I do like originalety......but a white roof would look good on there.

Are you covering up the marker light holes or refitting them?

Quick poll!

body colour all over?

or, 

we are thinking going with a white roof

thoughts? Opinions?

Scott will ultimately do what he wants...

Thanks Deb!

i have 2 different plates, I have the one from the other side with the doodad for holding the engine steady and I have have the early plate with the hole for the fuel line to run through. The latter seems thinner material than the former, which would you recommend. I haven't hooked anything up on the masters yet, and they have no fluid, so it's an easy fix.

Laid another coat of primer tonight, gonna hit it with 400 tomorrow.

Sean,

Just noticed two things.

1st , there is no plate under the master cylinder just the gasket. It has come to our attenton that the  newer model master cylinder can bottom out and jam if there is no spacer under it. The gasket is not enough. 

2nd. The two bolt subframe mounts allow for the engine subframe to move side to side. If you unlock the steering and move the steering wheel left to right you'll see the front subframe move.  C-STR640 is the solution. 

Sorry I did not see this post for a while so the advice comes after you installed the pieces. 

Deb

Wonderful story 60-odd days and almost finished...if not for the H1N1 or whatever, an outright world record restoration!

Look forward to seeing the Mini.

I just hope mine looks as good as yours soon...

Sean-

Lookin good-

So, as l see it, it is as good (progress) as a British Heritage Trust shell at this point-

So what you have sitting there ,is around $10K in value calculating in the heavy shipping costs from the UK to the west coast-

Not sure where you stand but well south of $10K-

BIG AL

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So, long time, no update... i have had the plague, or the flu, or H1N1, or scurvy since the 2nd week of December.

We have managed to get back at it just after the new year and have been making progress. Car has been primed with hi-build and we have blocked it out and found all of the imperfections. I will give it a sealer coat of primer this week and she will get a last going over with 400 grit. Hopefully, we will have her in the paint booth next weekend!

we used a tintable primer and my paint guy managed to match it to the original colour exactly! 

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Not too much to report this week, was out with the flu for most of it. Scott was over on the weekend so I set him to work tidying up the boot floor. There was a bit of surface rust where the spare tire sits, so it was sanded and treated with rust-mort, sanded again, primed and finally painted. Also touched up the floors in the cabin, sadly the paint isn't the perfect match I was hoping for.

All new clutch hydraulics arrived and were installed. The GMC227 master presents it's own challenges in that the fittings are 1) metric, and 2) opposite to the original configuration. I bent up some replacements and will take them in to have the correct ends and bubble flares put on. I know, I could do this myself with the right tool, but my brake line guy is so reasonable, I could have him flare a lifetime of ends for the cost of a good flaring tool. Plus, I suck at it and hate doing it...

Cleaned, painted, and greased the rod-change shifter assembly and installed it anong with the uprated no-leak seal kit. Still need to paint the shifter.

Thanks! I can sleep now!

There are 2 grooves with a gap between.

Two belts

So, I had one with a smog pump once but it was binned quickly. I don't remember the pulley. Were there 3 belts (water, smog and generator) or just 2 with one V being vacant?

Standard smog pump water pump pulley.

Those MK IV 998s, especially when saddled with the stock exhaust, totally come in and out easily.  Forty minutes without breaking a sweat.

Sean, very tasty!

What's with the 3-groove pulley?

Also, when dropping a rod change into the engine bay, having the radiator attached is a piece of cake, loads of room. Certainly easier than putting the rad and hoses on afterwards...

Not sure I would want to try it with a remote box though.

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Another solid weekend of work, front hubs were buttoned up with the ball joints lapped, shimmed and greased, all of the new brake hardware instaled and the bearings re-packed with new seals. The big move was dropping the engine back in! One of the biggest motivations for the speedy work is the fact that even tiny cars take up a ton of space when apart, and I am trying to reclaim some space in the shop!

Next up is to finish up the hydraulics and get the brakes and clutch sorted before putting the manifolds back on. The goal is to get her up and running, then tackle the bodywork (of which there is practically zero...)

Thanks Mike, 

The 998 engine is factory original and we fired it up prior to pulling it out. I pulled the head and split the trans and inspected everything. Bearing, bores etc were perfect so all new gaskets and lap the valves, and she went back together.

Hi Bruce, 

The deciding factor for not using the Canadian bumpers was that it didn't have them with the car when we got it... I can ask the guy I bought the car from if he knows where they are

Nice work Sean, looks like it was in pretty good shape to start with.. what's the plans for the engine?