i agree, in case your mini start to run crappy, start with the dashpot,99% of the time, the dashpot oil need topping off, don't take the carbs apart right away, use your common sense. when your mini got under the water , it doesn't follow that your carb gets out of tune, get rid of the flood water and you're good to go. Tell your land lord to pay for the damages it costs your mini.  aaaanyway! The valve timing and ignition timing being bad is a bit far from possibility because it doesn't happen overnight, but SU carbs do get out of tune any time of the day, like in a flick of a finger.  remember a worn out set of SU carbs just cannot hold a good tune, it just not. in owning a classic mini, you need to learn to be patient and get contented because there's always parts that needs replacement one after the other, one part gets fixed another part acts up the next day.. get used to it...it's part of the fun.  the only parts ninth mini that has the least chance to fail are the wheel bearings, that's why i was surprised when someone here posted a picture of his yellowish mini on the road and trying to replace the wicked wheel bearing. you gotta grease your bearing for heaven sake. my mini is 40 years old, and the wheel bearings are still in fantastic condition.  it's well maintained ,i must say.

1) never install a steering column mount drop bracket without also adjusting the steering rack so the pinion remains in line with the new angle of the column


a few people writing in here about shearing off a rack pinion while driving (and total loss of steering) drilled that one into me


2) when re-installing a fuel tank, leave some extra hose length so you could shift it out of the way to access the LH damper upper nut, some day, just in case (make sure the excess is tucked well out of the way of luggage, and isn't kinked)


3) If an engine has been running well for some time, and it suddenly begins to run rough DON'T TOUCH THE CARBURETOR(S) adjustment, because that is the least likely cause. Instead check the valve clearances, check the timing, check the condition of the condenser and points, check the fuel supply, fuel filter, carb float bowl cleanliness and the float check valve sticking. Only after having confirmed all of those much more likely things, then, maybe, suspect the carb adjustment. A well adjusted one(s) in good health shouldn't require maintenance for 30~60k miles, enough to wear the throttle shaft.


4) The dashpot oil almost never needs oil (maybe once a year, or two years, maybe). The level is below the top of the dashpot (inner cylinder), not above that, and filling it above that only means that the excess will leak down while running and you'll fool yourself into thinking it is leaking out daily. An easy way to check is to unscrew and lift out the damper and confirm it has some drag coming out and going in (that's the oil doing that).


5) if re-assembling the brake & clutch pedal assembly, to replace the cotter pins, take the driver seat out and push the pedal upwards to lock the clevis pin in position - this allows easy access and the the ability to work the split pin as required. - thanks Alex!


6) when replacing the rear brake cylinders never use the "E" clip that comes with the new ones. Instead, buy a "C" clip and wave washer, like the original factory used. Easy to fit, easy to use. Also, available from Grainger in stainless steel: Grainger #5DA81 = 11/16" external retaining ring, stainless steel. Grainger #6ZA12 = 11/16" wave washer (3 wave), stainless steel.


7)  when refitting the cylinder head use a black Payen head gasket, much better quality than the silver ones sold by many of the usual suppliers

When installing the steering rack or column and tighten the pinch bolt, always check there is still a minimum .020 / 0.5mm (or larger) gap where the pinch bolt closes the column around the shaft. If it's too small or non-existent, remove column, use a clamp around the outside of the bolt/nut flanges to close it up and run a hacksaw or cutting disc down the slot to make it larger.
And I also prefer to use a socket cap screw and a unlock nut so I can wail down on it and have confidence it won't back out...

You need to use monza gas cap, no lock ", just flip!! but im afraid some skateboard riding punks in the streets miight open it and put some sand or insect inside your gas tank...But heck it does looks cool.

Always add the prefix 'isn't-a-' to anything written by the troll.
Never believe a word he types (can't speak, as hasn't the balls to turn up at a show).


With regard to the fuel cap advice, I always leave it on the fuel pump - I don't like putting it on the roof in case it scratches or stains, and I don't want a pocket stincking of petrol.

Having a locking cap means I can't drive off without replacing it as the ignition key is in the cap...

Here's one. 
Dont listen to or waste time reading anything this f$&@ing "specialist" idiot has to say, because, well, he is an egotistical idiot who couldn't find his arse with both hands.

