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 Posted: Aug 16, 2019 04:38PM
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Thanks!

 Posted: Aug 16, 2019 03:03PM
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Check the oil level in the dashpot.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Aug 16, 2019 07:09AM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN5L1N6ER
Good morning all!  I have discovered something else new that I need everyone's collective knowledge to possibly remedy.  If my Mini has been sitting for a day or two, after I start her up (and after letting her idle for a few minutes), I have found that she sputters or cuts in and out when in second gear the first time I run through the gears.  Once I am in third and fourth, and all subsequent gear changes, all problems disappear.  The sputtering is also accompanied by more than normal exhaust / fuel fumes.  This only occurs when the Mini has been sitting for an extended period of time.  Is this a fuel delivery issue, timing issue, or something else? 

Also, say a prayer for me and send all the good Mini energy my way this weekend.  All the parts I ordered to upgrade / update my cooling system has arrived and will be installed this weekend.  I really appreciate it!
Hey, you may want to consider starting a new thread for each separate question/issue you have. Why you ask?

1) Good thread titles help people who are searching the forum who have a similar question
2) You will probably get more eyeballs on a new post, then adding to a pretty long thread.

And I have no idea on the reason it would do it just in 2nd gear! If you test by staying in 1st gear for a while w/o changing up, do you get the same problem? 

 Posted: Aug 16, 2019 05:53AM
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Good morning all!  I have discovered something else new that I need everyone's collective knowledge to possibly remedy.  If my Mini has been sitting for a day or two, after I start her up (and after letting her idle for a few minutes), I have found that she sputters or cuts in and out when in second gear the first time I run through the gears.  Once I am in third and fourth, and all subsequent gear changes, all problems disappear.  The sputtering is also accompanied by more than normal exhaust / fuel fumes.  This only occurs when the Mini has been sitting for an extended period of time.  Is this a fuel delivery issue, timing issue, or something else? 

Also, say a prayer for me and send all the good Mini energy my way this weekend.  All the parts I ordered to upgrade / update my cooling system has arrived and will be installed this weekend.  I really appreciate it!

 Posted: Aug 12, 2019 08:23AM
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Gunslinger.. check out John Brown wheels in the UK.. think this used to be Midland Wheel Suppy for the best prices on tyres and rims for mini or moke.. later bc

 Posted: Aug 12, 2019 06:52AM
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the werewolf, thank you for the compliment.  I have a set of 12" wheels and tyres on my wishlist.  Everything I have currently looked at is on back order at the moment.  Rest assured, as soon as the ones I like are back in stock, they will be purchased!

 Posted: Aug 9, 2019 06:13AM
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gunslinger  great looking mini.. I would ditch the 13s. and go back to 12 inchers..  will driver MUCH better in the rain also.. later bc

 Posted: Aug 9, 2019 05:44AM
 Edited:  Aug 9, 2019 09:35AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by onetim
Great explanation of the different carburetors. But pretty sure running 2 HS2’s does not equal A HS8 from a fuel or even a flow standpoint. Is it just jetting that makes a pair of HS2’s workable?
Others with more knowledge can provide more detail...

Mini engine heads have two intake ports that each split to serve the four cylinders (and 3 exhaust ports with the middle one serving 2 middle cylinders). With a traditional twin carb setup, the intake manifold is H-shaped, with a crossover tube to provide a measure of balance between the carbs. Since the firing order is 2-1-3-4, the "paired" cylinders fire sequentially. That means that before they fire, there are two pulls on one of the carbs, then a rest while those cylinders go through the rest of their 4-stroke cycles. That means the carb serving them would tend to flow-stop-flow-stop. The manifold cross-over tube modulates this tendency for pulsation, making the carbs operate more smoothly. The jetting and smaller throat bore would allow for better mixture tuning (note I didn't say easier!).  They must also be balanced so that each carb is pulling equally. From what I've read, a single carb if set up properly can be more efficient than twin carbs, and bigger isn't always better. 
hypotthetical math:
HS2 = 1.25" dia = 1.23 sq. in.
HS4 = 1.50" dia = 1.76 sq. in.
HS6 = 1.75" dia = 2.40 sq. in.
HS8 (if it exists?) would be 2" dia = 3.14 sq. in.

... so, no 2 x HS2 does not equal 1x HS8 (though some have used 2x HS4 on really big Mini engines).

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Aug 8, 2019 12:58PM
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 Thank you for the information. That really clears up any question I had about the carbs. I only have a single carb at the moment. The reason that I asked the question about the types of carbs was most of the new ones I was looking at were modified for dual carburetor setups.  The explanation under the heading of the type of carbs said that they were not stock for the mini and we’re set up to have a matching one on the opposite side.  More than likely I have an HS4,  but I will actually verify before placing an order for a stage one kit. 

 Posted: Aug 8, 2019 12:37PM
 Edited:  Aug 8, 2019 12:39PM
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Great explanation of the different carburetors. But pretty sure running 2 HS2’s does not equal A HS8 from a fuel or even a flow standpoint. Is it just jetting that makes a pair of HS2’s workable?

 Posted: Aug 8, 2019 11:47AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN5L1N6ER
Back to carburetor questions.  My carb has a fuel (?) bowl on the side.  So that means it is not a HIF44 or 38.  Is there way to distinguish the difference between a HS2, HS4, or HS6? 

