Just used my meter at the hazard switch and no power coming to the switch. Other switches in the cluster of rocker switches are getting power so will start working back towards fuse box (style with four glass fuses). Mini it titled 1970 but engine, with fuel injection and other mechanical features looks to be closer to early 90's.

The indicator flasher unit may be wired through the hazard switch, but it doesn't actually do anything there - the supply for the hazards is fused permanant live (via the hazard flasher), while the indicators are fused off the ignition.  Each circuit is capable of working independantly of the other.  Exercising the switch excessively is a vain hope imho...

The flasher units don't need an earth.

I would not look for a ground problem since both the turn signals and hazards are not working.  Each lamp has its own unique ground connection, neither flasher (hazard or turn signal) has its own ground connection.  

Check individually that all the indicator bulbs are "OK" and not burned out.  The standard hazard/turn signal flashers are thermo relays.  They expect a certain amount of current to flow to heat the flasher and make it start switching.  Burn out all the bulbs and/or use too low a wattage bulb and the flasher will not work.  Make sure your bulbs are not burned out and that they have the correct wattage.

You do need to confirm that you have 12V at the input to the hazard switch.  If you don't have 12V there, you won't have hazards or flashers.  Lack of 12V may be a wire or fuse box problem as Bill suggests.  However, dig out your multimeter and wiring diagram.  Make some quick tests before you spend any money on any parts and/or start swapping parts out.  Don't do this arbitrarily.  Review the wiring diagram for your car so you can make measurements where you need to.

I don't think anyone has asked yet.  What year is your Mini?

riverbend.. I would start by just buying new fuse box.. and new switches... only a few quid from the UK.. and maybe new turn signal stalk.. later bc

Will do your suggestion. Since everything is out (all four turn signals, repeater lights & emergency flasher) ground issue would seem to be between switch by steering wheel and fuse box. Thanks

+1.  Work the hazard switch a lot.  

Turn signal power passes THRU the hazard switch.  You said that the hazards and turn signals weren't working.  That says power is not getting through the hazard switch.  It's common for the hazard switch terminals to develop a patina or scuzz that prevents passing current.  Cycling the switch sometimes clears/cleans its contacts.

Also, as MiniMike1 said, you should make sure you have power going into the hazard switch.

That type is quite fussy about orientation and the flasher unit used - it's normally a round one, and has to dangle with the wires uppermost.

trace the circuits.  Use a meter set on resistance. Put on your turn signal and take the bulb out  and check the socket to see if you got juice.  Work from the bulb backwards to the switch/ signal stalk.  Same with 4 ways.  You can start at the switch on each of these cause if you have not juice in, obviously no juice out. Go from the switch to the fuse box.  I think you'll find a bad ground(s). Put a star washer under the ground wires , and clean the lugs so you get good conductivity.

I will try anything. This is on my list for the morning to try. THANKS....

The flasher was tucked in behind some carpeting just below the dash. Will move it out so that it can dangle. I am up to trying anything because all things that I have tried on my own have not worked.

Turn the hazard switch on and off at least 25 times. Rocking it back and forth. If it doesn't work, do it again until it does. This is not a joke.

Which sort of flasher unit have you fitted, and where is it situated in the car ?

Dpending on age, some of them need to dangle down under the dash in an unsightly fashion to work, tuck them up and they won't.

bad ground

Thanks, will check it out.

Thanks. Had not thought about the back of the fuse box but did remove a lot of green oxide from the terminals in the fuse box. Will order a new one tonight. In addition there never was a cover on the fuse box which probably allowed faster corrosion.

Check that the cotter pin on the clutch arm is not shorting out the brake switch 

Those fuse boxes are notorious for causing this problem. What you don't see is that the back of it is open to the elements, the fuse-holding clips are riveted in the back to the terminals the wires connect to, and they get corroded, Being brass, the green oxide does not conduct well and this problem crops up, first intermittently and then more and more. Good news is that these boxes are not expensive and are easily replaced - just transfer the wires one at a time, then remove the old box and fasten the new one in its place. Some people recommend replacing the box with a new one for modern blade-style fuses, but that's more work.

Front and rear turn signals, repeater lights and emergency flasher do not work. All worked last week. Checked all fuses, cleaned terminals at fuse box (4 fuse box on firewall in engine), checked inline fuses and replaced flasher. What am I missing? Had some other electrical issues which are now all fixed but apparently did something or caused problem on turn signals. Any ideas to try?