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 Posted: Jan 30, 2017 08:45PM
Total posts: 6469
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CA
turbodave

I simply ignore every post from you know who and focus on the rest.

hunter2

 Posted: Jan 30, 2017 04:47PM
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STFU Idiot.

It's been fun, but this place is done. I have no hatred, and appreciate the good times. But this place now belongs to Tony and his pink mini. 

 Posted: Jan 30, 2017 12:32PM
 Edited:  Jan 30, 2017 04:59PM
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i would attach a 2inch flat steel lengthwise, it will serve as the link between the front subframe and the back subframe. you will need two of 2inch flat bar with the length of 60 inches. and you also need four nuts and bolts.. you will bolt the end of the flat bar to the subframe below. if you analyze deeper, mini doesnt have any chassis, the only thing that's there between the front and back wheeels is the flooring, and if you have a rusty floors, chances are, it will break in the middle if the car drive over a huge manhole. or if your'e riding in the highway and it breaks in the middle due to rust, it will be fatal.

tdave didnt get the logic

 Posted: Jan 30, 2017 10:07AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheleker
Added to Big Al's comments about having the correct lug nuts for the spare wheel/tire, one also has to have the correct lug wrenches...for all of the lug nuts on the car. If you're new to Minis, and especially if you have the later, horrible aluminum covered lug nuts, take an 11/16", 17mm, and 3/4" socket and walk around the car and see what sizes you have.
And when they are all buggered up from a PO using the wrong size socket take an 18mm one with you as well or get some new ones.

Put an old tennis ball over the bonnet safety latch when working on the car. That part seems like it would be a good aftermarket piece made in stainless that would attach to the front panel instead of the bonnet.

When installing new rear wheel cylinders start the brake line before you secure them in place it will be easier to start the nut without cross threading it.

When replacing the clutch slave cylinder make sure to crack the hose loose first before unbolting it.

Slot the boot hinges so you can remove the boot lid easily when working in the trunk area and save your aching back.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jan 30, 2017 08:31AM
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US
Added to Big Al's comments about having the correct lug nuts for the spare wheel/tire, one also has to have the correct lug wrenches...for all of the lug nuts on the car. If you're new to Minis, and especially if you have the later, horrible aluminum covered lug nuts, take an 11/16", 17mm, and 3/4" socket and walk around the car and see what sizes you have.

 Posted: Jan 30, 2017 06:35AM
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Why leave the 8oclock bolt out ?  Doesnt make sense, you will need to pull the motor out to work on the clutch anyways, who can take the clutch apart when engine is still attached to the car???? You need little baby hands to do the task or bang the quarter panel out. I dunno,maybe im not that expert to do it, im just a specialist. 

 Posted: Jan 29, 2017 09:14PM
 Edited:  Jan 29, 2017 09:28PM
Total posts: 10232
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GB
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimike1
leave out the 8 o'clock bolt on the clutch cover (chinese hat).  It's hard to get out and hard to put back.  Not needed.
Spot the person who hasn't read all the answers posted so far... 

Or perhaps that should be - never post to a thread without reading it all the way through first, you may be repeating something previously discussed and end up looking ordinary.

 Posted: Jan 29, 2017 07:52PM
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US
leave out the 8 o'clock bolt on the clutch cover (chinese hat).  It's hard to get out and hard to put back.  Not needed.

 Posted: Jan 29, 2017 04:57PM
 Edited:  Feb 1, 2017 02:32PM
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US
I installed a battery cut-off switch (in my case, the red one with L handle, but could be the green knob) in the engine bay, so that I don't have to remove the ground strap in the boot to work on electrics. Also very handy anti-theft device to simply pocket the red handle if the Mini seems vulnerable.

 Posted: Jan 29, 2017 12:58PM
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GB
I do a similar thing with inlet manifolds - thinning down or removing the flange below the bolt holes allows the manifold to be lifted off vertically without dismantling everything, very useful if you don't have enough clearance against the bulkhead.

 Posted: Jan 29, 2017 12:45PM
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Further to the one above about leaving out the bottom bolt on the clutch cover, I also cut a slot out of the other "hard to access" bolts. This means you just need to slacken the bolts about two turns only, and you can lift out the clutch cover. Note - all slots need to be oriented the same way - not lined up to the centre like you might think...

It's been fun, but this place is done. I have no hatred, and appreciate the good times. But this place now belongs to Tony and his pink mini. 

 Posted: Jan 29, 2017 09:43AM
Total posts: 6469
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Member since:Nov 2, 2006
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CA
I stopped for service on the way home from MMW in San Diego.  The mid-exhaust hanger had separated.  Exhaust had not fallen...and I gave new galvanized wire to the tech installing the new hanger with the instruction, "Rewire the Exhaust."

Had also provided wire for a Mini that had an exhaust hanger failure at the MMW autocross in San Diego.

Baling wire, soft wire for CV boots, duct tape & zap straps are inexpensive help mates to have as 'spares'.  But buy good duct tape.  It will last for a round trip about a continent.

 Posted: Jan 29, 2017 07:51AM
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US
General restoration advice:
Photograph before disassembly.
Bag and label all parts as they are removed.
And most important... Once you start a project, commit to doing at least one task (no matter how small) on the car each day.  Once you start skipping days it's only a matter of time before your quick project takes many years and parts go missing (or you sell [at a loss] the incomplete project in boxes).