Currently still have an exhaust leak somewhere and the fumes are finding their way into the cabin.  I am wanting to add a Stage 1 system to replace the current exhaust (mostly because the system appears to need to be changed).  Most stage 1 systems say for a certain carb or another.  Would a stage 1 for any HS4 carb work if I have a HS2 carb? 

I have actually thought about just purchasing a new carb of the type I want and them mating the stage 1 kit to the new carb.  However, carbs are more expensive than I thought, so that it not an option at the present moment. 
HS = (s for side) side mounted bowl.
The sizes 2 4 and 6 refer to the diameter of the carb throat in 1/8" of an inch over 1".  You need to take off the carb or at least the air cleaner elbow to measure the throat.
So:
HS 2 = 1" + 2x 1/8" = 1.25" (HS2's are usually run in pairs.)
HS 4 = 1" + 4x 1/8" = 1.50"
HS 6 = 1" + 6x 1/8" = 1.75"

HIF = Integral Fuel Bowl
HIF38 is 38mm = 1.50"
HIF44 is 44mm = 1.75"
If you have 998cc engine, most likely you have a HS4.
If you had a mild 1275, you might have a HS4 or HS6.

I'm pretty sure a stage 1 kit for a HS2 would not be suitable for a HS4 and vice versa. In either case, a modified exhaust system is supposed to flow better, meaning the engine tries to draw more air through the carb. The kit should come with a different carb needle (slightly richer) to provide more fuel for the increased air flow through the carb. If hte kit includes an alloy inlet manifold, it has to be the right one for the carb too - both the throat diameter and the bolt pattern.

Verify your carb and get the appropriate kit.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Aug 8, 2019 10:13AM
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She cleans up well!

 Posted: Aug 8, 2019 07:09AM
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Back to carburetor questions.  My carb has a fuel (?) bowl on the side.  So that means it is not a HIF44 or 38.  Is there way to distinguish the difference between a HS2, HS4, or HS6? 

Currently still have an exhaust leak somewhere and the fumes are finding their way into the cabin.  I am wanting to add a Stage 1 system to replace the current exhaust (mostly because the system appears to need to be changed).  Most stage 1 systems say for a certain carb or another.  Would a stage 1 for any HS4 carb work if I have a HS2 carb? 

I have actually thought about just purchasing a new carb of the type I want and them mating the stage 1 kit to the new carb.  However, carbs are more expensive than I thought, so that it not an option at the present moment. 

 Posted: Aug 6, 2019 06:13AM
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gunslinger.. ok. just call me and I can work you in..  1,704.487,6797 home..  later bc

 Posted: Aug 6, 2019 03:51AM
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 Y’all are awesome. I can’t begin to thank you enough for the wealth of information that I have found on this forum from speaking with all of you. This little car has more quirks than I could’ve ever imagined,  but I have enjoyed learning everything about these little cars and they are so much fun to drive. 

thewerewolf,  if you still have space in your schedule sometime after October, I would love to bring my little car up there to have you look at it and tell me what it may or may not need mechanical or otherwise.  I am pretty much stuck in court all week and next week and I will be out of town this weekend. But hopefully in the very near future I will be able to give you a call. When would be the best time? 

 Posted: Aug 3, 2019 07:21AM
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US
 Posted: Aug 3, 2019 02:06AM
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 Once my water pump, radiator, hoses, and new fan arrived, I’ll begin the install on that cooling system. Once I have all of that stuff removed I will check the status of the freeze plug. 

 I keep learning more about these little cars the more I think girl with that. I never realized that you have to put oil into the carburetor. Would anyone be able to tell me if it is a specific type of oil or does regular motor oil work? Also, is there a certain amount that I need to put in?

At some point in the future I have decided that I will either rebuild my current engine, find a donor engine to work on, rebuild and swap out, or just buy a remanufactured engine and replace the current one. It will be a while before I could actually do any of that but since this Mini is my new grocery getter, that will be something that on the list to take care of. 

 Posted: Aug 1, 2019 03:38PM
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gunslinger..  freeze plugs are no fun to install.. I have only had to do it twice.. out the 550 plus minis/mokes I have imported and sold..  you will need some good cooper tubing and good hammer.. after you take off the rad,fan and water pump..  later bc

 Posted: Aug 1, 2019 01:15PM
 Edited:  Aug 1, 2019 01:17PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN5L1N6ER
here is the only picture of the engine I have with me.  May not be the correct angle for y'all to see.  Seems like most of the carburetors look the same from the front.  I also apologize for the dirty engine.  This picture was from when I had the over heating issue when I first purchased the car.
Hard to tell from your pic angle. HS4 will have a float chamber on the side with a fuel line connected to it, HIF 38 has an integral fuel bowl on the bottom of the carb.
It looks like you already have the cone air filter which is part of the stage one kit, save some money and buy just the richer needle or see if you already have one installed.
It looks like the freeze plug may be leaking on the block. Nice of the seller (tongue in cheek) to paint everything up with red, silver and black paint and over spray everywhere, a good way to hide leaks and problems temporarily.

EDIT: Looking at the picture again it may be the rocker cover that is leaking.


If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Aug 1, 2019 12:05PM
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when I was importing lots of minis about 5  years ago. I would tow two on my roll back then drive one from port of charleston sc.. to earl nc.  NEVER had a overheating problems..  you would think the POS Ellison would drive and sort ANY problems BEFORE he sold and shipped them to the USA.. ??

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