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 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 07:18PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedduh01
Probably would have been good to have had a conversation with Mini mania about your swap so they could have assembled a better Combo for your install..  Going from an Early Engine to Late setup brings all these complications.

As Spank says=  To avoid axle Shaft changes. you can change the differerential  = but you must also swap Crown wheel gears to ensure the ratios match.  
It would only cost you some gaskets + seals  but you would end up with a whole 'early' axle setup in a late model trans. Not a problem

Then the can of worms.   =   What final drive ratio?    if you have that apart.  then its only a matter of one more end transmission cover to swap to a Lower final drive ratio... 3:10 is my preference for all Mini's ...  if you have a 3:44 = it will work as many cars run them every day. You might only know if you open it up.
I find it quite strange that you would spend all that money without enquiring/discussing what you were going to receive....

Also, I don't think I understand what's being said below... "... To avoid axle Shaft changes. you can change the differential .."  True, maybe ..but not really... If you're thinking of this, why not just swap your old output shafts into your new diff??? - you'll need to swap the diff side covers but that's no big deal while you've got everything apart..  (Although, I prefer the pot joints, even if it means buying new drive shafts .and joints).

However, before considering any of this ... and certainly before pulling anything apart, you should ring MM and have a conversation along the lines of .... " I had this ..you sold me this ...what do I do now...." 

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 05:32PM
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US
Probably would have been good to have had a conversation with Mini mania about your swap so they could have assembled a better Combo for your install..  Going from an Early Engine to Late setup brings all these complications.

As Spank says=  To avoid axle Shaft changes. you can change the differerential  = but you must also swap Crown wheel gears to ensure the ratios match.  
It would only cost you some gaskets + seals  but you would end up with a whole 'early' axle setup in a late model trans. Not a problem

Then the can of worms.   =   What final drive ratio?    if you have that apart.  then its only a matter of one more end transmission cover to swap to a Lower final drive ratio... 3:10 is my preference for all Mini's ...  if you have a 3:44 = it will work as many cars run them every day. You might only know if you open it up.

 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 03:05PM
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That last point is very interesting!!

 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 02:35PM
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if you have a mini chassis, you can get the axles from another mini commonly called pot joint axles.

If you have an MG1100, I'm not sure where you can get pot joint axles of the proper length. Rumor has it that MG Metro axles are the proper length, but I've not had the opportunity to test them out even though I've been pining away for a set for the past 5 years or so and nobody has been able to help me get some.

You can also change the differential in your new transmission to the differential in your old transmission.

 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 10:39AM
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onetim,

You are awesome, let me start talking to MM about the right drive shaft!!

Interesting about the clutch, threw me off when you asked but makes so much sense, I will research this and post what I find and likely be spending a few more dollars


Thanks again,
Dave

 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 09:46AM
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Good point

 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 09:43AM
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Can you clarify if you have a mini or an mg1100 chassis that you are putting your new engine into?

 Posted: Sep 18, 2019 09:10AM
 Edited:  Sep 18, 2019 09:36AM
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Not sure what a MG 1100 would use as a clutch, but when I received my 1989 1275 from MM it had a verto clutch type which is a newer type than the pre verto clutch which would have been used in 1968. They will both work, but the pre verto is usually considered better. You need to know which you are using to make sure the slave cylinder, actuating lever, and wok or clutch cover are correct, as they are different for the 2 clutch types. If all that came assembled on the trans/engine from MM you should have all the correct parts. I had a pre verto setup from my old engine I reconditioned for the MM 1275.

Yes them pot joints, Not them drive shafts. MM will know the part number's you need, shafts will be used, pot joints could be used as well, just check em for wear and use new grease/boots.

I am kind of surprised MM is not talking with you about all the parts needed for your conversion, should be easy money for them, and good for you. Make sure you speak with them on the phone, west coast hours, they were very helpful in my case, as well as here on the forum.

Ken? This is a paying customer.

 Posted: Sep 17, 2019 05:13PM
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Hey onetim,

Thank you so much for the response, I am confused about the clutch question though?  So you are saying that I need ...

https://www.minimania.com/part/DAM667A/Classic-Austin-Mini-Inner-Cv-Pot-Joint


and these drive shafts?

https://www.minimania.com/part/27H4776/Austin-Mini-S-type-Drive-Shaft-Left-Side-Short-Heavy-Duty

just using these two as examples?

 Posted: Sep 17, 2019 12:24PM
 Edited:  Sep 17, 2019 12:25PM
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Back to MM, you need inner cv joints and drive shafts in my case the outer cv joint were retained. Time for new cv boots as well as a check for wear on all the joints. What clutch type are oh going with? Pre verto or verto?

 Posted: Sep 17, 2019 11:34AM
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Image Gallery

Your answer was spot on and I have made progress, now I have a new issue.. thought I would continue this thread if possible... I have my original differential output...

Original Differential Output

and my new MM engine has a 'new' output that of course my drive shaft cannot connect to.. (hopefully these images are attaching)

new MM Differential output shaft

Would you know what I need to purchase to connect to this new output shaft?  of course this would be for both right and left.. attaching smaller images to left as well

 Posted: Jul 8, 2019 06:00AM
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Yes you will need a complete rod change system including the gear lever and the bracket Doug mentioned.
AFAIK they are not available new and you will need to source a used one but they are sometimes worn out.
if you can't find a rebuilt one at MM Coopertune/Steve here on the board rebuilds them with new bushings etc.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jul 7, 2019 05:35PM
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It was from MM, thank you!!  I will give them a call

 Posted: Jul 7, 2019 04:29PM
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US
If you purchased a rebuilt engine/gearbox from MM, it probably has a later rod-change gearbox.  Your MG-1100 engine will probably have the ADO16 version of the remote shift mechanism.  It is similar to but different from that used on the Mini.

MM makes a rod shift adapter for the floor tunnel.  However, you probably will need to source the rest of the rod-change shift mechanism as I doubt they included it with the rebuilt engine.  Give MM a call and see what they can do to provide a complete set of parts to make the conversion.

You would need to check if the crank throw is a problem but you might also be able to put your MG-1100 gearbox under the engine you just bought.  Again, I would discuss this with MM and have them help determine which is the best path forward for you. 

Doug L.
 Posted: Jul 7, 2019 03:53PM
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I just pulled my 1968 Morris Mini MG1100 engine and see that the gear linkage is different on the old engine than my new one from Mini Mania.  Do I need to purchase a new gear linkage to use this?  Is there something I am missing?