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 Posted: Jul 1, 2018 07:01AM
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CA
I first noted that extra cooling was needed on a trip to MMW in Valejo, Calif. in 1997.  The bog standard 998 saw engine temps rise dramatically while oil pressure fell climbing the short but steep ascents on the I5 in southern Oregon.

After 'warming up' the 998 and adding an oil cooler & extra rad I never had an overheating & falling oil pressure scenario again.  If there was no hot weather both could easily be blocked off.

Extra rads got our 2 Minis across the Kimberley in Western Australia with temps +40 C/+105 F.  Wifey need wet towel over her head.

The dramatic difference was crossing the Mojave in the 1380 powered sedan without issue, while a running mate lost a head gasket, cracked block but not sleeves (#3 & #4) & head between chambers (#3 & #4) & between valve seats in #4.  When we got extra cooling capacity in the airflow, we made it 1,800 miles to Canada before engine rebuild with fresh block and used head.

 Posted: Jun 28, 2018 04:44PM
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CA
We all know oil & petrol prices in Canada are ridiculous  but this week @ CTC, Crappy Tire, 20/50 Castrol is on sale for $19.95 for 5 litre jug

and right above it a litre of Castrol  20/50 sells for $8.99

go figure

Big AL

[email protected]

Niagara Ontario Canada

 Posted: Jun 28, 2018 12:40PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elpez
Quote:
Originally Posted by onetim
I don't understand titanium as an oil additive.
I don't worry so much about it, you could read up and understand it if you want to.  after 95,000 miles and many trips to NC and back from the Keys, it's all I'll use.  Most Mini guys spend hours worrying about their oil and drive the cars 2,000 miles every 5 years
Not trying to Knock your choice of oil, I am at ease. Titanium dioxide I believe is the white in white paint, it’s sales are an indicator of a county’s economic health. Just honestly wanted to know the science for engine oil.

 Posted: Jun 28, 2018 10:58AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by onetim
I don't understand titanium as an oil additive.
Probably mostly marketing.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jun 28, 2018 10:34AM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by onetim
I don't understand titanium as an oil additive.
I don't care to understand it, but after 95,000 miles and multiple 3,000 hard driven miles trips , engine still runs great.  Nice to talk viscocity, hardness, sliperyness, or what ever you want to bring up, if your mini sits most of the time, them you can use anything you want, and it will not make any difference anyway.

 Posted: Jun 28, 2018 10:29AM
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I think that's cold start-up that causes high wear. Once warm, with oil flowing freely and moisture burned off, repeated start-stop incurs no particular increase in wear. I suppose if the oil is too heavy and never gets up to temperature, wear might be increased.

DLY
 Posted: Jun 28, 2018 10:20AM
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Everyone KNOWS that most wear begins on start-up. Right?

I have a friend who is  UPS delivery truck mechanic. Their drivers shut off their engines at EVERY stop. Then restart. All day long. Admittedly, the engine is warm and oil has already flowed, but doing this repeatedly all day long.......

I asked him if they wore out starters. NOPE. I asked him if they wore out bearings. NOPE. Engines go for 600,000 miles routinely.

 Posted: Jun 28, 2018 04:12AM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by onetim
I don't understand titanium as an oil additive.
I don't worry so much about it, you could read up and understand it if you want to.  after 95,000 miles and many trips to NC and back from the Keys, it's all I'll use.  Most Mini guys spend hours worrying about their oil and drive the cars 2,000 miles every 5 years

 Posted: Jun 27, 2018 10:19PM
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Uuumm no... viscosity is pretty much always dependent on temperature (I'm sure there are some liquids that resist this law of physics).   This is one reason most manuals advise you warm the engine before changing the oil....

So what you're seeing is entirely normal.   You'll also find with pretty much every mineral oil that the oil pressure (at your nominal 3500 revs) will fall after then engine is worked hard for a period (i.e. climbing a long hill  / running at sustained higher speed).  After a period of gentle running the pressure will climb again...

Synthetic oil will maintain pressure under duress much better than mineral oils...

An oil cooler will reduce the pressure drop off if you indulge in significant hot hard running.  (Whether this is of concern is a matter of significantly differing opinion..)

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Jun 27, 2018 09:04PM
 Edited:  Jun 27, 2018 09:34PM
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US
What puzzles me is why oil pressure drops off when the engine warms to operating temp.  Viscosity is viscosity, right?   I flew helicopters for 20 years in the Army and ANY drop in engine oil pressure would make your palms sweat.  I run a quality grade 20w50 that gives me 80 PSI at start but settles in at 65-70 at 3500 rpm.  Would an oil cooler help stabilize the pressure?

 Posted: Jun 27, 2018 04:17PM
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Titanium oxide is known to be a anti-wear additive. Not unlike the beloved zinc, molybdenum, etc.

How valuable it is as a motor oil additive (vs. the more common ones) is unknown to me. Doesn't seem like many manufactures use it though.

DLY
 Posted: Jun 27, 2018 10:01AM
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GB
Quote:
Originally Posted by onetim
I don't understand titanium as an oil additive.
Unless it's a joke post (hur hur) I'd have thought that the hardness of Ti would be the last thing you'd want floating around.

 Posted: Jun 27, 2018 09:21AM
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I don't understand titanium as an oil additive.

 Posted: Jun 27, 2018 08:29AM
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US
Kendall GT-1 with titanium, 20w50, and one quart of Lucas oil additive, change every 3,000 miles or after every CMU event!

 Posted: Jun 27, 2018 12:26AM
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GB
https://swiftune.com/parts-shop/competition-racing-oil/swiftune-20w-50-race-oil-3.html

https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/engine-oil/driven-racing-oil-hr-1-15w50-engine-oil-2

https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/product-line/joe-gibbs-driven-hr-1-conventional-high-performance-motor-oil - for those Stateside.

https://www.drivenracingoilsales.com/hr1-15w-50-petroleum-oil/  - direct.

I've been experimenting with the JGR products in Gertie and Betty, and am very impressed with what was found on stripdown after two years of racing. 
Oil gets hotter than the 100° shown in the graphs in Richards essay, even in a road car, so it would be interesting to see how the various grades perform above that temperature.

 Posted: Jun 26, 2018 06:57AM
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CA
Yes Spitz, the article supports my leaning towards 10-40 Diesel engine oil....

 Posted: Jun 25, 2018 08:57AM
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CA
And Richard's original post
https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/122852/1/1/The_selection_of_Oil_for_your_Mini

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Jun 25, 2018 08:56AM
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CA
It's a good read Rick

www.widman.biz/mini_pics/classic-mini-oil.pdf

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Jun 24, 2018 05:34PM
kd
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CA
In our street Minis we use 15W50 synthetic Mobil 1.to which  we add a few ounces of Red Line break in additive.
For the Race Mini we use Royal Purple and also add the Red line break in additive.
Other members in our club use Harley Davidson oil .
We buy the Mobil 1 in Vermont as it is hard to find here and 3 x the price...
Debbie

Keith & Deb

Avatar:Turn 1 at the Glen

 Posted: Jun 24, 2018 08:16AM
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Umm schnitzel! I am using conventional high zinc diesel 20-50 oil Based on detailed info from Richard who posts here. He also believes 10 -40 would be even better on a engine with still good oil control.

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