There seems to be two schools of thought regarding short-shift kits. While one group thinks they're great, the other group is concerned that the short-shifter will overrun the baulk rings. I happen to be in the first group. I restored a '68 VW Type II Double Cab a few years ago. If there's a shifter with a longer throw than the VW Type II, I don't know what it would be—a Mini magic wand, perhaps? I swear, the throw on the VW was at least 18". The seatbelts were the non-retractable type, and with the driver's seat pushed back to accommodate my 6'1" frame, I literally couldn't reach 3rd gear. A short-shift kit solved the problem. 80k miles on the VW and the baulk rings are doing fine.

While I certainly don't want to pull my lump just to replace a worn out $10.00 baulk ring either, I appreciate those who express mechanical sympathy toward our somewhat delicate transmissions. However, it's not the shifter that tends to overrun the baulk rings, it's the guy shifting the shifter. Just because a short-shift kit allows you to slam the shifts, don't. Take it easy on the up-shifts, always double-clutch and bip the throttle on the down-shifts and enjoy the tight and direct feel the short-shift kit allows. 

It's taking some time getting accustomed to it but works beautifully. I did replace the shift selector eye and bushings so it is very tight...very precise, no slop.

Knob comes off. There should be a lock nut to loosen first. I bet you find the KAD shifter will overwhelm the synchros. IMO a remote shifter is already a shortish shifter. If its feels sloppy its due to worn out bushings in the shift rods. If so it will still be sloppy with the KAD. 

How does one re-install the shift boot over the KAD Rod Change short shift...does the shift knob unscrew or does the whole stick come off. I haven't tried yet just getting ready to install and don't want to face a problem at the finish.