× 1-800-946-2642 Home My Account Social / Forum Articles Contact My Cart
Shop Now
Select Your Car Type Sale Items Clearance Items New Items
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

 Posted: Jun 5, 2018 12:03PM
 Edited:  Jun 5, 2018 12:08PM
Total posts: 1007
Last post: Jul 19, 2022
Member since:Jul 24, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I had a 1983 Golf diesel, non turbo that was dangerously slow, not any fun to drive. Outside of first, shifting was optional, But at least it had a cold start enrichment pull knob, that really made people back off hehee Whatever you go with, you will know if it's got enough power on the test drive. Some more power can be reasonably purchased, rust is too expensive.

 Posted: Jun 5, 2018 10:39AM
Total posts: 1276
Last post: Nov 26, 2018
Member since:Feb 17, 2005
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
CA
Werewolf I know,but other than correctness why would you bother? I had to drive my motor home behind a rebuilt 850 all the way to Mid Ohio,just to protect the car from being hit from behind. At least I had A/C and a stereo. Cheers

 Posted: Jun 5, 2018 10:22AM
Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by LilMiniCooper
Hi guys I am new to the Mini forum so please forgive me if i ask stupid questions or repeat what has already been discussed. I will admit i have not searched up any of my questions prior to posting. Today my 2010 mini convertible finally died on me after the nightmare of trying to keep that thing running. I figure this is a good time to get serious about getting my dream car, a classic mini. Expense is not an issue at all, nor reliabilty i simply just would like information on what to look for and where to look for a solid mini. I also have seen a lot of fiberglass kits and body shells, are these a good plan? Anyone have experience with fiberglass bodies, do they improve the car enough to justify it for street use? I will not need the mini to be on the highway a lot either, just a small stretch of highway (2 miles maybe?) That i may have to get on sometimes, so would a 998 still work or do i need to focus on a 1275? Finally, i have been able to find solid info on whether to get an Austin or a Rover (I know there are others but i can only find those two at the moment.) The new (old) mini will be driven often.
Email me i might have what you need info is in my profile.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jun 4, 2018 01:32PM
Total posts: 3919
Last post: Oct 29, 2019
Member since:Oct 4, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
LMC.. actually a 1098 cc is the way to go.. if possible lots more power than 998cc and none of the overheating problems of a 1275 cc engine.. later bc

 Posted: Jun 4, 2018 01:31PM
Total posts: 3919
Last post: Oct 29, 2019
Member since:Oct 4, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
bluebox.. you might be WRONG. ?? I just drove a totally rebuilt 850 and rebuild tranny in a UK moke and it was as good as any 998cc I had ever driven.. later bc

 Posted: Jun 4, 2018 12:20PM
Total posts: 1276
Last post: Nov 26, 2018
Member since:Feb 17, 2005
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
CA
850 motors were fun when we were kids,but the 998 will get the job done.Or with an 850 you can go really slow and just p'" everyone off.

 Posted: Jun 4, 2018 12:08PM
Total posts: 2
Last post: Jun 4, 2018
Member since:Jun 3, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Alright i updated my account. I am in North Texas just outside of Fort Worth. I am glad to hear 998s are a good way to go as thats basically all i can fomd for sale nearby, theres also an 850??? Never heard of this one, is it a good choice also? Thanks for the help and patience. Im sure rust spots are covered in the forums elsewhere, so I'll go take a look as i get more familiar with this site. 

 Posted: Jun 4, 2018 06:37AM
Total posts: 3919
Last post: Oct 29, 2019
Member since:Oct 4, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
welcome. you can teach an old Dog new tricks.. ok. good to hear you are getting a real mini.. ok. stick with the 998.. and then just get you stage one kit. headers.. Sight inspection is Must on any older british car.. just like Dr Mini said. due to rust issues.. make sure you check the vin numbers to make sure they match the title.. try to buy car in state. ( btw where are you).. will save lots of Grief with the phat ladies at your local DMV.. what was the that old Delbert McClinton song. make sure you have good tyres on it and good set of jumper cables.... later bc

 Posted: Jun 4, 2018 04:00AM
Total posts: 9528
Last post: Mar 27, 2024
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
CA
Welcome to the forum.
How people respond to your questions will depend on where you live, and how handy you are working on cars yourself.
Start by filling in some of your profile with where you live - country, state/province/region, and city. This is a world-wide forum so our suggestions may vary considerably depending on where you live.

A big advantage of knowing where you are is that there may be Minis available close to you, but more importantly there may be someone knowleegeable nearby willing to guide and assist you in assessing condition and value. Then once you acquire a Mini there would be someone to guide you on its maintenance and repair.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jun 4, 2018 03:41AM
Total posts: 7048
Last post: Jan 29, 2024
Member since:May 23, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Glad to see you're going from the dark side to owning a real Mini. My 34 yr old son drove one of my Minis thru high school that was a late model 998. He has a couple of Minis now, one of which is a very hot 1275 race Mini. He's always talking about the practical use of a 998. He says, "you can have just as much fun in a 998 as you can in a 1275, and not worry about it breaking regularly!". You won't be able to race Corvettes, but the 998 will go plenty fast enough. 998s are smoother and typically don't have cooling issues like 1275s do. Anyway, good luck in your search, and a word of advice...try to view any potential purchase in person and with a current Mini owner. Rust is a big issue and sometimes bodged over.

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Jun 3, 2018 08:28PM
Total posts: 2
Last post: Jun 4, 2018
Member since:Jun 3, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Hi guys I am new to the Mini forum so please forgive me if i ask stupid questions or repeat what has already been discussed. I will admit i have not searched up any of my questions prior to posting. Today my 2010 mini convertible finally died on me after the nightmare of trying to keep that thing running. I figure this is a good time to get serious about getting my dream car, a classic mini. Expense is not an issue at all, nor reliabilty i simply just would like information on what to look for and where to look for a solid mini. I also have seen a lot of fiberglass kits and body shells, are these a good plan? Anyone have experience with fiberglass bodies, do they improve the car enough to justify it for street use? I will not need the mini to be on the highway a lot either, just a small stretch of highway (2 miles maybe?) That i may have to get on sometimes, so would a 998 still work or do i need to focus on a 1275? Finally, i have been able to find solid info on whether to get an Austin or a Rover (I know there are others but i can only find those two at the moment.) The new (old) mini will be driven often.