Hahaha two clamps bolted to the body. You don't have a clue what your talking about. You know nothing. Your an idiot,stupid ass jerk.piss off.

/a>

Darren, anywhere you see black soot on an exhaust connection is a leak, muffler mud smeared into these locations will stop the leak as long as the system is not loose. On my mini I have a second muffler or resonator located where your long straight pipe is.
I have had other mini owners comment on how quiet the car is when puttering around a parking lot, but it’s still loud when ripping along. I think this is just how a classic mini should be, plus a bunch of buzzes and a little rattling. 

Yea I suppose this car does have a LCB, to be honest I didn’t look back at pictures. Worked on a lot of minis lately, it’s a really nice toned exhaust actually

i don’t remember if these pictures are PRE engine removal and gearbox rebuild or after. either way the are clamped and tack welded. Just habit doing so. 

Sorry. Malsal has it right. It does look like the pipe is welded to the collector, that is not all bad. You need to grind off those two small welds on the header, and get the collector pipe to fit better. Cheers

Will you bloody well stop posting. No body needs to read your S***e. Now piss off.

hmmmm, looks like the 2 clamps were there to plug a hole in the pipe, that's how i see it.,, i honestly suspect that the driver of the truck took the mini for a spin before he haul it in the trailer, that's why it took him 1 1/2 hr to load it.  He went for a long ride and probably went off road with the mini and drove it like he stole it that's why the exhaust and the linkage were damaged so badly.  We need to investigate the truck driver.  Can someone ask the driver to sign up here and explain his side of the story? 

Err i don't think so. From the pics posted it looks to have a LCB 3 into 2 into 1 header on it, factory would have been a single cast iron manifold attached to the inlet manifold which btw is also aftermarket. None of it matters as it is basically a stage one improvement as long as it functions correctly and does not leak.

Fit a standard shifter first before you go spending money you probably don't need to. As stated the quick shifts can be finiky some folks love them a lot of folks hate them but a used shifter is cheap and may cure the shifting issue.
The problems you have posted are relatively simple fixes unless the shifting is another issue.
The main thing is the body is rust free the rest is easy and a whole lot cheaper to repair, take a breath do one job at a time.

There should be a clamp after the Y branch unless it is welded. The two header tubes connecting to the Y branch although clamped look to be leaking and tack welded. These should not be welded as it renders the header useless when trying to remove it at a later date. That being said they only look like they are tack welded so they could be ground off easily.

I am beginning to think that you do not actually exist but are in a fact a rogue algorithm which springs into action at random times.

Your advices(sic) are indeed "precious".

Your double major in psychology is easily offset by your single digit score when it comes to comprehension.

The odds of both the shifter mechanism and the exhaust BOTH being damaged are high, given the proximity of one to the other, especially when loading/unloading.

You may have heard the expression, 'measure twice, cut once'?

I suggest you apply the following, 'think twice, do not post' - not one your posts ever makes sense.

OK, so someone remind me why we haven't seen any pix of this Mini in PEI yet?
(I can't keep track of all the excuses and wild accusations, back and forth between fake posters and whatnot anymore)  - we need a matrix.

Darren sent me pictures yesterday, but the email came in only this afternoon (I blame MicroSoft). The photos appear to be from Braden, pre-shipping (they therefore wouldn't show shipping damage!).
The first photo is of the engine bay for reference. I see a MiniSpares type alloy intake manifold, which suggests the presence of an exhaust header.
The other 2 photos show the Y-pipe of what is probably of a long-centre- branch header.
Darren is asking if you think the clamps appear tight enough.
Should there be a clamp where the Y-pipe joins the long pipe?

My opinions:
The presence of a steel tube header answers part of his loudness question: cast iron exhaust manifolds absorb a considerable amount of exhaust sound as the exhaust exits the head. The steel tubing of a header transmits much of it. If the joints are not sealed, that's another source of exhaust noise.

Spot on Michael. I restored a 1965 Porsche 356, then drove it almost daily for the next 20 yrs without issues. The Porsche was a lot of fun, but my mini ( when not being temperamental ) was a blast to drive! 

for the buyer and seller.. you can NOT fix  STUPIC.. bc

Darren: Maybe the photos you are trying to post are to large or the wrong file format. The ones you sent me from Braden were both too large and an incompatible format. Email me 3 or 4 to prove you are in possession of the Mini (to appease the sceptics) and I will post them in this thread on your behalf. NOTE: I will be away until later this afternoon, Eastern Standard Time.

Dan

Custard.

Yup, calling custard on this charade.

Forget the "I can't post pictures here" bollocks, take some snaps to prove you have this vehicle, upload them anywhere you choose on the great big digital thing called the internet, and post the link to them.

Derwood, it would be wise of you to read the posts on this thread carefully. Virtually every poster is telling you that owning a classic Mini is unlike owning any other car you may have been familiar with. If you stick with it and have the stomach for it, you're in for the experience of a lifetime, automotively speaking. Alas, this may be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on your outlook and attitude.

I lurked around this forum for years before I bought my Mini. I was busy with my career and a year or two away from retirement, so I chose to have an established, reputable Mini shop do a ground up resto for what turned out to be a jaw-dropping sum, thinking I could avoid most of the headaches and heartaches I have read about here. Since virtually everything on my car was new and fully sorted, I reasoned that I was buying a turn-key vehicle that I could hop in and drive like any other car. This was not to be the case. I took delivery of my "new" Mini over 5 years ago and I am still sorting out small and medium sized issues. Issues aside, keeping on top of the maintenance is almost a full time job in itself—it reminds me of what helicopter pilots say, "two hours of maintenance for every one hours of flying." I might have thought all vintage European cars were as quirky as our Minis, except that I restored a 50 year old VW type II a number of years ago, and when the resto was completed, I jumped in and drove it for a dozen years without another thought.

If you can adapt a bit of Zen-like mindset toward your new purchase, you'll have years of enjoyment to look forward to. If you cannot, my suggestion is that you sell it ASAP and buy a Civic.

I drove this car through the mountains, to car meets, on cruises, and around town with 0 issues.  Now mysteriously he has it a week and boom it’s no good, engine and gearbox are gone? He has made 0 attempt to contact me with concerns after multiple emails to him this week! He has 0 facts, diagnosis or professional opinion to backup any claim... I stand behind what I sell but I am also not going to be taken advantage of. 

My guess is the KAD shifter is your culprit... If you want Darren send me the KAD shifter and I will gladly send you a factory replacement.

The exhaust is a factory manifold with cat less exhaust and factory Rover muffler....