Oil weights
Created by: 1967minicooper
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Sep 15, 2018 06:44AM | Dan Moffet | |
Sep 14, 2018 03:58PM | mediumcool | |
Sep 14, 2018 01:09PM | Dan Moffet | Edited: Sep 14, 2018 01:15PM |
Sep 14, 2018 08:42AM | mediumcool | Edited: Sep 14, 2018 09:20AM |
Sep 14, 2018 07:54AM | scottwkurth | |
Sep 13, 2018 08:05PM | mediumcool | |
Sep 13, 2018 06:31PM | bluedragon | Edited: Sep 13, 2018 06:33PM |
Sep 13, 2018 12:05PM | mediumcool | |
Sep 13, 2018 11:58AM | onetim | |
Sep 13, 2018 11:25AM | mediumcool | |
Sep 13, 2018 09:30AM | onetim | |
Sep 13, 2018 07:17AM | mediumcool | |
Sep 12, 2018 11:05PM | Alex | |
Sep 12, 2018 05:00PM | onetim | |
Sep 12, 2018 03:56PM | mediumcool | |
Sep 12, 2018 02:54PM | 1967minicooper | |
Sep 12, 2018 12:15PM | mediumcool | |
Sep 12, 2018 10:48AM | Spitz | |
Sep 12, 2018 08:18AM | Alex | |
Sep 12, 2018 06:36AM | thewerewolf |
Found 25 Messages
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Mediumcool: The concept about motor oil for diesel (or motorcycle) engines is that the oil is a higher spec and quality to withstand the environment in that engine. It exceeds the original spec for a Mini engine and therefore provides better protection. But it is still motor oil.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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I grew up in the '60s and '70s with my Dad always putting a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil in his Buick's crankcase at every oil change so it's kind of ingrained in my head. He put it in the gasoline and I was waiting to see if he was going to start using it to polish the chrome bumpers. I can agree to kibosh the ZDDP on my next oil change.
But I can't get my head around switching to motorcycle oil as seems to be suggested in the article or using diesel oil in any gasoline engine.
It seems to me to be a bit strange. Am I reading the article correctly? It seems like down through all the years of my experience working on cars, which is my favorite thing to do, this would have come up at some point or another.
But I can't get my head around switching to motorcycle oil as seems to be suggested in the article or using diesel oil in any gasoline engine.
It seems to me to be a bit strange. Am I reading the article correctly? It seems like down through all the years of my experience working on cars, which is my favorite thing to do, this would have come up at some point or another.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluedragon
Richard Widman (richard1) wrote an excellent article on oil and the Mini. It's my authority on what oil to choose.
https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/122852/1/1/The_selection_of_Oil_for_your_Mini
https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/122852/1/1/The_selection_of_Oil_for_your_Mini
https://www.widman.biz/mini_pics/classic-mini-oil.pdf
It is a 16 page document. The Reader's Digest version starts on page 12 under the title "Summary".
Download the whole article for reference and print off the Summary for leisure reading.
One of his Summary points:
"Never put additives in the oil you buy. Very few people can calculate and improve the formula. For those that want more detail on why, check this link on the development of the standards.This recommendation also includes Moly based additives, as they will keep the synchronizers from working as designed."
Thanks again, Richard.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Yes, then that would be our can of worms!
I meant 16oz
I meant 16oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mediumcool
... with 16 pints of ZDDP...
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Scott | 1963 Austin Cooper | 2003 MINI Cooper S | 2018 MINI Cooper 4-door
Scott | 1963 Austin Cooper | 2003 MINI Cooper S | 2018 MINI Cooper 4-door
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To be honest, I an a complete novice. I'm in Newport Beach, California so I just use Castrol 10w/40w with 16 pints of ZDDP. I hope that is about right for my climate. I only drive to the beach on weekends for coffee. The rest of the time I spend polishing the finish in the garage.
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Richard Widman (richard1) wrote an excellent article on oil and the Mini. It's my authority on what oil to choose.
https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/122852/1/1/The_selection_of_Oil_for_your_Mini
If you don't drive your Mini much, and then only in good weather (short local runs between 50-80°F), the higher cost of synthetic makes little sense.
If you drive it in cold or hot temperatures, or for long journeys across varied climates and terrain, I would unquestionably use synthetic. First, try starting an engine with 20-50W conventional oil in temperatures around or below 30°F.
