Head
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Apr 11, 2018 07:15AM | tothefloor | |
Apr 9, 2018 02:42PM | mur | |
Apr 9, 2018 11:11AM | 65AMCS | |
Apr 4, 2018 08:45PM | Spitz | |
Apr 4, 2018 08:43PM | mur | |
Apr 4, 2018 06:54PM | 1963SV2 | |
Apr 4, 2018 05:33PM | 65AMCS | |
Dec 12, 2014 07:55AM | 65AMCS | |
Dec 11, 2014 07:14PM | Cup Cake | |
Dec 11, 2014 06:59PM | 65AMCS | |
Dec 9, 2014 09:28PM | Minimike1 | |
Dec 9, 2014 07:49PM | Spank | |
Dec 9, 2014 07:44PM | Air2air | Edited: Dec 9, 2014 07:45PM |
Dec 9, 2014 07:38PM | Spitz | |
Dec 9, 2014 07:12PM | 65AMCS |
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Thank you to all who posted and the great suggestions.
I called and spoke with Bel. If this is the correct Bel. Apparently they only do aluminum heads. Never have worked on cast iron.
Bel Engine Services
1-9804 47 Ave NW, Edmonton AB T6E 5P3
1 780-465-3586
He recommended Edmonton Cast Iron Repair down the street.
//www.edmontoncastironrepair.com/edmontoncastironrepair.com/WELCOME.html
Since our company started in 1959 our expertise has grown to meet our customer’s demands. Originally operating as a cylinder head rebuilding facility Edmonton Cast Iron’s specialized welding technique...
Never heard back from them.
I found //www.midwestcylinderhead.com/services.php#special
I spoke with the shop foreman. He stated repair should not be an issue; we have done this work untold number of times.
I will be sending the head to Midwest. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Exciting stuff!! And soon to be expensive too. Oh Boy!
Thanks again.
Tim
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12g940 heads show up for sale regularly. A shop should be able to drill the extra two holes if wanted.
Or...lots of tasty heads available new!
https://www.minimania.com/part/AEG163-RB/Classic-Austin-Mini-Rebuilt-Cylinder-Head-With-Valves-And-Springs
https://calverst.com/webshop/cylinder-head/
https://www.minimania.com/part/U-12G940/12g940-Cylinder-Head-9-Or-Eleven-Stud-With-Valves--Springs
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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163s were used on early Ss and were known as being prone to cracking. I hadn't heard about "Mk II" 163s but BMC did produce heads with reduced valve sizes to combat cracking... don't know if there are "small valve" 163s though. The common updated head for 1275s is the 12G940 (casting number). These do come in various guises. AFAIK you would need to measure the valves to determine is its an "S" head. A 940 modified by a "name" specialist is the best option... unless you're an originality junky.. 163s do seem to come up on fleabay quite regularly. However noting their reputation (163s not fleabay you would want to be very sure about the sellers bona fides..
I don't think BMC "stamped" heads.. The casting numbers were the identifiers. Stamped heads indicate a third party involvement... which is helpful... if you can read the codes
Cheers, Ian
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The machinist called; The head has a crack behind the valve so the head is not good. Block, crank, pistons rods are fine.
%^$%#&*=many bad words.
What are my options? Can the head be repaired? Machinist said he thought no. Can I purchase a new "old" "S"head? Where? or like Hens teeth. What "new" head or heads are available for a "S" head block. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It's spring here in WI irrespective of the 7" of snow we got last night and I do want to get Yoda back on the road.
Thanks for the help
Tim
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Hello and thanks for the reply.
A while back, I bought "Essential Mini Cooper and "Original Min Cooper and Cooper S books on the classic Minis. I actually enjoy reading of the Mini. I don't believe the books mentioned the casting numbers ie part numbers. I believe they mentioned the "spampings" on the head. With this in mind; I greatly appreciate your insight and comments!
Thanks much!
Now on to gettting the head checked out. I think if I drop it off early next week I may have it back and installed in time for spring! Let' hope so.
Thanks again.
Tim
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It does .... sort of. The part number is one digit less than the casting number or AEG162 in your case.
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde
//www.cupcakecooper.ca/
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Hello and thanks for the input.
I have the car in a shop about 30 miles from my home so, sorry my response is not timely.
Yes it is an Austin Cooper S, 1965. I did measure the valves and yes they are the correct "S" size. Also, I did keep the pushrods in the correct order; ). As for checking the head; I haven't given that much thought. Just thinking about it; I think that is an excellent suggestion!
I am still curious as to why the head does not have a factory number stamp.
Regards
Tim
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while the head is off, good time to get it crack tested, and relap your valves. Hope you kept them in order along with the pushrods.
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Just to confirm, it is a Cooper S head. Should have 1.4" intake and 1.21 exhaust valves as stock.
Some runs of them are known to be crack-prone between the intake and exhaust valves. Supposedly there was a modified casting still bearing the same AEG163 number that didn't suffer from the cracking issues as the earliest ones did.
I've seen stampings like the one you have in the manifold mounting face on heads that have been rebuilt and a shop has marked it to catalog it. Performance modifiers like Longman and others also will sometimes stamp their heads there or on the top face with a serial number and chamber size designated in cc's.
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On the pic of the manifold stud, is that indentation common? Trying to remember if I've seen that before.
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I believe the AEG163 is the number of an early S head
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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Hello.
I have a 1965 Austin Cooper S. It"s winter here in WI so I am doing a little maintenance. The rubber radiator surround seal was brittle so I removed the radiator to replace the seal. This was a good time to check the water pump. This too was very loose but not leaking...yet, so time to replace that too. I removed the pump and the bypass hose was also brittle so I removed that. Well the bypass metal tube from the head was just a nub so I tried to remove that but could not. I removed the head, put in a vice and with a little heat and a big wrench and an easy out; the bypass metal tube came out.
So, checking the head; I could not find a head stamp number. There are casting numbers 26A MOWOG AEG 163 see pic 2 and a stamp on the intake surface G 28 G see pic 3. I can not find any other numbers on the head. I find this stange. Am I missing something? Why would this head not have a number? Near the thermostat is a single stamp, a D I think but not a number.
Thanks for the help.
Tim