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 Posted: Mar 6, 2020 08:11AM
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Could you send me the details please.

 Posted: Mar 6, 2020 06:57AM
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Tail lights-     I agree with Norm about some LEDs are not brighter than the regular bulb. I tested this out in the parking lot of the auto parts store. Swapped one side out and compared the two. Saw the results and return them immediately. Never looked back.

Headlights-    I did a lot of searching for a complete headlight bulb replacement. Found a nice looking LED with DRL that lights up the road and does not blind oncoming cars. Updates the look of the mini without going over the top.

 Posted: Mar 6, 2020 12:21AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
Thanks Ian,

I'll definitely get the Alternator checked properly.

On a side note, my rocker switch for the Headlights broke a while back an I replaced it. When I was fitting the new switch I noticed that the connector housing on the harness was deformed/melted around the pins. What would cause the wiring to heat up at the switch connection? Is it possible that the lamps in the headlights are the incorrect spec? Would that cause this kind of issue?

Cheers,
JP
You quite possibly have "enhanced" headlights; higher wattage headlights will draw more current causing problems such as you describe....

That's one of the reasons for fitting relays...  Which is a very simple process..  

But get the alternator sorted first..

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Mar 5, 2020 11:31PM
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Will do, thanks

 Posted: Mar 5, 2020 11:30PM
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Thanks Ian,

I'll definitely get the Alternator checked properly.

On a side note, my rocker switch for the Headlights broke a while back an I replaced it. When I was fitting the new switch I noticed that the connector housing on the harness was deformed/melted around the pins. What would cause the wiring to heat up at the switch connection? Is it possible that the lamps in the headlights are the incorrect spec? Would that cause this kind of issue?

Cheers,
JP

 Posted: Mar 5, 2020 02:16PM
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Just my guess but I would suspect one or two open diodes in the alternator, which will cause low output, you need a load test to confirm .

 Posted: Mar 5, 2020 02:13PM
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Hi Shaggy,

".....Regarding the charging issue, I’ve replaced the regulator and tested the alternator and it is outputting the correct charge...."

I don't think so... IMHO you need to take the car to an autoelec and have the alternator output tested.  Obviously I don't know what you're measuring but just checking that the output is 12V (actually it should be a bit more) is not enough.

Even the most basic alternator is capable of putting out more power than any sensible Mini can use.  Non sensible ones may have a squillion  watt sound system but otherwise its pretty difficult to conceive what could consume more power the the output of a basic alternator (40-50 amps).  High powered lights and an old generator don't play well together ..but otherwise...

Your symptoms sound exactly like my Mini suffered as the generator was dying...

Cheers, Ian




 Posted: Mar 5, 2020 01:23PM
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Thanks for all the advice guys. I’ll look into the different options on replacement bulbs.

Regarding the charging issue, I’ve replaced the regulator and tested the alternator and it is outputting the correct charge. The battery doesn’t drain overnight. In fact, as long as I don’t use the headlights the battery remains charged. It is only when I drive at night and use the headlights that the battery is drained.i can literally see the lights get dimmer and the flickers flick slower, the longer I drive with the headlights on. If it is raining and getting dark I get to a point where I have to choose wipers or headlights because once the headlights have been on for a while, the wipers stop working. As soon as I turn the headlights off the wipers start moving again.

that is the main reason that I want to get LED’s, so that I can reduce the power draw on the circuit.

 Posted: Mar 5, 2020 11:39AM
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And yes, like George says, if you need to charge your battery when the car sits overnight, it's not the light bulbs that are your first problem. (Unless you're leaving them on.) You need to sort out your charging system.

 Posted: Mar 5, 2020 05:18AM
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I also use a simple mylar reflector, rubber cemented to the lamp base for front indicators using rear aimed sylvania LED lamps. The reflector will also improve the brightness of a incandescent lamp quite a bit. My goal was a little different in that I wanted the early clear glass lens in the front that would only be yellow when the parking lights were on or when turning.

 Posted: Mar 5, 2020 04:53AM
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Your problem is the charging system if you need to charge the battery after driving at night. Check that it's actually charging. It could be something as simple as the belt being loose, or a bad generator/alternator, or voltage regulator, or bad ground or.......

After you sort that out this thread has the list of bulbs.

I've found the premium bulbs (read expensive) are way better than the cheap Asian ones on eBay. I've used Morimoto H4 replacement bulbs for the head lamps and I'm really pleased with them. I've also used Morimoto in the tail/brake lights and the front blinkers as a replacement for the Superbright LEDs I list in this thread.

Someone will chime in "don't use a LED in the charge light in the dash" it will prevent the circuit from charging the battery.

Also watch the Youtube videos from a company called Headlight Revolution you'll learn more than you'll ever need from them in regards to automotive lighting.

 

 

 Posted: Mar 5, 2020 04:34AM
 Edited:  Mar 5, 2020 04:37AM
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Because the reflectors in our old light housings are designed for incandescent lamps that don't have a focused light beam, just make the same amount of light in every direction, you want to make sure that the LED lamps you replace them with have a similar output. In other words, you want LEDs emitting light in every direction. If you look at the way different LED lamps are made, you can easily see which ones will work. These are what I use for turn signals and brake lights. Notice that there are LEDs facing every direction, including out the end. You can get these from https://www.superbrightleds.com/.

