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 Posted: Feb 12, 2016 09:25PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Squirt
When at rest or moving forward, the ball presses against the plastic valve (big nut side) and allows fluid to pass to the right and left rear brake cylinders. When stopping hard, the ball moves forward and up hill allowing the valve to close and stop the flow of fluid. This particular proportioning valve must be mounted at an angle so the ball keeps the valve open except under hard braking.
perfect thank you! my confusion was that I thought the ball itself blocked the passages in the upper part of the valve, now I see the ball just releases pressure on the plastic valve which does the regulating. Thanks for clarifying that for me.

 Posted: Feb 12, 2016 07:52PM
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When at rest or moving forward, the ball presses against the plastic valve (big nut side) and allows fluid to pass to the right and left rear brake cylinders. When stopping hard, the ball moves forward and up hill allowing the valve to close and stop the flow of fluid. This particular proportioning valve must be mounted at an angle so the ball keeps the valve open except under hard braking.

 

 

 

1971 Cooper S MKIII

1976 Mini 1000

 Posted: Feb 12, 2016 06:58PM
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might be a silly question.... but what is the purpose of the plastic plunger? I was under the impression that when under hard braking, the ball would ride up the ramp and stifle the flow of fluid to the rear brakes. As the plunger is located on the nut and at the bottom of the ramp i'm wondering what its there for?

 Posted: Feb 12, 2016 05:28PM
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CA
The washer should be freed without too much effort...and face it off on some wet dry paper before reassembly.

The copper crushes to provide a perfect seal.  It may be that it was tightened down originally against some cast imperfections.

 Posted: Feb 12, 2016 10:33AM
 Edited:  Feb 12, 2016 10:34AM
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Rick, I just did the Aussie Moke's this morning. The breaker bar did the trick. The plastic valve is working, but the copper washer is fused to the nut. I am headed out to the local feed and grain store for a bucket of molasses to mix up a batch of "Rick's Brew"!

 

 

 

1971 Cooper S MKIII

1976 Mini 1000

 Posted: Feb 12, 2016 09:28AM
 Edited:  Feb 15, 2016 04:33PM
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CA

I had one of these just the other day that was frozen, My breaker bar and spaghetti arms weren't enough to get it apart. (Truth be told, the swivel on the vice was overwhelmed and it would turn, despite my efforts to lock it...)

I broke out the impact wrench and presto, she came apart in a jiffy.

Sean Windrum

1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100

 

 Posted: Feb 11, 2016 04:39PM
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the copper washers can be "fluffed" up to seal again by (after removal) heating with a torch until it turns color, then let cool, this restores the original ductility

Norm

 Posted: Feb 11, 2016 11:23AM
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US

Is the older valve similar on the inside? I replaced ours, but was curious if a molasses soak would let me get it apart, clean and reassemble?

 Posted: Feb 11, 2016 10:21AM
 Edited:  Feb 11, 2016 10:24AM
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CA

driftz,

There is a copper washer between the main body and the valve assembly...you should be able to free the assembly with torque.  Put the assembly securely in a vise, apply a good penetrant to the exterior and, after letting the penetrant work overnight, use a breaker bar & socket to release the "welded" valve assembly.  I keep a piece of heavy stainless pipe to slip over my breaker bar if a little more force is needed, but I doubt you would need that.

My assembly was siezed - ball not loose in body, shuttle stuck.  Patience & good cleanup restored it to service.

DO NOT USE TORCH

Rick

 Posted: Feb 11, 2016 06:19AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by driftz


Thanks for posting. I had my brake system apart replacing a line and decided to see about rebuilding/servicing my valve. The nut was pretty much welded onto the valve and I could not get it apart. I could however hear/feel the ball moving around and blow air through the valve so I figured it was fine.

