paint the ceiling with diesel.

let it sit for a few days and then try turning it.   Meanwhile you can bench test your starters on a battery or charger.

You should build oil pressure before you attempt to run the engine.  Read up on filling the oil pump from the front of the engine and turning the engine by hand to prime the pump.



Once you can turn the engine, crank it with a starter w/o plugs. it should spin freely with no compression. You want to build oil pressure.
75 lbs is great.  Then you can put the plugs in and try running it.

Fellow Minioids,  Just picked up a barn fresh 1965 Mini Cooper.  albeit a little rusty, it is definitely restorable.  It came with a 1275 with over $6000 in receipts.  The front floors need replacing as does the battery box.  Anyway,  the engine has gold oil in it after 15 years.  I changed it and cranked it over.  New battery, new battery terminals.  The starter motor is dead.  Threw in one of my old ones.  Still would not crank.  New selenoid.  No cranking over.  Battery charger on the battery.  Still no power to the starter.  I am dumbfounded.  It must be somewhere in the power cable from the battery to the selenoid.  It must be shorted and losing power there.  I tried to crank with a higher amp battery charger directly to the starter, it spin some, but did not engage.  Maybe I need to try a third starter motor.  Thoughts?

Dogscarf.

1965 Austin Mini Deluxe
1967 Morris Mini Cooper S Aussie
1968 Morris Mini Cooper S