It’s criminal. Folk spend fortunes putting together super-sonic motors, only to skimp on the oil they use. Why? Oil’s oil right? Wrong. Even if it’s a standard engine, it deserves TLC considering it's extremely hostile working environment.

The correct running temperature of the oil is perhaps even more important than the water/coolant temperatures - so let us consider how to control them. Mainly because it seems to be the most misunderstood of the whole process, and oil cooler fitment almost a reflex when over-heating occurs where a tuned engine of any type is concerned. And in many cases on standard production road cars for that matter.

Pistons - Mega piston performance report The two other articles I have done on this site concerned what pistons are all about, different design and construction pros and cons, material specs, ring set-ups and so on. Under 'Pistons - Favourable features for maximum performance' it would seem that th...

This simply guide will help you identify your Mini or Metro engine when original serial numbers are still in place. A word of warning - whilst the data given here is as accurate and complete as I could make it without 6 months-worth of hermit-like investigation, there are bound to be oddities. Austin/Morris, BL/Austin Rover Group/Rover were never dedicated at keeping 100% correct records, particularly post 1970 - that's why Heritage really struggle with trying to identify cars manufactured after 1969. The Metro data - or lack of it - proves the point. It's nothing like as comprehensive as the Mini stuff.

Below is a list of crankshaft identification data by forging or stamped numbers - yes, contrary to what many say/express, all cranks are forged. None are cast. They wouldn't last 2 minutes in an engine if they were cast - they'd be way too brittle. The differences are in the material used,...

If you have the engine tag still attached to the engine - just in front/below the thermostat housing - or perhaps the original engine number in the log book then the following should help you determine which engine you have. For Metro units, see 'Engine - Metro identification data'.

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I know I have taken pains to explain that you don't have to have a 1380cc with very sporty cam profile and so on to have a decent, satisfyingly quick road car - but this reliability problem is absolute hogwash.

Some folk have tried the suggestions regarding lowering induction charge temperatures - and have been astonished at the results. Others have got the wrong end of the stick, and found a myriad of problems. So here's a quick trip through what it's all about to add real on-track performance at a modest outlay.

The 1098 (1100) engine has had a lot of bad press over the years - largely because of early experiences when trying to tune the motor brought about problems with the then standard components available - they simply were not up to taking any real punishment as experienced in racing.

Following on from the easily bolted on performance enhancing components out-lined in the stage one section, we need to consider where to go to get more power output.

The 998cc engine is a very robust and tunable unit. It is also the most common engine found in standard Minis. Despite the lure of the much-advertised 1380cc alternatives, many simply want to get a little more from what they have at reasonable outlay.

Essential to the well being of every engine is its oil pump and oil. Much in the same way as the heart and blood is deemed relatively important to us humans! It’s also another of those greatly misunderstood and, unfortunately, misrepresented subjects connected to engines.

This is another of those subjects that crops up on the message board frequently. I am constantly surprised by the number of engine builders - or people who charge other folk for building engines at any rate - that never hand out such an information sheet. It seems pretty daft to me that having taken a wad of money off of a customer for an engine you've lovingly put together, you'd want to help that person get the very best out of the engine.

Great leaps forward in technology since the Mini’s inception have been constantly applied to all forms of automotive applications. The Mini flywheel and pressure plate are no exceptions. If for no other reason than weight reduction - an admirable one considering the effects it can have.

If there's one subject that gets washed over when transplants or modifications are discussed its the flywheel and clutch assembly. There also seems to be a widely held belief that up-rating an engine from anything other than standard automatically requires a ‘competition clutch’. This, as with many other subjects concerning the Mini, is a myth.

The advent of ECU-equipped fuel injection saw the need for a trigger system to provide the ECU with information on engine speed and piston position. In their infinite wisdom, Rover decided to fit a reluctor ring into the rear of the already humungous iron flywheel section. Identical in all aspects to the non-injection flywheel except for this reluctor ring and the raised ridge it is fitted into.

How does this affect performance? Not as many folk believe, that’s for sure. For a start, lightweight flywheel/clutch assemblies don’t necessarily give rough running at idle, particularly where a performance cam is used.

With the exception of the fact the two-piece flywheel is two pieces bolted together - this and the later one-piece cast item can be treated as the same thing. They will universally fit all transverse engine cranks from 1964 onwards, so that should be easy enough. If all you can get is the hulking great 1300 type, then this too is as universal to fit, but I highly recommend you get that extra cast lump machined off of the outer edge as a bare minimum.

There is only one version of this flywheel as standard, and fits all A+, Verto or Valeo (same type, different manufacturer) installations. And it’s heavy. Very heavy. Those up-rating power outputs in later Minis bearing this set-up were stuck with it. It is possible to shave a few ounces off this chunk of iron, but is difficult - especially for the DIY-er - and not cost effective when paying to have it done.

Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap. If using the AA/1300GT unit - it's advisable to cut off the 'wings' on the front plate that carried the engine mounts on the radiator end.

If you’ve decided the FD fitted isn’t what you want, changing the FD is possible without separating the engine from the gearbox. Removing the diff case will allow you access to the diff assembly to change the crown-wheel, and access to the gear-change linkage.

To go in to all the possible permutations would take a few chapters on it’s own. Suffice to say that the Metro had a few weirdo fitments such as cable operation, an in-line ‘damper’ (some got fitted to Minis too - eek), and ‘top-hat’ plunger and rod bearing operation. The Mini only has two -

Assembling the engine to gearbox (transmission) is explained and simplified in this article. Contrary to popular mis-guidance, all BBUs will fit all four-syncro gearboxes. It was only the three-syncro boxes that varied in casting dimensions causing hassles where 1275s were applied to 850/998 gearbox casings. The longer throw and bigger crank and rod assembly dimensions fouled the sculpted areas in the gearbox case,

Is this familiar? - You take the small one out; you put the big one in. In, out, in, out, shake your fist about, you do the hokey-cokey and you turn around, that’s what it’s all about...kinda sums up the situation many folk find themselves in when attempting to endow their beloved Mini with a more impressive turn of speed.