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 Posted: May 15, 2018 08:43AM
 Edited:  May 15, 2018 08:52AM
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Put the wire back on if you can find it, and it only has one place to go. Add a temporary ground to the can and see if it starts working, they are mechanical, and will click if it's working, lights or not. If not you need to test for power and are back to needing to know your wiring layout based on actual year. mini female spade terminals get loose over time, and should be cleaned and carefully reshaped to hold tight, some contact cleaner and dielectric grease.

 Posted: May 15, 2018 08:31AM
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I may have found the issue, this flasher is just danglimg free in the engime bay and its missing a wire. Anyone know if this is what the turn signal flasher looks like?

 Posted: May 15, 2018 03:57AM
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US
In general, hazards and turn signals have the following relationship.
The hazard switch has power on it all the time.  When you turn the switch on it:  Breaks power to the turn signal circuit, connects all the turn signal bulbs together, and connects the turn signal bulbs to the hazard flasher.
The turn signals only have power on them when the key is in the run position.  Power for that circuit flows through the "off" hazard switch.  When you select right or left:  power flows from the fuse box, through the hazard switch, through the turn signal flasher, then trough the turn signal switch to the left of right side of the car as selected.

Your issue is the hazards work and the turns do not.  Therefore, you need to see where in the circuit power for the turn signal is being lost.  Since you don't have left OR right signals, do not start by assuming it is the switch, it's probably power to the switch.  That power could be broken/lost at the fuse box, hazard switch, at the turn signal flasher, or any of the wires/connectors along the way.  Don't start spending money on parts until you've done some troubleshooting.

You need to determine the year of your car to get the "right" wiring diagram but in general, almost any mid to late 1970s wiring diagram is going to show the same turn signal and hazard switch wiring layout.  (Compare the hazard and turn signal circuits in several of the wiring diagrams in your Haynes).

DEB, my car (1964) was built for the Swiss market but ended up in Germany in the early-1970s before being exported the U.S.  The German tag on my car is pop riveted to the inside of the right door jam and has stamped letters.  If I remember correctly it is stamped with the VIN and the weight distribution.

Doug L.
 Posted: May 15, 2018 02:55AM
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I just remembered that it doesn't make the clicking noise either when i put the turn signals on but it makes it when i put the hazards on. Is the thing that makes the noise wired into the flasher or does that narrow it down to the steering column switch?

 Posted: May 14, 2018 06:29PM
kd
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CA
Send me a personal email at rileydeb@bell.net. I will get you a picture of an actual German serial number panel from one of our member's cars.. Deb

Keith & Deb

Avatar:Turn 1 at the Glen

 Posted: May 14, 2018 05:32PM
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 I think i need to know what year it is to get the correct wiring diagram. Atleast thats what it sounds like. I found a haynes service manual in the back of the car for 1969 to 1996 so that narrows it down to 37 years.

 Posted: May 14, 2018 05:17PM
 Edited:  May 15, 2018 05:43AM
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 Posted: May 14, 2018 04:21PM
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Alright ill look for the date codes tomorrow.

 Posted: May 14, 2018 04:13PM
kd
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CA
the master cylinder is 1979+ the 4 fuse fuse box is 1977+ . Take a picture of the big nuts on the bulk head holding the sub frame to the body between the radiator and the master cylinder.
There should be two flasher units. One for the flashers and one for the 4 ways or hazards...

Keith & Deb

Avatar:Turn 1 at the Glen

 Posted: May 14, 2018 04:01PM
kd
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CA
I am not *sure* but that plate is not rear punched and the serial number is a 1976 era number... Chuck??? can you chime in.  Take the door panel off and look at the look assembly. The seller may have filed off the trunk numbers but probably did not go so far as to remove the door panels.. 

Keith & Deb

Avatar:Turn 1 at the Glen

 Posted: May 14, 2018 02:42PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullet18
Heres the vin tag.
I am no expert but a German market Mini (unless required when the cabrio conversion was done) would have the original UK vin plate.

If the car was imported here in the early 2000's that would suggest the vin was possibly changed to make the Mini older than it actually is to avoid the 25 year rule.

Most Keith convertibles i have seen have been 80's models so check the two places i suggested for some guidance to the correct year.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: May 14, 2018 02:20PM
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US
Well, a British Leyland Vin tag would match a 70's car for sure versus Rover. My expertise in dating Minis stops at around 1969  Some of the others will chime in and give you some things to look for to determine what it really is. Most Minis are "Mr. Potato Head" anyway - do take a look at the date on the wiper motor if you get a chance.

 Posted: May 14, 2018 02:17PM
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Heres the vin tag.

 Posted: May 14, 2018 02:13PM
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Oh boy. That *might* make sense since it was imported from germany in the early 2000s. Its carbureted so i dont think it could be newer than 86 or whenever they put fuel injection on minis as that would mess with the wiring harness.

 Posted: May 14, 2018 01:55PM
 Edited:  May 14, 2018 01:56PM
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US
You may have been told it's a 1970 Rover Mini. It may be titled as a 1970 Rover Mini. It, however, is *not* a 1970 Rover Mini.  You don't need to admit this (and probably shouldn't in public because it is illegal). Hopefully it was done to avoid the 25 year rule versus being stolen. Anyway, just call it a 1970, restored to 1986 specs or whatever.

You do however need to know what year it is so you can get the correct wiring diagram and Haynes manual to help you. As others have said, likely mid 80's.

 Posted: May 14, 2018 01:36PM
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 I called the guy who we bought it from and got some more information. It had the engine built in hockenheim germany and it was originally a hardtop but they cut the top off. the guy says the turn signals worked when he put it on the trailer but i dont know about that. Its a 1970 rover mini 1000 but the engine is not at all stock so i dont know if he swapped it.

 Posted: May 14, 2018 12:30PM
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Looks like you have one of Keith's Cabrios. They started life as a sedan and they cut the back half of the top off and part of the front. It still gets its rigidity from the B pillars and the roof sections still being tied to the windshield. Now, as to the lighting issue, my guess is that it's a bad turn signal switch on the column. Or bad wiring at the column. Good luck and let us know what you find.

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

hockey91dad@hotmail.com

 Posted: May 14, 2018 12:21PM
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Looks like a newer 1275 A + engine with a HIF 44 carb.
It also looks newer than a 1970 you need to establish the exact year to chase the wiring issues and for any other parts you will need down the road. It looks like it may be a mid 80's car.
There are 4 digit date codes on Mini's on the wiper motor and trunk latch they should read something like 18 84 which would be the 18th week of 1984 or if yours is correct the last two digits would be 70.

Let us know what you find out.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: May 14, 2018 11:55AM
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CA
It's an HIF type SU carb...... likely an HIF44 (1.75") as it's a 1275 engine.....although HIF38 was used on Sprites with 1275

Your car likely isn't a Cooper as there was no Cooper in 1970....although there was a Cooper S until 71

Can you post a SN and Engine #

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: May 14, 2018 11:46AM
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Ok, so the hazard lights work. The turn signal arrows on the dash dont work when i try to indicate either but they work when i rurn the hazards on. Does this narrow it down to a problem with the column or the flasher?

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