Doug L.
 Posted: Jan 29, 2017 05:40AM
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CA
Do not put the lower bolt in the clutch housing, not needed and a bitch to get at

Do not put 2-3 carpets in the drivers side floor,will effect clutch action and not allow it to fully depress causing you to think the clutch is out of adjustment (my mechanic fires them in the back seat if he finds them piled up)

This is my pet peave, always carry 4 open end wheel nuts if running a standard steel wheel as a spare WHEN running mag wheels with hooded wheel nuts, In most cases the hooded nuts on a steel wheel will not draw up enough to fully tighten, so get dressed go out to your shop, find 4 open ended standard wheel nuts and wire them onto the steel spare wheel(ask me how l know) Also when running 8.4 inch disc brakes up front, check to see if your current steel spare will fit over the calipers(probably not) so the drill is, if it is the front tyre that is flat, pull it off ,replace it with a wheel from the rear and then put your steel spare on the rear, using your 4 spare nuts you have wired to the spare(sorry long and boring but essential)

And always carry a few nylon ties and a short length of baling wire, invaluable with our minis

Big AL

[email protected]

Niagara Ontario Canada

 Posted: Jan 29, 2017 03:57AM
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Its easy when you have the right tools, i use 12 inch long nose pliers with bended tip to access the cotter pin...Easy peasy!!  

Another tip, remove the driver seat when you are working on clutch and brake pedals.  More room to stretch....  





Common sense, saves me time and money

 Posted: Jan 29, 2017 03:48AM
Total posts: 654
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"All great tips. But how do you fit the pins before? Master cylinders won't go up through those tiny holes??"
"5) if re-assembling the brake & clutch pedal assembly, always replace the cotter pin BEFORE you put the assembly in place (easy to do when out, very difficult to do when in the footwell)"


oh, rats, I remembered that one wrong


Anyone have a good tip for how that one is done?  I forgot.



 Posted: Jan 28, 2017 09:20PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nkerr
1) never install a steering column mount drop bracket without also adjusting the steering rack so the pinion remains in line with the new angle of the column


a few people writing in here about shearing off a rack pinion while driving (and total loss of steering) drilled that one into me


2) when re-installing a fuel tank, leave some extra hose length so you could shift it out of the way to access the LH damper upper nut, some day, just in case (make sure the excess is tucked well out of the way of luggage, and isn't kinked)


3) If an engine has been running well for some time, and it suddenly begins to run rough DON'T TOUCH THE CARBURETOR(S) adjustment, because that is the least likely cause. Instead check the valve clearances, check the timing, check the condition of the condenser and points, check the fuel supply, fuel filter, carb float bowl cleanliness and the float check valve sticking. Only after having confirmed all of those much more likely things, then, maybe, suspect the carb adjustment. A well adjusted one(s) in good health shouldn't require maintenance for 30~60k miles, enough to wear the throttle shaft.


4) The dashpot oil almost never needs oil (maybe once a year, or two years, maybe). The level is below the top of the dashpot (inner cylinder), not above that, and filling it above that only means that the excess will leak down while running and you'll fool yourself into thinking it is leaking out daily. An easy way to check is to unscrew and lift out the damper and confirm it has some drag coming out and going in (that's the oil doing that).


5) if re-assembling the brake & clutch pedal assembly, always replace the cotter pin BEFORE you put the assembly in place (easy to do when out, very difficult to do when in the footwell)


6) when replacing the rear brake cylinders never use the "E" clip that comes with the new ones. Instead, buy a "C" clip and wave washer, like the original factory used. Easy to fit, easy to use. Also, available from Grainger in stainless steel: Grainger #5DA81 = 11/16" external retaining ring, stainless steel. Grainger #6ZA12 = 11/16" wave washer (3 wave), stainless steel.


7)  when refitting the cylinder head use a black Payen head gasket, much better quality than the silver ones sold by many of the usual suppliers
All great tips. But how do you fit the pins before? Master cylinders won't go up through those tiny holes??

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Jan 28, 2017 06:16PM
 Edited:  Jan 30, 2017 10:41AM
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US
If you need to remove/replace a choke or heater cable assembly, use a 1/4" drive, 12 point, 9/16" tubing crows foot on a 6" extension to install/remove the nut holding the choke or heater cable assembly to the back of the switch panel.  Use the cable housing as guide and slide the crow's foot onto the nut.  Easier if you drop the heater out of the way-works great.

 Posted: Jan 28, 2017 12:37PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheleker
When working in the engine compartment, never leave rags, loose parts, tools or a loose radiator cap in the engine compartment. Put them in your pocket or on  something like a tray next to the car. Or on the workbench.
Should not do: After topping off the oil I left the oil cap loose in the engine bay. Only took about 12 feet underpower before it found it's way between the radiator and fan. Required a new radiator, fan blade and cap (with retaining strap) to fix that adventure.

Should consider doing: I leave the door open while fastening my seat belt. At 6ft and 225lbs this gives me a little extra wiggle room and makes the process that much easier.

Great thread Cheleker!

 Posted: Jan 28, 2017 12:24PM
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^^^^

case

rested

It's been fun, but this place is done. I have no hatred, and appreciate the good times. But this place now belongs to Tony and his pink mini. 

Found 89 Messages

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