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 Posted: Jul 29, 2018 10:09PM
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Some extra bits...new electric fuel pump with switchable fused power off the #3 Fuse (before ancillaries).  LED driving lights on fused supply from solenoid with separate relay triggered by hi-beam relay & switchable.  Switchable fused power for VHF radio off #3 Fuse (again before ancillaries).  Switch panel below dash, VHF radio above.

Have yet to put in the TR8 seat for the driver.  Seat mounts ready for 2 seats.  Not sure there is enough room for TR8 seat for co-driver (load bay in the way??).

Pitter, patter...moving forward.

 Posted: Jul 29, 2018 09:52PM
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Power unit is in the Mini...on to bolting up ancillaries, exhaust & drive shafts...and firing up the engine.  After showing oil pressure, Graham Russell says squirt some WD40 into the bores and drive it, the object to get the rings seated quickly.

Hopefully time for some drives - a 300 mile return trip to Manning Park would do - in addition to a laser alignment.

Off to Kirkland, Washington on the 18th for ALCAN start on the 20th, arriving Fairbanks on the 27th/28th, then to Home down the Alaska Highway to Dawson Creek, on to Prince George, Williams Lake & home by September 5th.

8,100 miles/13,000 kilometres.

Our objective is to get to Fairbanks under our own power, scoring the best we can on TSD stages, enjoying northwestern B.C., the Yukon & Alaska and making a safe return via the Liard River Hot Springs on the Alaska Hwy. north of Muncho Lake.

 Posted: Jul 28, 2018 06:09PM
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Crank had 1 thou run out at the center main and, before the strap (Mini Spares) and machined cap were lapped, the crank would stiffen up 3/4 of the way through a rotation - could still hand rotate but stiff.  After lapping, rotated freely.

As with Alex, not impressed with the machine shop - but what the heck to do, there are no other local options - buggered up one diff output cover bush (I supplied another), then obviously misaligned one of the bushes.  Former machinist made a jig and align honed the two outputs together.  End of problem.  (error small, within 1 thou but enough to stuff things)

Small bore shop (same machine shop business) did not notice that rods are handed - 2 facing forward, 2 rear - so although rods balanced end for end, they were incorrectly indexed.

Soldiering onwards.... 

 Posted: Jul 23, 2018 01:13PM
 Edited:  Jul 23, 2018 03:58PM
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I understand and agree. Just wanted to hear what someone else thinks. I have a couple of four bolt center caps left from when  had them made for vintage race blocks. Had six made installed four put the others on the shelf. I have taken a couple of engines apart with straps. One had a spun center main. Not sure I'd use one having only seen one broken cap life time. Steve (CTR)

Edit: How would you tell if you are distorting? With a dial bore gauge, inside and outside mikes? Assemble and see if it nips the crank when torqued? Not enough to lock just stiff then spins freely till stops and stiff again. If that happened and you remove the strap and torque with std bolts would it still be stiff? And if not would surface grinding both and lapping down to tooth paste correct the stiffness? I have this block that had a strap and spun a bearing. Looking at the contact pattern I wonder what it was doing to the bearing looks like a bar bell down the middle and around the bolt holes. It appears the cap took most of the damage. Could line bore with new 4 bolt. 

 Posted: Jul 23, 2018 08:44AM
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GB

Depends how the machine shop made & installed the strap - something I don't bother with.

The correct way of doing a centre main strap is to surface grind the cap flat, surface grind the bar, then lap the two together to ensure as good a fit as possible.

Milling the top of the cap and then bolting a bit of bar stock onto it is arguably weaker than leaving the cap as it is.  Milling the cap too hard  with a deep cut can distort it.  Once you've distorted the cap you're into line boring again, so why not use a steel main in the first place.

From what I've followed on FB of Rick's build, the machine shop he's using isn't the best...

Me, I'll go steel main before strapping.

 Posted: Jul 22, 2018 12:25PM
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When you say the machine shop did not lap and index the center cap can you give us a little info on that. I know going four bolt center cap requires line boring. What is normal for adding center cap strap? Does it distort the housing bore? Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Jul 20, 2018 09:45PM
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I have eliminated the reverse light switch since it only illuminated the rear taillights...when the law in OZ forbade running & headlights in daytime.

Replacement plug must still work with reverse detent plunger & spring...so correct length.

 Posted: Jul 20, 2018 09:34PM
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Well some time has passed...the 1185cc power unit for ROO has been assembled, into paint, soon to go into the subframe.

Issues, machine shop did not notice there are 2 pairs of rods - 2 facing forward 2 to the flywheel...and so the rods were wrongly indexed (they had the block, crank, rods & new pistons/pins...go figure).

Machine shop did not align hone 2 newly bushed output covers (after damaging a bush on an install attempt) for the Woody's 1293 so another machinist built a jig, align honed the pair, did the new output bushes for ROO...and we still had a little trouble with one yoke output for ROO.  However, we overcame that with ingenuity.

