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 Posted: Jan 23, 2018 10:10PM
Total posts: 6410
Last post: May 16, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
CA
The new front bumper will be spaced from the apron by 2 bits I found in the plumbing aisle and supported by some steel I got from the supply shop...we'll make brackets & weld them to the 'new bumper'.

 Posted: Jan 23, 2018 08:59PM
Total posts: 6410
Last post: May 16, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
CA
Took a NEW pot joint & 3 diff side covers with NEW bushes to the machine shop for ream/hone.  Question - how much running clearance between inputs & new bushes?

Well advice is all over the lot from 1 - 2 thou...not really a big difference but 2 is sloppier.

Since I had 2 more NEW pot joints I took them up to the machine shop & said get out the micrometer & measure.  Well, there was 3 thou difference between the 3 pot inputs...and 1 was neither round nor true.

My instruction, grind the larger 2 pot inputs to match the true smaller one & ream/hone the new bushes to give 1 thou running clearance.  Will have 3 matched pairs with 3 more to go! 

 Posted: Jan 23, 2018 05:44AM
Total posts: 1900
Last post: May 7, 2018
Member since:Aug 29, 2001
Cars in Garage: 0
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great reporting- keep it coming. Thanks

 Posted: Jan 22, 2018 08:18PM
Total posts: 6410
Last post: May 16, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
CA
Well spent time removing front sub frame, steering rack and old gravel guard from the front of the shell.

Interesting find was a Wiggly Pin bush that was new 3 1/2 years ago and badly deteriorated...unlike the other 3!

Not sure the Metro drive flanges are reuseable...recession visible on both.

Degreasing and surface rust treatment...latter must dry for 24 hours before fresh water wash of excess.

So we got started on making a front bumper to replace the Clubman item.  Replacement will be no more robust than the Clubbie item but can be sacrificed if necessary.

While getting the steel for the bumper, I also got a battery to go under the load bed on the rear side of the support panel (front side is stock)...to provide more room to place the driver's seat a little further back.  We'll cut an access hole in the load deck to install & secure the battery and flange the cut out to drop back in!

 Posted: Jan 21, 2018 05:15PM
Total posts: 6410
Last post: May 16, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
CA
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Moved ROO today for front sub frame & rack removal, cleanup, prime & paint of engine bay, slam panel & bonnet.

Need to be out in 5-6 days as another Mini scheduled in.  Will be on it in the a.m.

Pitter patter

 Posted: Jan 16, 2018 10:04PM
Total posts: 6410
Last post: May 16, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
CA
Back from Victoria with 5 A008s for the Woody, 2 A539s for spares, and everything from lightweight flywheel & backing plate to motor mounts to speedo cables & windscreen.

Tomorrow a.m. 2 transmissions - one for the Woody almost built and one from the Mini Van to disassemble for inspection.

 Posted: Jan 14, 2018 06:02PM
 Edited:  Jan 14, 2018 10:31PM
Total posts: 6410
Last post: May 16, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
CA
Proform product Ron...

Good news from Machine shop, our early guess is correct.  Crank is now clean, checked for crack(s) - none, checked for straightness - straight, journals polished - all standard/standard.  Machine shop, "Good crank!"

Block is now free of debris, paint etc.  Will go up with new +100 piston in the a.m. so boring can be set to give 1.5-2 thou running clearance in the bores.

Off to Victoria on Tuesday a.m. for 2 new A539s for spares, lightweight flywheel & backing plate & a few other bits...also, 5 A008s for the Woody project, windscreens & other items for VMC members.

 Posted: Jan 13, 2018 07:54PM
Total posts: 387
Last post: May 11, 2018
Member since:Mar 27, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 15
WorkBench Posts: 0
CA
Hey Rick, I don't know what you use for treating the rust but I've used Rust Mort with excellent results. Looking good!

