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 Castor adjustment How to?

 Created by: dogscarf
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 Posted: Feb 20, 2020 07:24AM
 Edited:  Feb 20, 2020 07:24AM
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Coopertune,  Thanks for the detailed explanation.  I may try to make some turntables.  They are like $450 for a pair new.  I think that I have the castor figured out now.  I took the wheel off, got the car to ride height and used an 18" long level with a digital angle scale ($20 at hardware store).  Zeroed it with the vertical from the floor and lined it up with the nuts at the ball joints.  I got both to 3.8+ degrees.  Next I am going to make two 1/4" steel rods stuck to my digital angle level which is also magnetic, and then just touch the fronts of the nuts on the ball joints, which should give me a more accurate measurement.


Dogscarf

 Posted: Feb 20, 2020 07:04AM
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US
I was doing mostly vintage race minis and required the correct tools for suspension set up,
and yes the tools are not cheap or easy to use. A Dunlop optical toe gauge was a start, followed by
four wheel electronic scales. I messed with electronic angle finders to measure camber. I got lucky and
found a like new (never used) Dunlop castor/camber gauge set. Only thing left to do was buy the turn
tables. While looking for materials at local scrap yard I found four 5/8 inch thick disc the same dia as
10 inch mini wheel and tire. I had fun hole sawing two for the front and had a machine shop index and
drill the lug patterns.

Lets see, seems the toe gauge was around $800. the scales were around $1700. the turn tables were
on sale at $650. The Castot/camber set was a deal at $500. The disc were bought by the pound and
the machine work for them around $75. 

As for measuring castor I have to get out the instructions every time. Seems you place the front wheels
on turn tables. I use a set of four 4 ft. long ramps to roll the car up on turn tables and spacer blocks to
raise rear equal to front. Once centered on tables release the locking pins on tables both sides of car.
Attach gauge turn steering 20 degrees leading edge of wheel away from you. Zero gauge then turn rear
of tire 20 degrees away from you that would be 40 degrees from where you zeroed the gauge. With my
gauge I have to turn a knob to center the bubble and that knob gives the castor in degrees. The gauge
needs to be firmly attached to the the whole time. Not sure if this helps. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Feb 19, 2020 07:17PM
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When I've watched a mate measure mine (on his rig) it seems to work because the wheel sits on a "friction free" plate that removes all side loadings as you turn the wheel (which you have to do to measure caster)....  Can't see how you would get accurate measurements otherwise...

Cheers, Ian

PS the plates are not cheap but I have seen a DIY article that suggests you can make your own by using 2 pieces of linoleum sandwiching a big dollop of grease....

 Posted: Feb 19, 2020 12:22PM
 Edited:  Feb 19, 2020 12:23PM
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Spank,  I have a caster camber gauge similar to the one MM sells.  It has camber and caster on it with a plumb bob.  The plumb bob has two pivot points.  I cannot figure out how to measure the castor angle on the board.  The are no instructions.  The side with castor is too small to set against a flat surface.  There are Gunson castor camber gauges for something like $250.  For that price I could just take it to an alignment shop for $80.  I also have a KIPA bubble camber gauge with magnetic base. Oh, and I already have adjustable tie rods and control arms.  Camber and toe are easy.  Castor is giving me issues.

Dogscarf

 Posted: Feb 19, 2020 11:07AM
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https://www.minimania.com/TOOL10___Instructions_for_Camber_Castor_Gauge


As for how to change it-- you can either spend a bunch of $ on the adjustable tie rods https://www.minimania.com/part/21A1091/Classic-Mini-Cooper-Tie-Rods-Adjustable-Heavy-Duty-Pair

or you can just change the effective length of your tie rods by swapping around bushings and putting / removing in washers between the subframe and the stock tie rods (on the bushing side that is between the subframe and the hub/upright).

As camber changes, so does castor and vice-versa, like the article says. You have to spiral in to the reading you want-- so adjust castor then readjust camber then readjust castor then readjust camber, until you have both where you want them.

At THAT point, take a reading of your car height (for example sill lip to ground at the front and rear). As the suspension cones settle, it will change your castor and your camber. BUT all you need to do is raise your suspension trumpets back up to your previously measured ride height and that will put your castor and camber back where you had set them. The castor and camber won't change-- just the ride height will change them. Resetting the ride height will get it all back into wack, so to speak

 Posted: Feb 19, 2020 09:41AM
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That is not the way to adjust castor. I could launch into a long informative monologue about how to do it, but it'd be easier for you to read this from Hot Rod Magazine...

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0910-diy-alignment-guide/

Additionally, your camber/castor gauge should have come with detailed instructions for its use.

'72 Morris Mini - 1310cc, K1100 head conversion

 

 

 

 Posted: Feb 19, 2020 07:33AM
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Fellow Minioids,  I am trying to adjust the castor on my 1967 Mini Cooper S.  I have figured out the camber and toe-in, tow-out just fine.  I have a camber/castor gauge, but I am not sure how to orient it on the wheel to obtain the castor measurement.  I turn the wheels all the way to one direction and then put the gauge against the tire and measure and I am getting from 2-4 degrees.  However, I don't know if this method is right or not.  I need to get 3-3.5 degrees.

Dogscarf

1965 Mini Cooper Mk1
1967 Mini Cooper S Mk1
1968 Mini Cooper S Mk2