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 Posted: Jun 20, 2019 07:55AM
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So then im guessing its a bad thermostat then.  I will send be k to company amd get new one.  I just got car and it had this issue.  So i replaced the thermo housing with new one.  When i took the original one out it had a production date of 2018 on it.  So i figured it had been replaced. Didnt know of there was another issue that was causing the engine not up to temp code with both the one I bought.  And the one that was on car 

 Posted: Jun 20, 2019 07:34AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Creside
It is possible that theres no signal being sent to tell thermo to close? What is the average for air intake temp for a turbo cooper? I can monitor that with my obds 
Even if there were no signal from the ECU telling the thermostat to close, the hot coolant should heat up the thermostat enough to close it....

 Posted: Jun 20, 2019 05:46AM
 Edited:  Jun 20, 2019 05:48AM
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Yeah I'm pretty good with my way around cars.  But this mini had me baffled.  At lunch Im going g to us a inferred heat gun to check temp on both rad hoses. And compare it to torch reading for temp sensor.  

 Posted: Jun 20, 2019 05:42AM
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Well that's interesting. 

 Posted: Jun 20, 2019 05:32AM
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It is possible that theres no signal being sent to tell thermo to close? What is the average for air intake temp for a turbo cooper? I can monitor that with my obds 

 Posted: Jun 20, 2019 05:23AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Creside
I use a bluetooth obd2 scanner with the torck app on my phone.  I did check something after work.  Just for curiosity sakes i unplugged the connector in the thermo housing....not the removable temp sensor on top by the bleeder ...but the one right at the thermostat itself. And nothing happened. No code...no engine change.  What exactly is that sensor for? I would assume its the signal from the ecu to tell it to open or close?   As far as heat.  I get a little heat...but not like i should......as far as temp sensors...i can watch the temp go up at idle with app.....and the high speed fan comes on at 235.  When fan kicks off.  Temp ready 219
The second connection on the thermostat housing is most likely for the heating resistor which is used by the ECU to manually close the thermostat which forces the flow thru the radiator. This heater simulates the hot coolant temperature to close the thermostat.

The ECU monitor the following variables for controlling the thermostat:
• Engine speed
• Load
• Driving speed
• Intake air temperature
• Coolant temperature

 Posted: Jun 19, 2019 01:14PM
 Edited:  Jun 19, 2019 01:17PM
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I use a bluetooth obd2 scanner with the torck app on my phone.  I did check something after work.  Just for curiosity sakes i unplugged the connector in the thermo housing....not the removable temp sensor on top by the bleeder ...but the one right at the thermostat itself. And nothing happened. No code...no engine change.  What exactly is that sensor for? I would assume its the signal from the ecu to tell it to open or close?   As far as heat.  I get a little heat...but not like i should......as far as temp sensors...i can watch the temp go up at idle with app.....and the high speed fan comes on at 235.  When fan kicks off.  Temp ready 219

 Posted: Jun 19, 2019 01:05PM
 Edited:  Jun 19, 2019 01:30PM
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About the only thing that can make a running engine cold is a stuck thermostat or your getting a erroneous temperature reading. Do you have access to a non contact temp reader? Do you get good heat in the car when the reading is cold? 140 F would not give much heat. Also there are usually more than one temp sender, usually one for the gauge, another for the fans. Poor ground can cause all kind of trouble as well, find and clean all u can.

 Posted: Jun 19, 2019 11:03AM
 Edited:  Jun 19, 2019 11:05AM
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Yeah. I replaced the entire thermostat housing and sensor.  And it has been blead of all air. The housing came as one unit with the thermo

 Posted: Jun 19, 2019 10:44AM
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I see you changed the thermostat housing and temp sender,
did you the replace thermostat?

 Posted: Jun 19, 2019 07:15AM
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there was a broken wire for the pressure sensor which i fixed and then had system charged here at the dealership that i work at. Still no luck

 Posted: Jun 19, 2019 04:40AM
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The air conditioning system will have a low pressure cut off switch. The purpose is to interrupt compressor power when the charge is low so you don't ruin it. Check your AC 134a charge first. 

 Posted: Jun 19, 2019 04:13AM
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I have a 2010 turbo that im pulling my hear out over.  First.keep getting p0128 thermo not up to temp code.  I replaced the thermo housing and temp sensor. Filled with zerex g-05 and  bleadsystem. Temp get up at idle but thays it. Once start driving temp drops to max of 136f.  Outside temp this morning was 70 degrees f.  Car just will not maintain correct temp. As far as cooling fan. High speed kicks on at abt 230 and cools motor at idle. Low speed fan never comes on.....also dont come on when ac is switched on.  I did test the fan by running a hot wire to the low speed side and it works. As well as the high speed fan working.  I checked relay and its functioning as it should.  Lastly when i turn ac on the compressor will not engage. No power to compressor. I have done some research and found that the white wire coming out pf the passenger side fuse panel is for the compressor....i have no power coming out of it......but if I tap a wire into it and plug it into a power source. The compressor kicks on.....can someone please help point me in right direction.