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 Posted: Feb 22, 2018 08:15PM
Total posts: 6446
Last post: Jul 30, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
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Work continues to get ROO built up for the ALCAN 5000 Summer Rally in August.

Centre main cap being machined for strap before align hone.  Race quality bearings in hand. New oil pump.  Rally clutch spring/diaphragm on its way to go with AP rally plate. All new bearing set for the transmission...don't know about the synchros yet.  Quality crank damper on its way as are other misc. bits.

Was sick for 2 weeks, getting back in stride.

Have new steering rack, modified front subframe installed with Red dot cones, thick shaft (0.55") hi-los, refreshed HD adj lower arms & tie-rods both with new bushes, new upper arms, new hubs, ball joints & outer CVs.

Even the fabbed bumper (to save the Clubbie original) has turned out OK. 

2 sacks of smaller bits blasted & into epoxy primer...the dance goes on.  

 Posted: Jan 26, 2018 08:09PM
 Edited:  Jan 29, 2018 09:50AM
Total posts: 6446
Last post: Jul 30, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
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Who can hide with what under canvas in a Mini van?  Man with cutting wheel would be the correct answer...specifically John G.

Purpose to gain access to the void behind the RH driver's seat to relocate the battery (a new battery with side posts) so the driver's seat can be moved back a little.

Presto...done.  Steel cut out flanged with spot welded tabs to be dropped right back into the hole!

 Posted: Jan 26, 2018 01:06PM
Total posts: 7826
Last post: Aug 20, 2018
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
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CA
Remember the old days when we used to be able to lift the front end of a Mini out of a ditch?
I haven't had heart surgery (yet) but have 2 cardiologists and a GP eyeing me suspiciously. Had cancer treatment a couple of years back - chemo caused muscle damage, leaving muscles prone to easy straining. I can lift but need to expect sore muscles for the next few days. Sometimes I have to say to myself "Noooo....".

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jan 26, 2018 08:29AM
Total posts: 6446
Last post: Jul 30, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
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OK Tamer...same address, same phone, same email...though ROO will likely be 8 miles away at my son's garage.

Dan, that was John G in the engine bay and my 'partner in crime' does not know our late friend.  Robin would have liked the attached photo (and may have seen it)...post-heart surgery, over 70 years old, still can lift a little.

 Posted: Jan 26, 2018 05:08AM
Total posts: 7826
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Member since:Aug 14, 2002
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Nice progress, Rick. You missed a chance to pose waving from the engine bay, in tribute to Zippythepinhead, AKA our old friend Robin. (You came close, though.)

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jan 25, 2018 09:55PM
Total posts: 1985
Last post: Aug 17, 2018
Member since:Oct 9, 2003
Cars in Garage: 2
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CA
Hey Rick,
I may be in your neck of the woods for a couple days in about 2 weeks.
If time permits, I would like see it in person  

check out the official website for updates!!!!!  //www.minimeetnorth.com

 

 Posted: Jan 25, 2018 08:07PM
Total posts: 6446
Last post: Jul 30, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
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Better day in the garage - ROO has colour over high build primer...suspension bits I did yesterday look good.

Will lower front end tomorrow and get to work on locating a new battery under the load deck...about a foot back, so the driver's seat can also be located further back.

Then only install of new steering rack, fresh front sub frame with refreshed & new bits to get 4 wheels on the ground.

Pitter, patter.... 

 Posted: Jan 24, 2018 07:35PM
Total posts: 6446
Last post: Jul 30, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
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Good day in the garage...engine bay & wheel wells prepped for epoxy primer, later gravel guard on the lower portion & wheel wells.

Blasted HD/Adj lower arms & tie-rods and wiggly pins...got them into epoxy primer & paint.  And the fabricated bumper!

 Posted: Jan 23, 2018 10:10PM
Total posts: 6446
Last post: Jul 30, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
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The new front bumper will be spaced from the apron by 2 bits I found in the plumbing aisle and supported by some steel I got from the supply shop...we'll make brackets & weld them to the 'new bumper'.

 Posted: Jan 23, 2018 08:59PM
Total posts: 6446
Last post: Jul 30, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
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Took a NEW pot joint & 3 diff side covers with NEW bushes to the machine shop for ream/hone.  Question - how much running clearance between inputs & new bushes?

Well advice is all over the lot from 1 - 2 thou...not really a big difference but 2 is sloppier.

Since I had 2 more NEW pot joints I took them up to the machine shop & said get out the micrometer & measure.  Well, there was 3 thou difference between the 3 pot inputs...and 1 was neither round nor true.

My instruction, grind the larger 2 pot inputs to match the true smaller one & ream/hone the new bushes to give 1 thou running clearance.  Will have 3 matched pairs with 3 more to go! 

 Posted: Jan 23, 2018 05:44AM
Total posts: 1909
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Member since:Aug 29, 2001
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great reporting- keep it coming. Thanks

 Posted: Jan 22, 2018 08:18PM
Total posts: 6446
Last post: Jul 30, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
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CA
Well spent time removing front sub frame, steering rack and old gravel guard from the front of the shell.

