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 Posted: Nov 10, 2021 11:02PM
 Edited:  Nov 10, 2021 11:06PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haydn
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex

The lock tab on that particular bolt isn't much use - you can undo it with a breaker bar without untabbing it...

Loctite is your friend.

As you can with most bolts but the factory installed it for a reason I am sure if they thought they did not need it the bean counters would have binned it.
Agree on the loctite.
When I look up the bolt online I don't see a washer anywhere. Would you mind pushing me in the right direction? 
Have you got a Haynes manual if not you should as it is a wealth of information.
As you are pulling the radiator now is the time to replace the radiator hoses, water pump, and timing cover seal while you have the radiator out.
The washer is on this site part number Tam2020 for $3.90.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Nov 10, 2021 04:41PM
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Has anyone replaced that bolt with this? 
//www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Block/Studs_bolts/C-AHT147.aspx?100112&ReturnUrl=/product/classic/TOOL22.aspx|Back%20to

 Posted: Nov 10, 2021 03:45PM
 Edited:  Nov 10, 2021 04:10PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie_B
Item number 15. Depends on what size you have. https://www.minimania.com/CatPage/5-3/5/3/0/Water-Pump-Pulleys--Ancillaries
Ok so this is my third time editing this post. I do have a 1275 A+ engine based off of the dipstick and the alternator brackets. Thank you for being so helpful

 Posted: Nov 10, 2021 03:38PM
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US
Item number 15. Depends on what size you have.

https://www.minimania.com/CatPage/5-3/5/3/0/Water-Pump-Pulleys--Ancillaries

"How can anything bigger be mini?"

 Posted: Nov 10, 2021 03:26PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex

The lock tab on that particular bolt isn't much use - you can undo it with a breaker bar without untabbing it...

Loctite is your friend.

As you can with most bolts but the factory installed it for a reason I am sure if they thought they did not need it the bean counters would have binned it.
Agree on the loctite.
When I look up the bolt online I don't see a washer anywhere. Would you mind pushing me in the right direction? 

 Posted: Nov 10, 2021 03:23PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimike1
time to pull the radiator and get that bolt torqued back in place.
I can only find videos on how to pull the radiator, not on how to put it back in. is it just a put it back the opposite way you took it out or is there something I should watch out for? 

 Posted: Nov 9, 2021 06:45PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex

The lock tab on that particular bolt isn't much use - you can undo it with a breaker bar without untabbing it...

Loctite is your friend.

As you can with most bolts but the factory installed it for a reason I am sure if they thought they did not need it the bean counters would have binned it.
Agree on the loctite.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Nov 8, 2021 11:34PM
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GB
Quote:
Originally Posted by Haydn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie_B
That looks like the bolt that is supposed to hold the pulley on to the end of the crankshaft.
Yeah, I am thinking that the bolt being wedged between the pulley and radiator has held in the pulley. What confuses me is how the car has been running fine with that like that

If your fanbelt is lined up correctly, there is no side-load on the pulley so there is no reason for it to walk off the end of the crank - it's purely a rotational motion to drive the ancilliaries.

It's keyed to the crank with a woodruff key so it won't spin, and the fit is a gnat's less than interference and can sometimes need a puller to get it off if there's sticky old oil between the surfaces.

 Posted: Nov 8, 2021 11:18AM
 Edited:  Nov 9, 2021 12:07PM
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Blue Loctite is your friend, in this case Red Loctite is not your friend.

Kelley

"If you can afford the car, you can afford the manual..."

 Posted: Nov 8, 2021 01:52AM
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GB

The lock tab on that particular bolt isn't much use - you can undo it with a breaker bar without untabbing it...

Loctite is your friend.

 Posted: Nov 7, 2021 04:26PM
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Don't forget to replace the lock tab washer as well.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Nov 7, 2021 06:08AM
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US
time to pull the radiator and get that bolt torqued back in place.

 Posted: Nov 7, 2021 04:12AM
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The pulley is keyed to the shaft so it will not slip, also that is needed to keep the timing marks in the correct location.

"How can anything bigger be mini?"

 Posted: Nov 6, 2021 08:00PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie_B
That looks like the bolt that is supposed to hold the pulley on to the end of the crankshaft.
Yeah, I am thinking that the bolt being wedged between the pulley and radiator has held in the pulley. What confuses me is how the car has been running fine with that like that

 Posted: Nov 6, 2021 05:55PM
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US
That looks like the bolt that is supposed to hold the pulley on to the end of the crankshaft.

"How can anything bigger be mini?"

 Posted: Nov 6, 2021 03:22PM
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I kept hearing a rattling sound when I was sitting still and I finally found this between the bottom pulley and my radiator. Any ideas where it came from and how I should go about repairing it? (I am not sure this matters but i Have a 1275 cc engine)