Machine shop machined the center main cap for a strap...but did not lap the two bits together & index.  We sorted that in the garage.

The Keith Calver 1.4:1 steel rockers are a nice piece of kit...but the solid spacer bits ordered separately are neither cross drilled or supplied with enough narrow shims.  So I stripped ROO's std rockers and the springs & spring washers were used with the thin spacers from the kit to get the rockers aligned...all over the valve tips.

And the up-rated head stud kit was short 2 washers & nuts...and no studs for locating the rocker pedestals.  So, once again, I played scavenger.

Whew!

Still ready to put in the front subbie...

 Posted: May 16, 2018 12:42PM
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45 years on the layshaft out of the 1098 is obviously worn with pronounced ridges on the sides on the black bands...have competition shaft to replace.

 Posted: May 12, 2018 07:45PM
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Whew...had been bedeviled by the forward mainshaft nut that would NOT yield to conventional technique - knock back locktab, brace box, use 1 1/2" socket on big breaker bar.  Not only did it not yield, I broke laygear & gear teeth.  Suspected locktite, so put the nut through 3 heat cycles and big breaker bar would still not budge the nut.

Contacted an Aussie expert & on this board, Kevin G. said yes some might use locktite, he once had to cut a nut off.

Today, 25 minutes with the propane torch with 1/4 gears locked, hit it with the rattle gun...20 seconds & the nut spun off!

On to the rest of the disassembly, inspection etc.

 Posted: May 8, 2018 04:30AM
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Thanks, I did a little looking and the Mini Sport smooth a ride trumpets do have a smaller contact area than their std Hi Lo s. They also use a different set of rubber cones. I just don't want to end up with sinking suspension. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: May 5, 2018 02:16PM
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Hi Andrew,

Graham is fine man.  He was a very hospitable host in 2011 & in agreeing to help me with the OEM 12G295 head and related items 12 months ago.

I certainly hope that the build will be true to GR's ideas and prove a successful engine in an uprated power unit.

The serious build related effort is about to get underway.

Cheers!

Rick 

 Posted: May 5, 2018 02:09PM
 Edited:  May 5, 2018 02:19PM
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Steve,

Got sidetracked by pruning some bushes for wife in the hot sun...but did get the parts washer cleaned out before engine & tranny build.

Cones - standard front aluminum cones have a maximum seating width with a diameter of some 2 7/8".  Cheapo hi-los have a seat 3" in max, diameter but a 90 deg. (vs. rolled) edge.

Standard aluminum rear cones & Mini Sport cones have a maximum seating width of 3.25", both with a rolled lip, which equals some +40% more seating area than the cheapo hi-los.

Rick

 Posted: May 5, 2018 10:01AM
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Following this thread with great interest.  A couple of weeks ago, while in Australia for "Mokin' Jervis Bay", I took the opportunity to visit Russell Engineering  (since my family name is Russell, and I am an engineer, and I once had a consulting business named "Russell Engineering", it was kind of a mandatory visit, no?).  Had a very nice visit with Graham at his shop and got to talk a bit about 1098 motors.  In a couple of years, after other projects out of the way, I may follow in your footsteps with upgrading the 1098 in my '73 Moke. 

 Posted: May 5, 2018 04:38AM
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Steve, I will photograph & measure several 'cones' today & post for you.  Rick

 Posted: May 5, 2018 03:42AM
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In regards the larger pin knuckles, I believe they are Mini Sport items as I have run into them before. Could you post a picture of the Hi Lo s that go with them. I have a set that came with a Mini Sport smooth a ride kit. The kit comes with their own shape and formula rubber springs. My concern it the small contact area between cone and spring. I install a lot of springs and Hi Los and they all settle over time. The factory trumpets have a much larger lip. I would expect the size of lip will change spring rate. When vintage racing I considered machining my own hi Lo s with different size spring seats which could be changed to alter spring rate. I hope I never stop thinking about crazy stuff to do. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: May 3, 2018 03:05PM
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After getting antsy earlier today about the wiper motor parts one month after posting from Australia...GUESS what was in the post box this afternoon...(no contest)...the wiper motor parts!

SS reluctor ring & contacts.  Total packaged weight 0.073 kg. or just over 6 oz.

NO Goods & Services Tax (5%), NO Provincial Sales Tax (7%) and NO Canada Post handling fee $9.95.  I guess the envelope looked enough like a letter to finally get right through

Have told Tony in Qld. so he can relax too.

 Posted: May 3, 2018 12:37PM
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Hard to believe 60 days have gone by...power unit work after all cleaning, machining etc. yet to start.  However have beavered away on lots of bits.

Some changes to plan...I had used another prepped subframe after the new RH steering rack went in.  ROO's original front subbie & upper arms will go back in.  Subbie blasted, modified with gussets, stitch welds, lower forward engine steady bracket & captive nuts for front apron & sump guard and into paint.  Upper arms went into molasses/water bath, paint & got new pivot pins/bearings.  And switching out the Mouton Smooth-a-rides for Red Dot Road/Rally with GAZ on car adjustable dampers all round.