Ron

 

Cool

 Posted: Jan 13, 2018 06:49PM
Total posts: 6410
Last post: May 16, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
CA
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A week away from getting into the garage to remove front subbie & steering rack for final cleanup, prep & paint of the engine bay.

So, I decided to expose the old floors, vacuum up debris and degrease them.

Next, abraid the paint & rust, vacuum, treat rust chemically, primer & paint.

Amazing how good the floors are after 45 years.

 Posted: Jan 9, 2018 06:33PM
Total posts: 6410
Last post: May 16, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
CA
Interesting time today...a good friend in the VMC asked if he could take some measurements & photos of ROO with engine out.

He is again rebuilding an originally South African built Mini Van that he has owned for more than 35 years.  In fact, he drove across Canada to MME in 1981 at Ste. Marguerite, Quebec with his wife & infant daughter.

The challenge...no front end on the Van & pillars & windscreen surround already modified for flush mount of windscreen.

So we got out masking tape, tapes, straight edges...and tried to get photos & measurements that will allow custom build of removable front end with flaired wings, from bottom of windscreen frame to nose...given that the bonnet will be extended width wise to cross the top of the wings and be hinged at the front.

Modified front sub-frame to hold Honda power unit...will be interesting to see the final result after paint.

 Posted: Jan 9, 2018 06:10PM
Total posts: 6410
Last post: May 16, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
CA
Block, main caps & crank into machine shop for mag test and block into hot tank.

If block OK (which I expect)...will be over-bored for the RE +100 pistons/rings.  Will take new piston to shop so boring will be done right.

If crank mags OK, then maybe just a polish before getting prepped for rebuild.

 Posted: Jan 9, 2018 07:22AM
Total posts: 6410
Last post: May 16, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
CA
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OK, engine bay empty, 1098 broken down, tranny ready for disassembly.

Neither my son Jeremy nor I could believe the condition of the cam & crank.  The lobes & journals (& rod & main bearings) looked like new.

Cam will be replaced by RE 266SS grind - crank to be crack tested before polish.

Left block to drip remaining oil before it goes for crack test & hot tank.

12G202 head on the parts shelf as the GR worked 12G295 will replace it in the build.  If I were in Australia GR would be interested in the 202.  Could be the basis for a 998 or 1098 build up. Finding the 295 thanks to Sxsman shortened the journey.

Helped a friend get his hubs torqued up last night...when his Countryman leaves, ROO will go in for front subframe & rack removal, prep & paint for the engine bay.

Pitter, patter....

 Posted: Jan 7, 2018 02:16PM
Total posts: 1440
Last post: May 19, 2018
Member since:Oct 18, 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
That removable slam panel which i am guessing is unique to Aussie window vans (as i have not seen it on UK Clubman Estates) sure makes life a lot easier when removing the engine/box.
Standard fitting on all square fronted Oz Minis....

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Jan 7, 2018 12:43PM
Total posts: 7519
Last post: May 22, 2018
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
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That removable slam panel which i am guessing is unique to Aussie window vans (as i have not seen it on UK Clubman Estates) sure makes life a lot easier when removing the engine/box.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: Jan 4, 2018 02:15PM
Total posts: 1900
Last post: May 7, 2018
Member since:Aug 29, 2001
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I am enjoying your work, the pictures,  and appreciate (like you) the helpers. Mine got their hands dirty like this with our mini.
Keep the photos coming
Thanks, Harvey

 Posted: Jan 4, 2018 02:08PM
 Edited:  Jan 4, 2018 05:06PM
Total posts: 6410
Last post: May 16, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
CA
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Day 3 A very short one, engine out, wiring harness disconnected, headlamp buckets out....

However, I promised a photo...when the exhaust strap fails, as in 1st photo, this is what the u-joint does to the downpipe, photo 2.

Amazing thing NO NOISE and pipe not breached.

Will degrease engine/transmission tomorrow, before separating, and get started on engine bay clean up.

