Looks like the front brakes are the problem, the brake adjuster screw located on the upper part (the one hard to reach is very wear out) I has not able to move it that much, the lower one I was able to adjust it.

Can the upper adjuster screw be replace or fixed, how? Thanks

Matthew, you're all over the road (pun) again.

You start by ridiculing disc's "this idea of discs being a "must have" with a 1275 can be silly" and you close by cuddling them "if funds were readily available, I would purchase discs".

Not knocking you (though you'll take it like that no doubt as usual) but just confused.

As I'm sure someone has said above...it's very important (besides everything being in top notch order) for the brakes to be adjusted properly.  If your backs aren't adjusted properly...you'll have excessive pedal travel.

Twin leading are great when in good order, they will stop you on a dime.  Disc brakes (7.5" or 8.4' are a better choice in the big picture.
I have had to emergency brake a few times (on drums), and avoided incident effectively.
Sure, I have to adjust, maintain them regularly to obtain this efficiency...part of being a MINI owner.
I solo race my car with drums on front.......a relatively short track mind you....and the brakes are more than adequate.  A longer course and I'm sure they would fade to shyte.
NA muscle cars used to use drums on front (with discs an option), and they are a little heavier than a classic MINI.
A 1275 with drums is fine also...this idea of discs being a "must have" with a 1275 can be silly.  You can get a 998 going as quick as a 1275......the cars weigh the same and need the same stopping power.  A 998 needs discs as much as a 1275....even an 850, all would benifit from the lack of regular adjustments needed.
If you're driving like a race car driver most the time, whether in a 998, 1275 or 850....then disc's will benefit you.  If you drive with some spirit (not alcohol) on occassion, drums (twin) are fine with a 1275 thru 850 etc.....

All that being said.....even though drums are fine...if funds were readily available, I would purchase discs.

A FATHER CARRIES PICTURES WHERE HIS MONEY USED TO BE 

1130cc, 12g295, SW5 cam, LCB, HIF38, CA spec.

Make sure the hydraulic and cable systems are both bedded in as you bleed and adjust.

I'm not familiar enough with the models to know if your '73 had one cable or two to the rear shoes for the handbrake. First, adjust the rear brakes so that the wheels just turn. Then adjust the handbrake by tightening the cable(s) so that the handbrake locks up the rear wheels when engaged to the third click. THEN give the cable to each rear wheel (the cables actuate the handbrake - the real brakes are hydraulic) some good tugs, and then adjust the brakes again. You may be surprised at the additional adjustment you can make now that the shoes are seated, so that, again, the wheels just turn.

Then bleed the system if still necessary, and if your master cylinder and wheel cylinders are ok, you should have good solid brakes. My own "soft pedal" was solved with the handbrake adjustment and rear wheel adjustments described above.

Then bleed the system, starting with wheel furthest from the master and proceeding. After all that, if you still have a soft pedal, you need to look at the brake master cylinder, and the brake wheel cylinders. You can hone them and kit them, or you can replace them.

As said before, drums should give you stopping power close enough to disks, just not as much on multiple hard stops (such as in racing.) In normal driving, fixing all the above should give you predictably good stops until you can afford to convert to disks, which in the long run is a better set-up, not only for safety and stopping power, but lower maintenance.

DLY

Once a month I get Sir Lancelot of the floor and supported on jack stands. I then spend two days meandaring under there, tightening (if necessary, lubing, oiling, etc).

No room for second guess when you're elbows to a semi trucks hubcaps on the freeway at 90mph.

"Sorry, Jedi mind tricks don't work on retards"-Retarded Policeman mediocre films

If you have dual circuit brakes, the shuttle may have operated isolating on a circuit. This can happen if you're a bit heavy footed with the bleeding.

When you bleed, do you get a good flow out of all nipples ? If not see above, or maybe a collapsed flexy hose.

Minis can be a cow to bleed esp the back section. Where the brake pipe goes up and over the rear subframe, an air pocket often gets trapped. Sometimes you have to jack the back of the car as HIGH as poss to flush the air out. Stand it on its nose if you can.

Check your brake hydraulics for trapped air. Minis are touchy when it comes to getting out all the air. If you press the brake sevreal times in a row, does it imrpove & begin to stop it's travel higher off the floor?

If all is adjusted correctly, including the emergency brake cable (3 to 4 clicks off the floor), then check the master cylinder for leaks or wear on the fork and clevis pin.

Make it idiot proof, and someone will make a better idiot....

Yes, trucks have drum brakes like Minis. And elephants also have noses like people. Just not the same....Mini shoes are small diameter and narrow.

With Mini drums -even twin leading- everything needs to be optimal to be anywhere near what discs can do with little/no maintenance. FADE is a big problem. So the faster you are going, the less is your ability to stop right at the end of your hoped-for decelleration. Don't even think you'll get two consecutive panic stops out of them - you'll be sadly disappointed. If you can afford discs, get them. Otherwise, replace your brake components with new stuff (everything) and keep them clean and adjusted snugly. And allow some extra room to stop......

Make it idiot proof, and someone will make a better idiot....

They sure do, unfortunately. That they use drum brakes has to have other reasons that the best system.

They are all lined up and down cajon pass doing break checks and they don't typically haul ass like regular cars and called to make repeated emergency stops liek small cars.