Clutch Return Stop Adjustment
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Feb 23, 2018 05:44AM | Dan Moffet | |
Feb 23, 2018 05:21AM | onetim | |
Feb 22, 2018 11:36PM | Alex | |
Feb 22, 2018 08:29PM | 1963SV2 | Edited: Feb 22, 2018 08:34PM |
Feb 22, 2018 06:46PM | Craig | |
Feb 22, 2018 03:04PM | Alex | |
Feb 22, 2018 01:50PM | 1963SV2 | |
Feb 22, 2018 05:05AM | Dan Moffet | |
Feb 22, 2018 03:46AM | 1963SV2 | |
Feb 21, 2018 07:03AM | CooperTune | |
Feb 20, 2018 08:37PM | Rosebud | |
Feb 20, 2018 08:35PM | Rosebud | Edited: Feb 20, 2018 08:50PM |
Feb 20, 2018 05:28PM | Dan Moffet | |
Feb 20, 2018 05:16PM | minimans | |
Feb 20, 2018 05:13PM | Dan Moffet | |
Feb 20, 2018 04:36PM | Rosebud | |
Feb 20, 2018 02:58PM | Alex | |
Feb 19, 2018 08:38PM | Rosebud | Edited: Feb 19, 2018 08:47PM |
Feb 19, 2018 06:29AM | onetim | |
Feb 19, 2018 05:56AM | CooperTune |
Found 30 Messages
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Wear in any part of the assembly - pedal hole, clevis pin, or pushrod yoke - will affect it in the same manner as raising the master cylinder with thicker components, but to put it in basic principles to get the idea across we forget about it.
It's a bit like taking gravity as 10 m/s/s instead of 9.81 m/s/s to make things easier while learning about acceleration.
.
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Wear in any part of the assembly - pedal hole, clevis pin, or pushrod yoke - will affect it in the same manner as raising the master cylinder with thicker components, but to put it in basic principles to get the idea across we forget about it.
It's a bit like taking gravity as 10 m/s/s instead of 9.81 m/s/s to make things easier while learning about acceleration.
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Forget slack in the linkages.
The clutch pedal is held in the up position by the master cylinder sitting on its bottom stop - unconnected the pedal will spring up and nigh-on touch the dashboard.
If the master cylinder is raised vertically by means of a thicker gasket and/or a thicker baseplate, the pedal will naturally sit closer to the floor.
As the pedal is closer to the floor before you depress it, it has a shorter distance to travel before it hits the floor and therefore displaces less fluid to the slave.
I suspect this is what i have inadvertantly done, as the clutch is sooo neeeearly disengaging but crunches if you're not super careful.
If the master piston is stopping the pedal moving up (if.....well it obviously is then the master push rod linkage is in tension. When you press the pedal down the master push rod linkage moves into compression. Any wear in the master clevis pin or its holes shows as lost motion as the linkage moves from tension to compression. Lost motion means the pedal moves down some distance before the piston starts moving.
Ie ..you've used up some of your pedal travel with no useful motion passed to the release bearing.....
I hadn't fully thought out the implications of the master piston always sitting on the bottom of the cylinder (even though the workshop manual shows this).
So it would appear that the solution is not to add gaskets but to remove them (not forgetting the metal plate ... but noting that on RHD cars this is also the engine steady anchor) .... or maybe lengthening the master push rod ..but maybe I already suggested that....
Cheers, Ian
Shouldn't be too smug ... Was suggesting it for the wrong reason
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'72 Morris Mini - 1310cc, K1100 head conversion
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Forget slack in the linkages.
The clutch pedal is held in the up position by the master cylinder sitting on its bottom stop - unconnected the pedal will spring up and nigh-on touch the dashboard.
If the master cylinder is raised vertically by means of a thicker gasket and/or a thicker baseplate, the pedal will naturally sit closer to the floor.
As the pedal is closer to the floor before you depress it, it has a shorter distance to travel before it hits the floor and therefore displaces less fluid to the slave.
I suspect this is what i have inadvertantly done, as the clutch is sooo neeeearly disengaging but crunches if you're not super careful.
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Wonder if I've raised the master cylinder too high which is why I've got release issues on the raceweight flywheel/clutch assembly ?
cheers, ian
If the piston is not bottoming out then its travel is determined by the top and bottom (pedal hits floor) od pedal travel.
AIUI (and would much appreciate guidance if I'm not thinking this right) What is important is "effective" piston travel. Inside the cylinder is a port that allows fluid to travel between the cylinder and the fluid reservoir (the tin can). As you press the pedal the piston rises and pushes fluid out of the cylinder into the reservoir. The clutch diaphragm is the load that stops fluid moving towards the slave while it can otherwise escape freely into the reservoir..... disregarding any wear/slop that allows the pedal to travel before the piston starts to move..... As pedal travel continues, this port is closed as the main cup moves past it. Further pedal travel now pushes fluid down to the slave and at this point the clutch starts to release (again assuming no slop in the linkages). The "effective" piston travel is the distance from the top of the port to the top of piston travel.
This gets smaller as you lift the cylinder ....by adding gaskets under it.
Extra gaskets are only a benefit if the "as assembled" arrangement sees the transfer port below the lip of the seal....
Discuss...
Cheers, Ian
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Wonder if I've raised the master cylinder too high which is why I've got release issues on the raceweight flywheel/clutch assembly ?
cheers, ian
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Wonder if I've raised the master cylinder too high which is why I've got release issues on the raceweight flywheel/clutch assembly ?
cheers, ian
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Quote:
Increasing the travel of the master would increase the travel of the slave??
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What I think he meant was increasing the gasket thickness would increase the pedal travel to actuate the master (AKA more slack) which would reduce the effective movement of the slave, arm etc.
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Wonder if I've raised the master cylinder too high which is why I've got release issues on the raceweight flywheel/clutch assembly ?
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Wonder if I've raised the master cylinder too high which is why I've got release issues on the raceweight flywheel/clutch assembly ?
Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch
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Wonder if I've raised the master cylinder too high which is why I've got release issues on the raceweight flywheel/clutch assembly ?
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Wonder if I've raised the master cylinder too high which is why I've got release issues on the raceweight flywheel/clutch assembly ?
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The standard gasket under the master cylinder and engine steady plate is actually really thin, I've replaced one of mine with the DSN cover and a pretty cork gasket that I cut out... Wonder if I've raised the master cylinder too high which is why I've got release issues on the raceweight flywheel/clutch assembly ?
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...I believe he was asking about the small bolt that holds the clutch lever out to remove excess slack.
...I also do something else I won't share here.
Just what was it that you did, Steve?
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As for the over throw nuts, I bought a old open end wrench the right size and ground it down to the correct thickness so I can truly jamb the nuts together. I know some people just saw the threaded part off and go on. Steve (CTR)
Found 30 Messages