 Posted: Jan 4, 2018 08:17AM
Total posts: 6410
Last post: May 16, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
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Day 2 (1/2 days only)...engine bay stripped ready to lift out the power unit. Key helpers my son & grandson, the latter learning how to work the hoist.

More good reasons to have taken ROO off the road...rust in & fraying of the throttle cable, clutch master locating pin (NEW in 2014) corroded & worn (difficult to extract), exhaust bracket at transmission broken, leads into...wait until you see the photo of the down pipe later today.

All bits bagged and/or boxed & labeled.

Seats, carpet & underlay out to get at rack & sub frame bolts...found a 20 cent OZ coin & US quarter dollar.  Looking at the OZ coin, it must have been there awhile.

Was easier to get the radiator out than when Peter & I turned the fan around the right way on Kinkuna Street in Wishart, Qld. 6 1/2 years ago.  Rear mounting bracket for alternator different because bolt locations in block are lower.  Whole exhaust system looks like scrap.

Musing about drilling & tapping block for a drain cock at back below #4 cylinder.

On to Day 3....

 Posted: Jan 3, 2018 11:44AM
Total posts: 7519
Last post: May 22, 2018
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
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That is one long intake !!! Looking at the clearances you may be better off moving the whole engine forward in the sub frame as they did in the last of the HIF carbed 90's Mini's and use also the later 1275 stabilizer bar maybe even the shorter dash pot plunger.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: Jan 3, 2018 09:39AM
 Edited:  Jan 4, 2018 08:39AM
Total posts: 6410
Last post: May 16, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
CA
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Day 1  And so it begins...ROO into my son's garage, disassembly commenced...front apron cross member out with removal of 7 bolts in captured nuts!  And, some test fitting...of a Russell Engineering long runner intake for HIF44 (before pulling the lump).

Timely park up for removal/rebuild...chunk missing from flange of standard clamped exhaust union at intake/exhaust manifold, float bowl gasket wanted to leak on emptying fuel from carb....

More today...my thanks to Son Jeremy & Grandson Kaden!

 Posted: Dec 30, 2017 11:11PM
Total posts: 6410
Last post: May 16, 2018
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354
WorkBench Posts: 2
CA
Jonathan/Sxsman,

Power unit is being pulled shortly for complete rebuild.  The end result an 1185cc build after Graham Russell.  Thanks to your ahem 'heads up', I bought the OEM 12G295 head from Speedwell last January, took it to Australia in April & Graham as you have probably seen.

Came home with modified head, larger Paul Ivey race valves, RE 100+ pistons/rings, RE 266SS cam/lifters/pushrods, Cooper S springs, head gaskets & RE long runner intake for HIF44.

Have since brought in Keith Calver 1.4:1 steel rockers...expecting lightweight flywheel & backing plate any day.  Have misc. bits, engine, tranny gasket sets, cam bearings, etc.

Will use Cooper Freeflow header & twin box, rally clutch spring & standard disc.  May use 123 distributor.

First, strip engine & gearbox.  Crank & rods should be OK for prep & reuse (& not using any oil).  Tranny will need a good look - I have new steel baulk rings, new cross pin diff & new U-joint outputs & new AH & TR greaseable drive axle U-joints for QH set up.  We might pressurize the nose of the new competition layshaft.  The aluminium pit!

My son Jeremy will give me a hand getting the power unit out.  I'll remove, master cylinders, wiper motor & rack etc. & clean up the engine bay before the Mini goes for engine bay & under bonnet paint, front subbie & steering rack will come out where painting to be done.

Have freshly modified & painted front subbie to take all the front suspension bits (after inspect/clean up) and a new RH steering rack to go in.

So lots to do to get ready for the ALCAN 5000 Summer Rally 2018 in August.

First up in 2018 our Mini Club's New Year's Day run named after CHRIS CARTER, a young Member who died tragically as the result of a driver turning left in front of his motor cycle.  Chris would hop in his Mini & go for a drive...for any reason or none at all.

Mini into the garage January 2.

Rick/Hunter2

Found 53 Messages

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