I wouldn't be using 10/30 in a MINI engine regardless of how warm/cold it is.....especially an auto

I used Rotella 15/40 in my MG a couple of years ago....as advised by an MG guy....basically to "clean it out", as it has many detergents.

Went right back to 20/50 afterwards though.

Do a search on here for "oil".  There is an Oil guru, "Richard", who has done some great write ups on oils etc..

I agree with Dan's method, but would also change the oil and filter as a last step. due to limited use, this is the only time I change the oil in the mini. The old oil can be moisture loaded and somewhat acidic, not good for storage. Always change the oil when hot, and run it for a few minutes after. In the spring, pull the plugs and crank till you have oil pressure.

I'd agree with not starting it periodically. Since winter comes here and stays, complete with salty roads, occasional 10-mile drives are out of the question. The preferred route is to prepare it for storage by checking fluids, especially the antifreeze, putting stabilizer in the gas, running it until you are satisfied the stabilizer has reached the carb, then shut it off. Some use a Seafoam-type treatment to inhibit condensation and rust in the cylinders, but I go old-school and remove the spark plugs and squirt a generous amount of motor oil onto the pistons. Then I crank the engine with the plugs out to coat the cylinders above the piston rings ( and the rings too ) to prevent rust. The engine, still being warm won't have any condensation at this point. I put the plugs back in and reconnect the plug wires, then roll the car into its storage location and put a cover on, leaving the windows open a crack for ventilation. At some pint during the winter, before the battery gets low, I connect a battery maintainer/ trickle charger. 
Once the care is tucked in, I call the insurance company to take off the liability and collision portion of the insurance. It remains covered for loss.  That saves more than enough to cover the cost of running a trickle charger all winter. 

Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think it's a good idea to just start your car in the garage in the winter and let it run for a while.  You'd be better off to the engine to find a dry day and get out and put at least 10 miles on it.  That will burn the moisture out of it.

dr mini..I saw somewhere.. that to use straight 40 W in the classic mini autos.. www.miniworld.co.uk maybe?? later bc   ps.. I have set of defender 110 rims for ya to pick up at Georgia Crackers house.in Atlanta. Ga . to bring to me after christmas..

I think im going to step down to 10w40.

Now, should i use a zinc additive?

What about the diesel oils? 15w40?

I thought 10/40 was the preferred oil for automatics anyway.

if you insist on changing your oil in near freezing weather, warm the engine to operating temp first, and keep your new oil inside your heated home until you want to pour it.  Both willl help the oil flow in and out of the car better.  Don't add stuff to your oil.  Yes thinner oil in winter, than summer. 

hey guys, i was reading some of the posts about types of oils and additives and had a few questions regarding my 92 1275 automatic

i did my first oil change the other day and it was pretty cold outside(30s).  i started slowly filling the valve cover and then it started to overflow. yes i have changed oil before but ive only ever used 5 or 10/30.  obviously the oil was too thick and wasnt draining into the engine fast enough.  

that being said, and now for my question, should i step down to a 10/40 and put in a zinc additive? and then go back to the 20/50 in the hotter summer months?
im kind of worried about the 20/50 being too thick and not circulating fast enough on first startup. i wont be driving it in weather this cold, but i will start it often and let it run for a bit during the winter months

thoughts??

mike