Interesting find was a Wiggly Pin bush that was new 3 1/2 years ago and badly deteriorated...unlike the other 3!

Not sure the Metro drive flanges are reuseable...recession visible on both.

Degreasing and surface rust treatment...latter must dry for 24 hours before fresh water wash of excess.

So we got started on making a front bumper to replace the Clubman item.  Replacement will be no more robust than the Clubbie item but can be sacrificed if necessary.

While getting the steel for the bumper, I also got a battery to go under the load bed on the rear side of the support panel (front side is stock)...to provide more room to place the driver's seat a little further back.  We'll cut an access hole in the load deck to install & secure the battery and flange the cut out to drop back in!

 Posted: Jan 21, 2018 05:15PM
Total posts: 6446
Last post: Jul 30, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
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Moved ROO today for front sub frame & rack removal, cleanup, prime & paint of engine bay, slam panel & bonnet.

Need to be out in 5-6 days as another Mini scheduled in.  Will be on it in the a.m.

Pitter patter

 Posted: Jan 16, 2018 10:04PM
Total posts: 6446
Last post: Jul 30, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
CA
Back from Victoria with 5 A008s for the Woody, 2 A539s for spares, and everything from lightweight flywheel & backing plate to motor mounts to speedo cables & windscreen.

Tomorrow a.m. 2 transmissions - one for the Woody almost built and one from the Mini Van to disassemble for inspection.

 Posted: Jan 14, 2018 06:02PM
 Edited:  Jan 14, 2018 10:31PM
Total posts: 6446
Last post: Jul 30, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
CA
Proform product Ron...

Good news from Machine shop, our early guess is correct.  Crank is now clean, checked for crack(s) - none, checked for straightness - straight, journals polished - all standard/standard.  Machine shop, "Good crank!"

Block is now free of debris, paint etc.  Will go up with new +100 piston in the a.m. so boring can be set to give 1.5-2 thou running clearance in the bores.

Off to Victoria on Tuesday a.m. for 2 new A539s for spares, lightweight flywheel & backing plate & a few other bits...also, 5 A008s for the Woody project, windscreens & other items for VMC members.

 Posted: Jan 13, 2018 07:54PM
Total posts: 390
Last post: Jul 15, 2018
Member since:Mar 27, 2002
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Hey Rick, I don't know what you use for treating the rust but I've used Rust Mort with excellent results. Looking good!

Ron

 

Cool

 Posted: Jan 13, 2018 06:49PM
Total posts: 6446
Last post: Jul 30, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
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A week away from getting into the garage to remove front subbie & steering rack for final cleanup, prep & paint of the engine bay.

So, I decided to expose the old floors, vacuum up debris and degrease them.

Next, abraid the paint & rust, vacuum, treat rust chemically, primer & paint.

Amazing how good the floors are after 45 years.

 Posted: Jan 9, 2018 06:33PM
Total posts: 6446
Last post: Jul 30, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
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Interesting time today...a good friend in the VMC asked if he could take some measurements & photos of ROO with engine out.

He is again rebuilding an originally South African built Mini Van that he has owned for more than 35 years.  In fact, he drove across Canada to MME in 1981 at Ste. Marguerite, Quebec with his wife & infant daughter.

The challenge...no front end on the Van & pillars & windscreen surround already modified for flush mount of windscreen.

So we got out masking tape, tapes, straight edges...and tried to get photos & measurements that will allow custom build of removable front end with flaired wings, from bottom of windscreen frame to nose...given that the bonnet will be extended width wise to cross the top of the wings and be hinged at the front.

Modified front sub-frame to hold Honda power unit...will be interesting to see the final result after paint.

 Posted: Jan 9, 2018 06:10PM
Total posts: 6446
Last post: Jul 30, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
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CA
Block, main caps & crank into machine shop for mag test and block into hot tank.

If block OK (which I expect)...will be over-bored for the RE +100 pistons/rings.  Will take new piston to shop so boring will be done right.

If crank mags OK, then maybe just a polish before getting prepped for rebuild.

 Posted: Jan 9, 2018 07:22AM
Total posts: 6446
Last post: Jul 30, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
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OK, engine bay empty, 1098 broken down, tranny ready for disassembly.

Neither my son Jeremy nor I could believe the condition of the cam & crank.  The lobes & journals (& rod & main bearings) looked like new.

Cam will be replaced by RE 266SS grind - crank to be crack tested before polish.

Left block to drip remaining oil before it goes for crack test & hot tank.

12G202 head on the parts shelf as the GR worked 12G295 will replace it in the build.  If I were in Australia GR would be interested in the 202.  Could be the basis for a 998 or 1098 build up. Finding the 295 thanks to Sxsman shortened the journey.

Helped a friend get his hubs torqued up last night...when his Countryman leaves, ROO will go in for front subframe & rack removal, prep & paint for the engine bay.

Pitter, patter....

Found 61 Messages

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