Will be using TR7/8 seats and seat mounts have been fabricated.  After the rally these seats will be rebuilt & used in the Woody build.

Lots & lots of other bits (some for the Woody) sand or bead blasted epoxy primed & painted.  Radiator recored for increased efficiency. Will still use an aux rad & oil cooler given the sump guard.

Ordered & received a spread of 5 SU needles in swinging configuration (4 recommended profiles for the engine build were fixed).  Needles recommended by Ken Nelson of Mini Automotive in Ipswich, Qld.  Problem...Burlen forgot about my order for an HIF44 and nows says 12 weeks until they will have another batch.  Darn good thing I have a rebuilt HIF44 on the parts shelf...and another sealed unit from the turbo bits.

Also awaiting wiper motor parts from Australia...SS reluctor ring and 3 finger contacts for 2-speed wiper from Auto Electrics on Wheels in Jimboomba, Qld.  Mailed a month ago.  AusPost says 10+ business days delivery internationally...must be held up in Canada Customs.

Have a 123 dizzy for pre-A plus on order from Canadian distributor...must prod him.

Still need to borrow 2 x 12" alloys for the Yokie 539s & build a suitable addition to my roof racks to carry up to 3 x 10 litre extra fuel cans.  Rally recommends that entrants have a range out to 300 miles.  12.5 Imp. Gallons total should address that.

I think all the outside issues are addressed... 

On the ALCAN Rally all vehicles are required to have a VHF transceiver capable for rally communications.  Have acquired a Kenwood VHF transceiver & roof mount (magnetic) aerial to include reception of the 151.625 rally traffic.  Looking into a Delorme/Garmin InReach GPS with SOS.  Must be at least one Delorme/Garmin unit in each Buddy group on the rally.  We will likely get one anyway as it will allow 2-way communication via internet where cell coverage does not exist, e.g. MacMillan Pass on the Yukon/NWT border at North Canol Camp.

ONE item of unhappiness...

When the engine went in for cleaning, overboring, balancing of bits etc.,  I also took in diff output covers & pot joints with new bushes for install & ream/honing.  These were for the Woody's 1293 power unit...the last items.  Well the shop did not align hone the bearings and one pot joint bound up in the bearing on assembly.  Rather that b...h, I have had another machinist address the problem.  He built a jig for the purpose something the big shop obviously did not do.  Will align hone to 1.5 thou clearance.  Was 1 thou running clearance not enough for the ream/hone error.

ONE puzzle...

Why would MOSS package up 2 SuperPro bushings with 2 non-SuperPro items...all of which are one piece...and then advise me to cut them in half??  The SuperPro items have lubricant and are to be pressed in as SP has advised.  The unrelated part of the puzzle is...I have no idea where the sealed package came from.

Hope no other surprises show up!

My Co-Driver Micke & spouse Eva are flying into Vancouver on August 5th for a week of touristy things before Eva must return to Sweden.  Then it is full on to get set to head south for the Rally start.  Our hope is to finish without drama in Fairbanks with ROO proving once again to be a great little work horse.

Will post again at month-end when we should be closer to the finish & testing. 

 Posted: Mar 5, 2018 07:43PM
 Edited:  Jul 20, 2018 09:49PM
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FedEx arrived today with parcel from the UK with set of two adj. trumpets for thick shaft knuckles & 4 spare knuckles.  Not certain if Diddy Dave's experiences travelling across Canada & into Alaska affected the design but the trumpets take a knuckle with 0.55" dia. shaft vs. 0.5" standard.  Diddy broke a lot of knuckles with his heavily modified & heavy Mini Van, including one when we frolicked down Hwy. 1 on the California Coast while heading to Arizona & MMW 2012.

Also got the drive axles apart, degreased & into molasses/water bath.  Polished the outer CVs before the bath.  Outer CVs will go to the Woody, rotors will go to parts after skim, drive shafts for both ROO & Woody in the swim.  Yokes go back to ROO.

Orange diaphragm on its way from Avonbar.  MED crank damper & tranny bearings/locktabs coming from our local supplier Hunter Classic Sports Cars.  Once diaphragm & crank damper are in hand the rotating bits can be balanced.

Took a closer look at the old Metro drive flanges, happy I took new ones off the shelf.  Imminent failure on the bearing race face.

Pitter patter....

 Posted: Mar 4, 2018 01:12PM
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Update...turned out finding an Orange diaphragm was difficult, NA almost everywhere.  Found 1 at Avonbar, which had 5 in stock, now 4.  On its way across the Atlantic tomorrow.

Engine balancing next up when diaphragm & crank damper are here.

(I have a used orange damper on the shelf...had been behind the 1380 in the sedan & saw 7 years service often with the trailer in tow) 

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