You may not have had a leak of fluid to the outside, however it is very likely that the seals or bore in the master cylinder were bad.  When that happens the fluid "leaks" around its seals.  No fluid is on the ground but none gets to the slave to move its piston either.

As has been mentioned, before saying this is all fixed, this would be a good time to check all the clevis pins and pivot points for wear.  You'll be surprised what a change in pedal position you can achieve with new unworn parts.

Glad you got your clutch back. You are almost done. Now Pull the pivot pin, Check to see if it is worn. A groove in the pin is not good. Check the arm hole to see if it still is round. clean the slot, and grease the hole, pivot pin and arm slot. The.n you're finished

I replaced the slave and the rubber hose both were in bad shape, it did not help. Then I replaced the master and the clutch works really good now.

None of them actually leaked but replacing them seemed to have fixed it.
Thanks for all the help.

Also to add to Doug's reply by now the two big nuts on the end of the shaft may be hitting the cover. You need to back these off and when you have the parts back together adjust them with the clutch fully depressed they need to bottom out so you do not overthrow the clutch action. If you dont have a Haynes manual get one most small jobs are outlined in there.

It sounds like you are on the right track.  Follow the advice given above by 6464 and Malsal to take the components apart and look for wear.  As mentioned the ball on the lower end of the throw out arm and all the clevis(s) and pins are subject to wear.  When you add up the wear on each component you end up with the situation you found yourself in.

With your car you have several things to work through.  I offer the following suggestions but obviously it's your car and your decision how to proceed.

The PO installed an adjustable slave pushrod.  Consider the slave suspect.  Buy a new slave cylinder, new stock pushrod, new clevis pins (all of them from the clutch MC to the two on the throw out arm), a new flex hose, and perhaps a new throw out arm (check yours as suggested by Malsal).  Install those new parts before proceeding.  You may also wish to order a new throw out arm return spring and the little tab that secures the spring to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder.  Your present setup with the spring going to the firewall is not correct.

With the new parts installed, try bleeding the system again.  If you cannot get fluid out during bleeding, you probably are going to have to rebuild or replace the master cylinder.

There are many bleed methods that will work.  Everyone has their own preferred method.  I suggest you follow one of the two flush methods illustrated in the YouTube video linked below.  

If the pedal still engages super low after you have done all this, adjust the 1/4" stop bolt clearance to the throw out arm.  The factory spec was for 0.020" clearance between the arm and head of the bolt.  However, you can reduce that gap to perhaps as little as 0.005".  This will raise the height of the clutch pedal above the floor at the point the clutch starts to engage. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc

Thanks for all of the replies. 
I have had the car for only  one week, it had been unused for about a year before I starting driving it. It worked perfectly for the first couple of days of some what brisk driving. It shifter smoothy in all gears and never popped out of gear, upshifting and down shifting was perfect. Then I noticed the clutch would engage about 1/8th inch above the floor so I thought I would adjust it. I mistakenly thought the adjustment was the threaded rod coming out of the slave, wrong! It got worse after that to the point that it was impossible to get into first and really difficult to get into second but would shift into 3rd and 4 OK.
Today I did have a helper push the clutch so could bleed it. The slave cylinder barley moved, it pumped up a bit but when opening the bleeder almost nothing came out, just a bit of fluid possibly some air but hard to say. After doing this several times its no better. If you pump it 10 or so times it starts to move farther but still not great. 

The slave looks a bit crusty and the hose is really old may have collapsed internally also the master looks very old as well. 

I think I'll start with the slave and new hose and see if I can get more movement. 
Any other ideas are appreciated.

That clutch arm is way out of wack from normal.
Before getting into the clutch unless a part in the clutch has collapsed (unlikely) i would suggest removing the clutch arm and clevis pin.
Usually when a po has installed an adjustable slave rod like yours something else is wearing out. When you have the arm removed look at the ball end it should be round when worn they are flat on one side, also examine the pin for wear and then the pin that attaches the master cylinder to the pedal as all these are dry items and do wear out.
It only takes a minimum amount of wear for the clutch to reach the point of not engaging.

I'd suspect worn synchros because it sounds exactly like the issue I have with my car. From what I've read the 2nd gear synchro is notorious for this. As it gets worse, it will sometimes jump out of 2nd gear—like when I am going down a hill slowly with a bit of engine braking. Do a bit of searching and you'll find a lot of people complaining of exactly the same symptoms.

I'm not sure what he means by "chirp" but my first Mini, a 1967 Countryman with the stock 850 magic wand lump had a clutch that was "grabby". Off a stop, it required just enough revs to not stall out (not unusual) and the clutch would grip quickly resulting in a chirp from the front tires. Of course my friend christened the car "The Chirp". The name stuck. The clutch worked fine otherwise. My second Mini, a 1969 saloon with the 998 did have a slipping clutch. It eventually required downshifts to go up inclines. That one got changed.

I am not convinced yet that your car has a clutch problem.

What have you adjusted "all the way out".  The adjustable slave pushrod is not factory and doesn't really do much on a hydraulic clutch except move/change the portion of the bore the piston works in.  The stock adjustment would be to remove the spring, pull the arm all the way to the left, then adjust the 1/4-28 stop bolt until there is about 0.020" of clearance between the head of the bolt and the arm.  The big nut on the throw-out shaft is the other adjustment.  My car still has the nut but some say it is not necessary at all.

What do you mean by "it chirps"?  Do you mean that there is grinding or something else?  If this is an early 3-synchro transmission, you must come to a complete stop before engaging first.  Grinding going into 2nd would most likely be a synchro problem.  Most of the time upshifting with worn synchros is not a problem if the engine and road speed are "just right".  Downshifting is a bit more complex with worn synchros.  

first thing , bleed your clutch system.  Get all the dirt out. Then go from there. You want to make sure your clutch system is operating properly first before you start replacing parts.

I have been driving my new 1964 Mini for a week, its a blast but I think it needs a new clutch. I have adjusted it all the way out and it still chirps a bit going into first and second but it does not slip at all. 
I have attached some pictures, if am missing something let me know but I think its time for a new clutch. 
Its a 1964 van but with a 1275 engine.
Thanks,