Second, on summer trips, the much higher flash point and shear resistance of synthetic oil gives much better protection in tough conditions. Especially in vehicles with cooling systems 20-50 years old. If something goes awry with the cooling, superior oil gives a better chance for the engine to survive without major damage.
Even if there is no cooling malfunction, the cooling system of Minis can be taxed to its limit on many open road conditions in the summer (for example, climbing out from Texas to Colorado in July.) You can see the oil temperature soar, and I'd much rather have a synthetic with more hi-temp headroom before it breaks down.
https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/122852/1/1/The_selection_of_Oil_for_your_Mini
If you don't drive your Mini much, and then only in good weather (short local runs between 50-80°F), the higher cost of synthetic makes little sense.
If you drive it in cold or hot temperatures, or for long journeys across varied climates and terrain, I would unquestionably use synthetic. First, try starting an engine with 20-50W conventional oil in temperatures around or below 30°F.
Second, on summer trips, the much higher flash point and shear resistance of synthetic oil gives much better protection in tough conditions. Especially in vehicles with cooling systems 20-50 years old. If something goes awry with the cooling, superior oil gives a better chance for the engine to survive without major damage.
Even if there is no cooling malfunction, the cooling system of Minis can be taxed to its limit on many open road conditions in the summer (for example, climbing out from Texas to Colorado in July.) You can see the oil temperature soar, and I'd much rather have a synthetic with more hi-temp headroom before it breaks down.
DLY
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Thank you, your advice and discussion, it helps and I appreciate it being a part of it.
I'm learning as I go.
I'm learning as I go.
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Sorry, I did not mean to sound mean, ZDDP is important for flat tappet cams, all good questions. There are some very good past posts on this here, just go to the the search box on the upper right, enter "oil" and change default to forum. There are a lot of "just do this" opinions on oil, but they are all different.
And by the way if you are new here, Welcome
And by the way if you are new here, Welcome
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Thanks for the advice, I will take that into consideration on the next oil change.
Not to take away from your good advice I'm sure. I only advised it because I believe it
does some good based on a trusted expert in the field I know who recommends ZDDP. As a novice, I think it's wise
to trust those who have a proven track record repairing, building and racing Minis for over 40 years.
Or it could be "monkey pee" and I will kick myself later when I know more than I do now.
Not to take away from your good advice I'm sure. I only advised it because I believe it
does some good based on a trusted expert in the field I know who recommends ZDDP. As a novice, I think it's wise
to trust those who have a proven track record repairing, building and racing Minis for over 40 years.
Or it could be "monkey pee" and I will kick myself later when I know more than I do now.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mediumcool
Yes, too much ZDDP is not a good thing, I only use a pint of ZDDP with 5 quarts of Castrol 10w/40. I'm a "newby" and it was advice from an expert so I thought it a good idea I could pass on.
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Yes, too much ZDDP is not a good thing, I only use a pint of ZDDP with 5 quarts of Castrol 10w/40. I'm a "newby" and it was advice from an expert so I thought it a good idea I could pass on.
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Again, ZDDP or any other zinc additive may not be neccessary - there is such a thing as too much...
If you do your homework and get a 'proper' oil with all the additives need already in it, it'll almost certainly work better than a base oil plus additive - we're not chemists, we're spannerists.
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I’ll chime in, Shell Rotella T4 conventional 15W-40 CI-4 sold at Meyers $19.00 a gallon.
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ZDDP is what I use.
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What would be the best zinc additive,i could only find STP.Sure did open a can of worms
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In my opinion, stick with conventional oil and be sure to add the zinc additive if the engine in the '67 is original.
I could be wrong, but I don't see the benefit of synthetic oils for older Minis. All oil now is better than it was back then, mainly since has detergent that keeps parts clean. Just be sure to change the oil filter as well obviously.
I could be wrong, but I don't see the benefit of synthetic oils for older Minis. All oil now is better than it was back then, mainly since has detergent that keeps parts clean. Just be sure to change the oil filter as well obviously.
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Now, to open the can of worms.....synthetic or dinosaur?....
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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Very true Bill... but irrelevant.
The earliest manual I've been able to put my hand on easily is from 1961 and quotes 20w50 oil unless the temperature is below -18°C when 10w30 should be substituted.
The earliest manual I've been able to put my hand on easily is from 1961 and quotes 20w50 oil unless the temperature is below -18°C when 10w30 should be substituted.
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alex.. do you history.. back in the day.. the SAE.. society of automotive engineers ONLY did MONO grades.. like straight 30 W or 40 W.. later bc
Found 25 Messages