Never never make your mini a daily driver, especially the 850's . bear in mind that classic minis are show cars and it's meant to impress people, do not over expose them, drive them to starbucks on weekends, make it special, let's admit it, classic minis being a Nurse's car is a thing of the past, automobliles in the past are slow, the modern cars nowadays are super fast, minis simply cannot compete with them, don't be delusional and say that minis can go on highways 80mph 90mph, nope it just not.  take care of your minis, treat them like a friend, don't abuse them.  everytime i drive my mini, it's like my scrotum is in my neck because im always nervous that it will stall or stop due to mechanical problem, but luckily, i maintain my mini really good and drive it only 45mph max.

After using a remote starter to bump the engine while adjusting valve clearance, don't forget to connect the white/red wire at the solenoid.  Otherwise you get in the car, it won't start, then you gotta get out of the car, open the bonnet, connect the wire, get back in the car.........

if you are parking in between two cars, leave the rear of the Mini sticking out. People will assume there is a free spot there....and rear end you!!!

Couple to add.

Don't take it through an automatic car was - bought my first mini in NZ, and promptly went to an autowash to clean it up.  Spent the entire 10 second ride trying to stem the deluge of water coming through the door seals, and laughing hysterically!

Right hand drive in the US - don't parallel park against the curb where a car can park behind you - absolutely no way to see traffic when you're trying to pull out.

I do like the comment about objects in the mirror not being as fuzzy as they appear.  So true.

Finally, with our upright driving position and vertical windshield, I've found a fresnal lens to be sooooo worth the price at stoplights, so I'm not hunching over so I can see the light change.  Here's an example:  //www.lightinsight.com/

Scott

Don't believe everything you read; the prevailing wisdom isn't always right or right for you.

Never start a "frame off restoration" on your mini. Keep it running and driving as much as possible and for as long as possible while you work on it.

I have owned several minis that I bought as stalled projects. It really does pain me to hear of someone who is taking apart their mini any more than absolutely necessary.

Taking a panel down to bare metal is not always the best thing to do prior to repainting it.

New is not always better. Factory Original isn't, either.

Good one!

that's true sir Michael Lewis, i for one, i really dislike people who participate on a carshow and don't want their car to be touched, i mean that's too unfriendly, i dunno what their reasons are, don't they want greasy finger marks on their shiny cars? they can clean them easily.. if i ever get my mini to a carshow, i will secure my personal belongings first and i'd let people sit and take pictures, and even start my mini(but not drive) i can even allow infants to vomit on my seat i don't care as long as they're happy, and i see them smile, heck!

Allow plenty of extra time when you go somewhere in your Mini, particularly the petrol station.

Folks will be stopping you to ask you about it, tell you about the one they had in college, or the one that they used to race, or to gush about how they have always wanted one. Or the one they have in their garage, or their neighbor has, or...

Be prepared to have people taking photos/videos of themselves with your Mini, even while driving alongside you.

At car shows, many owners put signs on their car: "Look, but don't touch!"

Me? I put a sign on mine that says, "Feel free to sit in it and make engine noises!"
.

i just can't resist this thread, i gotta give my opinion, these are the kinds of thread i like, very opinion based thread,,there's no right or wrong, and there's a little touch of drama to it. 1)Well for one, never never let someone sit inside the car when working iniside the engine compartment if you don't want some of your body parts to fly away when the bonnet slams on you. 2) never never use jet wash to clean your mini, moreso DO NOT jet wash the front grill especially when you are using a 123 dizzy, then cry the next day...... 3) never never put the jackstand on the lower side panel of your mini...use your common sense, they're six of them. ( and since i am a double major in psych,,,i have 7 of them) 4) ... pls look at the picture i posted,, this what The plastic fan looks like when hit by the radiator cap.... Pls cap them tightly!!!!!

When driving at speeds greater than 45mph, on unknown roads, be prepared to go air born without notice, and learn to enjoy it.

At speed, objects in the rear view mirror are not as fuzzy as they appear.

When changing front rubber springs, leave a message to the future inside.

sorry I like this thread

Never pull deep into a parking space. Always try to place the rear of your Mini close to the rear of the cars on each side of you. Especially if you have a MK1 bootlid.

Someone recently said to make sure things are fully bolted together before a test ride, and my personal mistake, always check the torque spec, twisted off a perfectly good wheel stud first time I put a wheel back on.

Don't listen to the car stereo while working on it (or something nearby) without access to a battery charger.
I did that at the cottage. No-one else around and no phone. Panic was rising when I realized the engine would not start. I managed to dig out a very old 6V charger my grandfather had made using a 120V motor and a 6V generator, probably last used in the 1950's. It managed to push in just enough juice that the engine did start.

If bald, wear a hat when working on the engine.