Engine Oils - Old topic, any new ideas?
Created by: Hunter2
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I first noted that extra cooling was needed on a trip to MMW in Valejo, Calif. in 1997. The bog standard 998 saw engine temps rise dramatically while oil pressure fell climbing the short but steep ascents on the I5 in southern Oregon.
After 'warming up' the 998 and adding an oil cooler & extra rad I never had an overheating & falling oil pressure scenario again. If there was no hot weather both could easily be blocked off.
Extra rads got our 2 Minis across the Kimberley in Western Australia with temps +40 C/+105 F. Wifey need wet towel over her head.
The dramatic difference was crossing the Mojave in the 1380 powered sedan without issue, while a running mate lost a head gasket, cracked block but not sleeves (#3 & #4) & head between chambers (#3 & #4) & between valve seats in #4. When we got extra cooling capacity in the airflow, we made it 1,800 miles to Canada before engine rebuild with fresh block and used head.
After 'warming up' the 998 and adding an oil cooler & extra rad I never had an overheating & falling oil pressure scenario again. If there was no hot weather both could easily be blocked off.
Extra rads got our 2 Minis across the Kimberley in Western Australia with temps +40 C/+105 F. Wifey need wet towel over her head.
The dramatic difference was crossing the Mojave in the 1380 powered sedan without issue, while a running mate lost a head gasket, cracked block but not sleeves (#3 & #4) & head between chambers (#3 & #4) & between valve seats in #4. When we got extra cooling capacity in the airflow, we made it 1,800 miles to Canada before engine rebuild with fresh block and used head.
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We all know oil & petrol prices in Canada are ridiculous but this week @ CTC, Crappy Tire, 20/50 Castrol is on sale for $19.95 for 5 litre jug
and right above it a litre of Castrol 20/50 sells for $8.99
go figure
Big AL
and right above it a litre of Castrol 20/50 sells for $8.99
go figure
Big AL
Niagara Ontario Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elpez
Quote:
Originally Posted by onetim
I don't understand titanium as an oil additive.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onetim
I don't understand titanium as an oil additive.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onetim
I don't understand titanium as an oil additive.
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I think that's cold start-up that causes high wear. Once warm, with oil flowing freely and moisture burned off, repeated start-stop incurs no particular increase in wear. I suppose if the oil is too heavy and never gets up to temperature, wear might be increased.
DLY
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Everyone KNOWS that most wear begins on start-up. Right?
I have a friend who is UPS delivery truck mechanic. Their drivers shut off their engines at EVERY stop. Then restart. All day long. Admittedly, the engine is warm and oil has already flowed, but doing this repeatedly all day long.......
I asked him if they wore out starters. NOPE. I asked him if they wore out bearings. NOPE. Engines go for 600,000 miles routinely.
I have a friend who is UPS delivery truck mechanic. Their drivers shut off their engines at EVERY stop. Then restart. All day long. Admittedly, the engine is warm and oil has already flowed, but doing this repeatedly all day long.......
I asked him if they wore out starters. NOPE. I asked him if they wore out bearings. NOPE. Engines go for 600,000 miles routinely.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onetim
I don't understand titanium as an oil additive.
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Uuumm no... viscosity is pretty much always dependent on temperature (I'm sure there are some liquids that resist this law of physics). This is one reason most manuals advise you warm the engine before changing the oil....
So what you're seeing is entirely normal. You'll also find with pretty much every mineral oil that the oil pressure (at your nominal 3500 revs) will fall after then engine is worked hard for a period (i.e. climbing a long hill / running at sustained higher speed). After a period of gentle running the pressure will climb again...
Synthetic oil will maintain pressure under duress much better than mineral oils...
An oil cooler will reduce the pressure drop off if you indulge in significant hot hard running. (Whether this is of concern is a matter of significantly differing opinion..)
Cheers, Ian
So what you're seeing is entirely normal. You'll also find with pretty much every mineral oil that the oil pressure (at your nominal 3500 revs) will fall after then engine is worked hard for a period (i.e. climbing a long hill / running at sustained higher speed). After a period of gentle running the pressure will climb again...
Synthetic oil will maintain pressure under duress much better than mineral oils...
An oil cooler will reduce the pressure drop off if you indulge in significant hot hard running. (Whether this is of concern is a matter of significantly differing opinion..)
Cheers, Ian
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What puzzles me is why oil pressure drops off when the engine warms to operating temp. Viscosity is viscosity, right? I flew helicopters for 20 years in the Army and ANY drop in engine oil pressure would make your palms sweat. I run a quality grade 20w50 that gives me 80 PSI at start but settles in at 65-70 at 3500 rpm. Would an oil cooler help stabilize the pressure?
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Titanium oxide is known to be a anti-wear additive. Not unlike the beloved zinc, molybdenum, etc.
How valuable it is as a motor oil additive (vs. the more common ones) is unknown to me. Doesn't seem like many manufactures use it though.
How valuable it is as a motor oil additive (vs. the more common ones) is unknown to me. Doesn't seem like many manufactures use it though.
DLY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onetim
I don't understand titanium as an oil additive.
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I don't understand titanium as an oil additive.
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Kendall GT-1 with titanium, 20w50, and one quart of Lucas oil additive, change every 3,000 miles or after every CMU event!
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https://swiftune.com/parts-shop/competition-racing-oil/swiftune-20w-50-race-oil-3.html
https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/engine-oil/driven-racing-oil-hr-1-15w50-engine-oil-2
https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/product-line/joe-gibbs-driven-hr-1-conventional-high-performance-motor-oil - for those Stateside.
https://www.drivenracingoilsales.com/hr1-15w-50-petroleum-oil/ - direct.
I've been experimenting with the JGR products in Gertie and Betty, and am very impressed with what was found on stripdown after two years of racing.
Oil gets hotter than the 100° shown in the graphs in Richards essay, even in a road car, so it would be interesting to see how the various grades perform above that temperature.
https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/engine-oil/driven-racing-oil-hr-1-15w50-engine-oil-2
https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/product-line/joe-gibbs-driven-hr-1-conventional-high-performance-motor-oil - for those Stateside.
https://www.drivenracingoilsales.com/hr1-15w-50-petroleum-oil/ - direct.
I've been experimenting with the JGR products in Gertie and Betty, and am very impressed with what was found on stripdown after two years of racing.
Oil gets hotter than the 100° shown in the graphs in Richards essay, even in a road car, so it would be interesting to see how the various grades perform above that temperature.
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Yes Spitz, the article supports my leaning towards 10-40 Diesel engine oil....
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And Richard's original post
https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/122852/1/1/The_selection_of_Oil_for_your_Mini
https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/122852/1/1/The_selection_of_Oil_for_your_Mini
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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It's a good read Rick
www.widman.biz/mini_pics/classic-mini-oil.pdf
www.widman.biz/mini_pics/classic-mini-oil.pdf
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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In our street Minis we use 15W50 synthetic Mobil 1.to which we add a few ounces of Red Line break in additive.
For the Race Mini we use Royal Purple and also add the Red line break in additive.
Other members in our club use Harley Davidson oil .
We buy the Mobil 1 in Vermont as it is hard to find here and 3 x the price...
Debbie
For the Race Mini we use Royal Purple and also add the Red line break in additive.
Other members in our club use Harley Davidson oil .
We buy the Mobil 1 in Vermont as it is hard to find here and 3 x the price...
Debbie
Keith & Deb
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Umm schnitzel! I am using conventional high zinc diesel 20-50 oil Based on detailed info from Richard who posts here. He also believes 10 -40 would be even better on a engine with still good oil control.
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