Getting legal in Texas Can't find VIN
Created by: Morninglightmountain
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Jun 5, 2018 05:45AM | velopackrat | |
Jun 2, 2018 11:31AM | Morninglightmountain | |
Jun 1, 2018 10:54PM | charrison | Edited: Jun 1, 2018 10:54PM |
Jun 1, 2018 07:28PM | Cheleker | |
Jun 1, 2018 03:49PM | Morninglightmountain | |
Jun 1, 2018 03:42PM | Morninglightmountain | |
Jun 1, 2018 11:16AM | malsal | |
Jun 1, 2018 10:50AM | Dr Mini | |
Jun 1, 2018 05:07AM | Morninglightmountain | |
Jun 1, 2018 04:47AM | malsal | Edited: Jun 1, 2018 11:07AM |
May 31, 2018 06:43PM | thewerewolf | |
May 31, 2018 05:41PM | minimans | |
May 31, 2018 03:13PM | 1963SV2 | |
May 31, 2018 01:05PM | Morninglightmountain |
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It might be worth a try to email the folks at British Motor Heritage Museum, who produce Heritage Certificates. Since you now know the body number, they can cross reference and possibly provide the Chassis number (VIN), Engine number and other information on the original build sheet.
Knowing the car was possibly Clipper blue, plus the date on the wiper box, plus any other date coded parts that might remain, plus your knowledge it's a 1960 Morris should all match what Heritage has on record. Then armed with the original VIN, go down to the DMV and have them run the numbers to make sure nothing bad turns up. Nothing will because you've owned the car for 30 years
Then it's a matter of a Bonded Title process and you're all good, plus accurate. A PIA process but worth it.
Knowing the car was possibly Clipper blue, plus the date on the wiper box, plus any other date coded parts that might remain, plus your knowledge it's a 1960 Morris should all match what Heritage has on record. Then armed with the original VIN, go down to the DMV and have them run the numbers to make sure nothing bad turns up. Nothing will because you've owned the car for 30 years
Then it's a matter of a Bonded Title process and you're all good, plus accurate. A PIA process but worth it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charrison
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morninglightmountain
ah ha! there is a number there!
Only Morris's had the number stamped there.
The colour looks like Clipper Blue.
Your full VIN will be "M A2S4 L xxxx" - the L denotes LHD if it was made as such.
M a2s4 XXXX
just leave out the L?
thanks!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morninglightmountain
ah ha! there is a number there!
Only Morris's had the number stamped there.
The colour looks like Clipper Blue.
Your full VIN will be "M A2S4 L xxxx" - the L denotes LHD if it was made as such.
Car engines make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By running your engine you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.
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I'll vote with Dr Mini. It will be easier to swap parts on the subframes than getting the later one to work in an older car...and it keeps at least that much original for a very early Mini.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Mini
If your car already has a front subframe you can just drop the 87 engine right in. That is, unless you're trying to use an automatic transmission in a manual car.
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I'll give it the old college try! I can certainly drill holes.
I know the previous owners name. now I have a # to go on. and I have a number off the Texas inspection sticker from who knows when.
They just started pulling the motor out of the mini. we'll see what happens.
Thanks much for all the help fellas!!!
I know the previous owners name. now I have a # to go on. and I have a number off the Texas inspection sticker from who knows when.
They just started pulling the motor out of the mini. we'll see what happens.
Thanks much for all the help fellas!!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morninglightmountain
ah ha! there is a number there!
How involved are the mods from '87 model to '60 subframe swap?
How involved are the mods from '87 model to '60 subframe swap?
As you are getting the whole lot it should not be hard to offer it up and see how it fits.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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If your car already has a front subframe you can just drop the 87 engine right in. That is, unless you're trying to use an automatic transmission in a manual car.
"Retired: No Job, No Money, Wife and I! Will travel anywhere for Minis"
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BTW the 1987 sub frame is a two bolt rubber mount one and will not fit your car without modification. Some early cars had their vin number stamped in the front floor board.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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MLM.. most states.. allow you to do title bond if title is missing and get and a State vin number if vin number is missing.... Here in NC.. you get MVR 31 ( state vin number called NCS) title bond called MVR 92 H.. and you are legal in ONE day.. if you were closer I can do for about $150 TOTAL.. later bc
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As it's a very early car you may be in luck. The chassis/VIN number was stamped into the bulkhead stiffner on the right side its just the numbers but you can work out the rest of the full chassis number from the published list. Is it an Austin or Morris? probably Morris if it's an original import car
Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch
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The original chassis number was on a plate screwed to the top of the radiator shroud. There would have been a plate welded to the inner guard just above this with what is known as the "front end number"... reads FExxxxxxx. Unfortunately this number was an internal build record and does not seem to have been recorded anywhere ...so if you have it it doesn't tell you much. There are private records that can be used to give a rough build date using the FE No.
There would also have been a small plate welded on the left hand side (as you would look at it) on the top of the bonnet slam panel. This "body number" is recorded in the factory ledgers and can be used to obtain a factory build certificate.
Some cars had the number part of the chassis number stamped into the bottom of the gutter at the rear of the engine bay.
Good luck, Ian
There would also have been a small plate welded on the left hand side (as you would look at it) on the top of the bonnet slam panel. This "body number" is recorded in the factory ledgers and can be used to obtain a factory build certificate.
Some cars had the number part of the chassis number stamped into the bottom of the gutter at the rear of the engine bay.
Good luck, Ian
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Hi fellas,
Getting motivated to get my 1960 mini on the road. I have a friend who's converting an '87 mini no all electric and has offered me the engine/subframe and all the other gas related stuff off of it. Now my problem is I don't have a title for my mini. I bought it 31 years ago to race so was never too concerned about the vin or title.
I've looked all over for the vin#. I don't see where there was ever rivet holes for the plate on the grill panel. I can get some numbers off the wiper motor.
I've looked around the door jams and around the trunk area. Any ideas or advice?
Gotta find some numbers for this thing or it'll be lost forever!
Getting motivated to get my 1960 mini on the road. I have a friend who's converting an '87 mini no all electric and has offered me the engine/subframe and all the other gas related stuff off of it. Now my problem is I don't have a title for my mini. I bought it 31 years ago to race so was never too concerned about the vin or title.
I've looked all over for the vin#. I don't see where there was ever rivet holes for the plate on the grill panel. I can get some numbers off the wiper motor.
I've looked around the door jams and around the trunk area. Any ideas or advice?
Gotta find some numbers for this thing or it'll be lost forever!