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 Posted: Mar 2, 2016 04:14PM
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US
here is an almost useless link now that all my Imageshack photos are gone.

elf-hornet.4forum.biz/t1303-hydrolastic-keep-repairing-or-change-to-dry-cone

Anyway, there are still a few of the part numbers in the text, hopefully they help.  This weekend I will try recharging the dead laptop that originally had the photos on it, if I can find them I will try getting them back on the web and fix that thread. Are there any decent free photo hosting sites?

 Posted: Feb 29, 2016 07:39PM
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Landcrab ones are huge.

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Feb 29, 2016 06:33PM
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land crab displacers same as mini?   I think the Austin  1300/ Austin America were larger.

 Posted: Feb 29, 2016 01:52PM
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The hydro bag itself would fail long before a 5000psi hydraulic hose and fittings. I used to have a list of the parts involved but its gone missing. It seems to me it was straightforward and the supplier made the hose while I waited. I think it was around $100. The angle of the fitting on the end of the hose was very slightly different than the hard line in the car but I never had a problem. The displacer is from a Landcrab.

The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde

//www.cupcakecooper.ca/

 Posted: Feb 29, 2016 01:14AM
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As I posted on here previously, I successfully repaired a Mini one by cutting the barb off flush, then tapping a 1/8BSP thread in it. Then I screwed a brass 3/8 x 1/8 BSP brass nipple in. You guys could use NPT fittings instead. Sealed with Loctite 262.
I filled the drill flutes with grease, and drilled slowly, just through the metal body. Ditto the tap. Do not go deep, there are valves in there.

I used the bench drill.

Pic-

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Feb 28, 2016 08:36PM
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what kind of sealant did you put around the nipple in the bag.

anyone silversoldered them?

Or migged the nipple in?

 Posted: Feb 28, 2016 06:42PM
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Thanks for the response. How is that holding up? I have seen that method referenced also. I may look into going that route. Any specifics you can share on the fitting etc? 

 Posted: Feb 28, 2016 06:12PM
 Edited:  Feb 28, 2016 06:14PM
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Image Gallery
I can't comment on Todd's method but I got a hose made up at a hydraulic equipment shop. I threaded a spigot into the displacer to attach the new hose. Here's a sequence of pictures that show the process.

The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde

//www.cupcakecooper.ca/

 Posted: Feb 28, 2016 02:23PM
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I recently decided to see what could be done about a damaged hose on a hydrolastic bag that failed last year. I took a look at the often referenced information on the austin america site. When I ordered the parts by using the numbers on Todd's site the ferrule that came into the local supplier is 7/8" in diameter. The pipe is no where near that size in diameter.Also the other two parts looked close to the correct size. The ferrule was obviously not correct as it was much bigger and wouldn't fit inside the nut.
 Todd suggested when emailed that he thought the mini had a smaller bag(is this true?) than the AA or 1100.Anyone have the correct part numbers to build a compression fitting for a mini hydro bag? 

These are the numbers from Todd's site:

7165x14 metric flareless tube sleeve

MH7105 x 14 metric flareless tube nut

Mc5208 x 10 x 14 metric tube seat hydraulic adapter

Anybodt out there done this procedure?  Thanks,Hal