I wasn't aware there was the little plastic shuttle (thought it was just a metal ball that pressed against the fluid exit hole). If the ball was free to move but I wasn't able to verify the shuttle, is there anyway of knowing if the valve is functioning properly? Should I pull it off again and bring out the torch to remove the nuts? thanks

Plastic + torch = new valve.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Feb 10, 2016 04:57PM
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Thanks for posting. I had my brake system apart replacing a line and decided to see about rebuilding/servicing my valve. The nut was pretty much welded onto the valve and I could not get it apart. I could however hear/feel the ball moving around and blow air through the valve so I figured it was fine.

I wasn't aware there was the little plastic shuttle (thought it was just a metal ball that pressed against the fluid exit hole). If the ball was free to move but I wasn't able to verify the shuttle, is there anyway of knowing if the valve is functioning properly? Should I pull it off again and bring out the torch to remove the nuts? thanks

 Posted: Feb 7, 2016 02:24PM
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CA
Image Gallery

DONE - removed valve assembly from molasses/water bath and rinsed thoroughly.  Shuttle valve is completely free.  Once the bits were  dry, hit with Brake Clean and let dry.

Cleaned up faces of copper washer on wet/dry paper, lightly reasembled & double bagged for parts bin.

Camera picls up all the light reflections off the ball, which makes the 'pitting' look far worse than it actually is...so no worries.

 Posted: Feb 4, 2016 02:39PM
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CA
Image Gallery

UPDATE...as above the shuttle valve was not moving.

I put assembly in boiling water for 5 minutes or so, then hit it with brake clean.  Shuttle popped loose...appears completely free to move.  Blew assembly with some compressed air...a few squirts and dried it out getting only a few very little slivers of rust.

Popped assembly back into the molasses bath and pulled out the main body.  It has cleaned up well.

Look to be almost done with the restore attempt.  Remember this proportioning valve is 40 odd years old.

Will use new one from MM and have spare on the shelf!

 Posted: Feb 3, 2016 01:44PM
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CA

Good add-ons...

Meanwhile, the brake proportioning valve chamber & ball are clean...minor pitting on the ball (now the rust has been eaten off).

Can get air through the valve but no valve movement, so more rinsing, soaking.  Will update.

 Posted: Feb 3, 2016 12:11PM
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US

ALERT!!! Alert - Danger to manifold.!!!

Dont worry fellas!   New waterpump on table Will be installed.

Is a used temp sensor pluging the hole in the head.

  = Sligthly concerned with head gasket  + mixture touching that - if it might cause issues or not - but a head gasket is a 2 hour job!

Basically - Trying this - and not have to fully dissassemble the engine - it runs to well not to try it other than that it just pumps mudwater.   After enough research - becasue the internet said so - molasses can be the gentilest - then Vinegar - the people are actually also using CLR! Very common rust abatement tricks.

 

Will follow with full flush and soda flush to nutralize the acids -  Fillerup with antifreeze 50/50 and go!

 

Will report back - Either way - mudwater wasnt good.

 Posted: Feb 3, 2016 10:21AM
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EATS ALUMINUM !!!! I guess Jedduh needs to take a look at that water pump before he runs it then.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 3, 2016 10:15AM
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CA

ONE PROBLEM (among several)...molasses eats aluminum.

 Posted: Feb 3, 2016 09:53AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by swindrum

So, that got me thinking, would that work on an engine in the car? Run it a couple times a day for a week or so, drain, flush and fill. You would know your insides are all spic and span!

YOU try it... and report back!

I'm guessing the 'drain and flush' part would be tedious and repetetive since you wouldn't be able to turn the block over to fully drain it.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Feb 3, 2016 09:31AM
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CA

So, that got me thinking, would that work on an engine in the car? Run it a couple times a day for a week or so, drain, flush and fill. You would know your insides are all spic and span!

Sean Windrum

1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100

 

 Posted: Feb 3, 2016 05:36AM
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US

 Filled to the brim with Molases mixture!

Will sit for 1-2 Weeks- depending on when other parts come back from blast and powdercoat for re assembly.

 

 

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