 Posted: Mar 5, 2020 01:04AM
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I have a 1977 Leyland Mini Clubman, and I’m looking to change out all the lamps for LED’s, since every time I drive at night, I have to recharge the battery so that I can start the car the next morning. Also, the standard headlight lamps are quite dim at night.

is there somewhere that I can get a list of LED lamps that will work as replacements? Is it possible to just replace the lamps without any additional components I.e. ballasts or flasher units etc.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 Posted: Sep 28, 2015 10:57AM
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Image Gallery

I agree with Norm that LEDs can be bright.  My side marker lights let into the plastic City Flairs (amber up front/red at rear) were chosen when the B.C. gov't official said I had to add side marker lights...because all Minis that came to Canada in the 70s had them.

Though they look bright on the Mini, they are the same lights that are used on transport semis & trailers.

LEDs are not an issue in any on/off install like parking/tail lights, brake lights. 

I like them because the Mini is more visible!

 Posted: Sep 28, 2015 04:13AM
 Edited:  Mar 12, 2016 01:53PM
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yes, Thanks for the list bikewiz !

I ordered two 1157-RHP28-T (red) for my break lights to see if that helps with a) making them more visible, b) use less juice so that the turn signal don't stop flashing when standing on the breaks.

I´ll see how that works before replacing the rest with LED´s.

Cheers, Sveinn

Hi all, a short update,. I got a bit side tracked since installing he break LED´s in September. The LED´s work great. Make the brake lights much brighter and draw little enough juice that the turn signals work. I am about the order bulbs and the applicable repeater unit shortly. Was debating whether to get the central speedo out to have it re calibrated to show accurate speed and replace the centre dash lights with LED´s at the same time. Geting a bit hard to see the temp and oil gages after dusk with the current dim lights.

Cheers, Sveinn

Sail fast Live slow.
 Posted: Nov 29, 2014 03:06AM
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BO

Thanks for the list.

As for gaskets, I often use sheet rubber, and cut it to size. But on many things, and even on some things that have gaskets, I use s thin strip of "rope caluk" from a hardware store. Seals, non hardening, etc. This appears to be what I found on the center plate from the cabin to the engine compartment as stock. Great for sealing the plastic sheeting for the door panels, and used it to seal the gas filler insert to the body before painting. It will go between the headlight bucket gasket and the body to seal better.

 

 Posted: Nov 28, 2014 05:20PM
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An Australian Design Rule in 1972 required back up lights...so (as I recently learned) my Mini Van has twin filament 1157 incandescent bulbs in the rear turn signal sockets which serve both signal and backup.  1st time I ever saw Amber back up lights and no one mentioned it in OZ or here until I took apart the rear tail lights and asked "Why 1157's?"

Will have to sort out the signal/backup light configuration and decide what to do...maybe add white backup LEDS to top of barn doors with 3rd brake lights?? 

Incidentally, the rear tailight gaskets (lamp bases to body and lenses to bases) are old, probably original...dried out, one was split.  In looking for replacements I found them at a supplier in Victoria, Australia...as none were on offer in US, Canada or UK.

 Posted: Nov 28, 2014 05:17PM
 Edited:  Nov 29, 2014 11:21AM
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CA

 Posted: Nov 28, 2014 04:18PM
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Here's the list of LEDs I used

I got most of the stuff from Superbright LEDs
(1) for the rear blinkers and reverse lights single intensity 1156-WHP28 cool white, these are 550 lumens you need 4 of them

(2) for the brake lights dual intensity 1157-RHP28-T (red) 550 lumen you need 2 

(3)Side markers WLED-XHP9-T in amber these just fit the housing, 2 of them

(4)Front blinkers 1156-A45-T in amber also 2 of them, the bigger ones listed above don't fit the housing.

(5) 3 pole European flasher CF13GL-02 this was a direct fit in the plug under the dash replacing the mechanical one, it's pretty cool because it clicks like the original. I tried the one from Moss Motors but I couldn't get it to work.

I also replaced all of my weak dash lights with LEDs WLED-WHP9-T and WLED-WHP5 I can't remember which I used in the 3 clock dash and the 3 auxillary guages but you can actually read the gauges at night now. I also did the interior light for the same reason.

I hope this is of help to someone.

 

 

 Posted: Nov 28, 2014 02:39PM
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I bought 1157 LED bulbs to replace the twin filament 1157 incandescent bulbs in the rear brake/parking lights in '73 OZ Mini Van.  Since they are on/off by switches (brake & lights) they work and they work well with the lenses (maybe more good luck here than design).

I also bought two strings of red LEDs for the inside of the barn door glass as a temporary 3rd brake light - they will be replaced with a fixed LED lights alternative.  These were simply wired into the rear tail light connections.

Both were sourced from Princess Auto in Coquitlam, B.C.

One of our club members is looking at bringing in an order of LED units from the UK for signal lighting though my Clubbie lighting up front might not qualify.... 

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