Created by: | Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
| Mar 7, 2020 06:06AM | dklawson | Edited: Mar 7, 2020 06:12AM |
| Mar 7, 2020 01:57AM | rileykestrel |
Posted:
Mar 7, 2020
06:06AM
Edited:
Mar 7, 2020
06:12AM
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Total posts: 9241
Last post: Aug 17, 2023 Member since:Jun 5, 2000
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Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
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Others with more experience will be along to add their posts soon.
Hard shifting when warm can be due to several things. I would start by looking at wear in the clutch mechanism. Start at the clutch pedal and master cylinder clevis. Inspect the clevis pin, master cylinder pushrod, and the clevis pin hole in the pedal. From there, move to the slave cylinder, its pushrod, clevis pin, and the hole in the top of the throw out arm. The next place to check is the bottom of the throw out arm and the release bearing carrier. Inspect the ball on the bottom of the throw out arm and the mating hole in the bearing carrier. Wear in ALL these locations adds up meaning that when you push the clutch pedal there is significantly less motion provided to release the clutch. Repair is by replacement. At one time our host had a kit consisting of all the components likely to wear but I cannot find that kit at the moment.
Again, I would look at the placed I list above first since they are external to the gearbox. If replacing the wear components doesnt help you may have to look inside the gearbox at components like the selector hubs and shift forks.
The wear on the flywheel hub and crank taper should not be responsible for the problem but it would have been nice to address those the last time the engine was out of the car. High spots can be dressed down carefully and then the crank and hub can be lapped together to restore a good fit.
EDIT: While looking for the clutch linkage kit I found the article below by Chuck H. It may prove helpful.
https://www.minimania.com/Clutch_Checking__Pre_Verto__1086
Hard shifting when warm can be due to several things. I would start by looking at wear in the clutch mechanism. Start at the clutch pedal and master cylinder clevis. Inspect the clevis pin, master cylinder pushrod, and the clevis pin hole in the pedal. From there, move to the slave cylinder, its pushrod, clevis pin, and the hole in the top of the throw out arm. The next place to check is the bottom of the throw out arm and the release bearing carrier. Inspect the ball on the bottom of the throw out arm and the mating hole in the bearing carrier. Wear in ALL these locations adds up meaning that when you push the clutch pedal there is significantly less motion provided to release the clutch. Repair is by replacement. At one time our host had a kit consisting of all the components likely to wear but I cannot find that kit at the moment.
Again, I would look at the placed I list above first since they are external to the gearbox. If replacing the wear components doesnt help you may have to look inside the gearbox at components like the selector hubs and shift forks.
The wear on the flywheel hub and crank taper should not be responsible for the problem but it would have been nice to address those the last time the engine was out of the car. High spots can be dressed down carefully and then the crank and hub can be lapped together to restore a good fit.
EDIT: While looking for the clutch linkage kit I found the article below by Chuck H. It may prove helpful.
https://www.minimania.com/Clutch_Checking__Pre_Verto__1086
Doug L.
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Total posts: 4
Last post: Mar 7, 2020 Member since:Oct 10, 2019
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Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Hello, I have an A series engine & manual box. The gears become hard to change after a few miles. ( ok in garage ) clutch works fine. Clutch is free when operated ie no drag. The crankshaft flywheel taper had damage but flywheel fitted fine and true. It was not clamping up the primary gear / c clip ( I drilled a spy hole in casing to check this ). Question is - if the clutch is working as it should can this taper damage cause the gears to be tight? I have checked all clutch settings ie throw, slave cylinder / all gaps/condition of release arm. or is the problem within the gearbox? Thanks
The car is a Vanden Plas 1300 1974 Manual
The car is a Vanden Plas 1300 1974 Manual
