Metalwright, my Haynes manual has a transmission chapter. It's for sale if you're looking.... seem my thread.. make offer.. Thanks!

https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/122601/1/1/Books_and_magazines_for_sale

Ok, thanks for that intel!  I'll grab those issues then!

The gearbox teardown is split across multiple issues, part1 is in the Feb 2018 issue (which went on sale early January), part2 in March 2018 and part3 in April 2018 issue which went on sale this week (March).

No, makes no sense to me either but all the magazines do it - a hangover from the days of physical printed distribution I guess. I subscribe to the online edition.

Regarding primary gear wear - end float is what's important. Remember that the bearing is only being used when the clutch pedal is pressed down, so very little of the engine running time in total.  But when it is being used, it's effectively pushing the crankshaft in the opposite direction to the clutch plate.  So you want correct tolerance on the end float so it doesn't judder.

Back in the 80s my daily driver was a mini 998 with a 1275 metro engine on top. I didn't have the correct wider A-series primary gear for the 1275 A+ crank, so I just reamed the phosphor bronze bearing completely out of of the 998 gear and used that. Steel on steel and never any problems with binding, just use neutral when sitting at the lights...

Got the January 2018 issue of Mini Magazine.

Do not see article on gearbox teardown..  Do see an article on selecting the correct final drive, however.

I did a video of my misadventures:

 

https://youtu.be/MIjQqr_MPaM

I hope you find it entertaining...

Dang, 2012 was so long ago...  Blink and you miss it!

Hahahahhahaaaa!

Aaron/metalwright

Sorry to hear of your troubles

Checking my records, it appears l sold you that OZ moke with the 1098cc engine 9 years ago

And sadly the warranty ran out this past Dec 31st

But in any event good luck with the rebuild

Big AL

Very bad practice?

I’d say I had a lot of good practice! Spank gets even more practice in.

The modern grownup days of doing everything perfectly right are a bit dull. I haven’t even started a mini in -35°C in three years, let alone left in bad conditions to go 500+ miles. I even bought a nice mini to drive all the time and it sits in the garage with a toboggan on the roof. What have I become?

I'm not sure a jewelers file is going to help with this one. Just so you know this is the result of assembling flywheel upside down. That would be with the off set key slot 180 degrees out and the keyed washer and bolt tightened with a impact. I was contacted about a flywheel that would not come off. Having been down this road before I ordered a crank before letting the car in the shop. What started as a clutch job will be a crank, bearings, flywheel, clutch oil pump, timing chain and tensioner. Started yesterday, plan to complete power unit today and return car tomorrow. While a little off topic I thought it is worth sharing. Steve (CTR)

Thanks for posting. 

Photo posted for Steve (CTR)

Going to go though this today, As mentioned, you can pull the rollers out of the most of the time plastic retainer then remove the plastic part. I have a Snap On battery post terminal puller which catches the edge and pulls them right off. As for the outer race which should always be replaced as a set, I weld a ring around the bore of the race (not the case ) flip it over and the ring should come out. Of course the snap ring and retaining ring  for the first motion shaft support bearing must be removed. As for the idler bearing in the housing, I drop a bolt in it and weld the bolt head to the bearing and use a long bar with a correct size hole and place it across the housing and use a nut to pull the bearing while still hot. Because I sometimes get paid for what I do I feel I have to hold a very high standard. Steve (CTR)

Edit: As for the Haynes ( book of lies as Zip liked to call it ) they are not all the same. They come in different cover colors and some are chocked full of info and others offer little or nothing about trannys.  

There's a very comprehensive guide to dismantling a gearbox in the January edition of Mini Mag.

Remember that that bearing is matched to the outer ring in the transfer housing - they should not be swapped about willy nilly, though Spank will inevitably tell you that you can do it with no problems at all (which is mostly true, it's just very bad practice).

Carefully remove the rollers from the cage, slip the plastic cage off, knock back the lock tabs on the input gear nut, undo the nut with an 1-1/8" AF deep socket.  You'll run out of thread before the inner race is fully off the end of the 1st motion shaft, but screwing the nut back on will give you enough purchase with a puller.

Do you really NEED (or WANT) to replace that bearing? or are you just trying to take it off so you can get the 1st motion shaft out and replace baulk rings?

If you are just trying to get to the baulk rings, that bearing can stay on.

Ok, I got the circlip off, and soon figured out the bearing wasn't wanting to come off intact, perhaps because I can't get far enough behind it..

My Haynes manual says to take the gearbox to a specialist!  Maybe I'm in the wrong section..

Remove the retaining circlip and fit an appropriate puller, and off it comes. In bits and pieces. Wait till you try to get the race out of the drop gear case! You are about to have a great time. Soon you will try to remove the large circlip holding the first motion shaft bearing. It will fly across the room with great enthusiasm.

While it is nice to do this alongside someone who has done it before, the Haynes manual does a good job of describing the tasks in order.

Yeah, I really think I'm just jamming it back on the way it is.  

In other news, how is this bearing supposed to come off?  I looked in the Haynes manual, and it said something to the effect of "Yer dumb, don't disassemble yer gearboxes."

The only time I have had issues with the primary gear the crank seemed spooky and upon removal it failed crack testing. I suspect that even a small crack that is not spreading and not turning into a catastrophic failure  will cause issue with these bushings.

Pulling the one from the 1098 is certainly a viable option. I got no beef wit dat. Getting it out and putting it back in the 1275 primary in a condition that's better than what's currently in there requires a considerable amount of skill and/or tooling. BTDT and it doesn't go so smoothly as it is explained on the internet. You are more skilled, mur, than you let on. (sorta like putting a 1275 head on a small bore block; it is easier to type it than do it ).  Once you get the 1098 bush to move at all, then it goes fairly easily. It's getting it to initially budge and without mushrooming an edge, deforming or chipping that's the problem. At least for me. I know Larry build a special insert out of aluminum to pull them and I've thought to make one out of the tail of a broken crank, but haven't yet.

I've also installed a NOS front bushing: After installing it, no machine shop local to me would touch it. Well, one specialist shop within driving distance would, but at the cost greater than purchasing a new complete primary gear.

If his crank cracks because he took my advice and reuses the primary gear with the scored bushing, I'll replace it FOC, shipping included.

I'm simply offering Use It as another viable option.

To be fair Spank, I did suggest he use the rear bush from the 1098 primary gear.

Some do make a great fuss over these. I really only have issues when the crank cracks.