Created by: | Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
| Sep 26, 2022 06:47AM | Spitz | |
| Sep 20, 2022 01:42AM | Alex | |
| Sep 12, 2022 01:37PM | ve9aa | |
| Sep 12, 2022 01:18PM | Spitz | |
| Sep 12, 2022 12:37PM | Dan Moffet | |
| Sep 12, 2022 08:27AM | Spitz | |
| Sep 10, 2022 04:40PM | bluedragon | |
| Sep 10, 2022 11:48AM | h_lankford | |
| Sep 10, 2022 07:05AM | ve9aa | |
| Sep 10, 2022 06:57AM | ve9aa | Edited: Sep 10, 2022 07:08AM |
| Sep 10, 2022 06:06AM | ve9aa | |
| Sep 10, 2022 05:36AM | ve9aa | Edited: Sep 10, 2022 05:37AM |
| Sep 10, 2022 05:29AM | ve9aa | Edited: Sep 10, 2022 05:40AM |
| Sep 10, 2022 04:46AM | Dan Moffet | |
| Sep 10, 2022 01:21AM | Alex | |
| Sep 9, 2022 07:02PM | 62 Cooper S | Edited: Sep 9, 2022 07:08PM |
| Sep 9, 2022 01:55PM | Dan Moffet | |
| Sep 9, 2022 12:51PM | Spitz | Edited: Sep 9, 2022 01:15PM |
Posted:
Sep 26, 2022
06:47AM
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It did indeed work. Tach works and gauge lights work
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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Nice one !!
(assuming it works :) )
(assuming it works :) )
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Raise one for us !
~ 30 minutes in a Mini is more therapeutic than 3 sessions @ the shrink. ~
Mike 
NB, Canada
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Tha ks everyone. Having a pint before reassembly
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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Nice work!
No, the copper path below it supplies electricity to the bulb holder (removed in the pic). Take out the adjacent bulb holder to see the pattern. Each bulb hole as two copper areas for the bulb holder to contact - one for power and one for ground.
No, the copper path below it supplies electricity to the bulb holder (removed in the pic). Take out the adjacent bulb holder to see the pattern. Each bulb hole as two copper areas for the bulb holder to contact - one for power and one for ground.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Not pretty.....butSoldered in a small...about 1cm....piece of wire.
Now....is that piece right below it supposed to be connected??
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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A heated window grid repair kit might do the job. Fix the backing and then use the kit to restore the conductive grid.
DLY
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Go to your local Radio Shack ( does it still exist? ) , get some electrically conductive epoxy ( I think it has silver particles) and glue a small fine gauge copper wire between the gaps. If you are worried about how much current it carries it is not much. You could glue two small wires.
I did this on a "real" circuit board. Admittedly not getting shook down the road in a mini
I did this on a "real" circuit board. Admittedly not getting shook down the road in a mini
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Man, I am chatty today. LOL. Non functioning (older) tachs are often the result of a dried out (pooched) electrolytic capacitor or other failures of this type. Could always be a bad spring, wire coil, etc. too for all I know.
Tell us about the non functioning tach.
Tell us about the non functioning tach.
~ 30 minutes in a Mini is more therapeutic than 3 sessions @ the shrink. ~
Mike NB, Canada
Edited:
Sep 10, 2022
07:08AM
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If you want to attempt this fix or buy a new 'board', those are likely your 2 best avenues to get this working.
It looks like the ground may also feed your tach, but as I don't know what the cluster looks like on the front, I can't say for sure.
Was your tach always broken or ?
I will extend my offer as a 3rd option, knowing I'll just try my best, but no guarantee, to repair it for you, for free, if you want to mail (just the plasticky board) to me here in NB.
It looks like the ground may also feed your tach, but as I don't know what the cluster looks like on the front, I can't say for sure.
Was your tach always broken or ?
I will extend my offer as a 3rd option, knowing I'll just try my best, but no guarantee, to repair it for you, for free, if you want to mail (just the plasticky board) to me here in NB.
~ 30 minutes in a Mini is more therapeutic than 3 sessions @ the shrink. ~
Mike NB, Canada
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p.p.s-I do see at least 2 soldered connections to this cursed plasticky circuit board, (lower central part of the 'board') so at least
we now know it's "possible" to do.
do not attempt without flux, nor with your biggazz Weller soldering gun and a roll of plumbers solder. You'll just melt the frack out of it and be left with a blob that wire won't stick to
we now know it's "possible" to do.
do not attempt without flux, nor with your biggazz Weller soldering gun and a roll of plumbers solder. You'll just melt the frack out of it and be left with a blob that wire won't stick to
~ 30 minutes in a Mini is more therapeutic than 3 sessions @ the shrink. ~
Mike NB, Canada
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p.s.-I put my reading glasses on. That looks like it's likely the ground for a bulb.I do notice a small washer and screw is missing that goes over to a connector near the tach/speedo
See the red arrow I added to your photo>>>
(can we get a picture of the front of it too please?_)
~ 30 minutes in a Mini is more therapeutic than 3 sessions @ the shrink. ~
Mike NB, Canada
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Although I won't disagree with Dan, I think that it looks like it's not an actual circuit BOARD per se, but one of those flexible plasticky layers that mimicks an actual board. Extremely hard to solder to. Might not be impossible with some TLC when doing it, but if it were me, I'd scrape ever-so-gently to see if I could get down to the very thin embedded copper "layer" , use some liquid flux and a super fine 60/40 solder with a warm-to-hot iron turned down quite low and see if I could get a teeny-tiny #28 or something gauge wire stuck across the broken sections.
If that doesn't work, out there in internet lands, you can probably find some thin copper "tape" that sticky but conductive and do the same scraping and bridge the connection with tape.
Neither repair would be easy nor guaranteed.
I hate this plastic stuff.
If it was a "real" circuit board (which I don't THINK it is) I'd say mail it to me and I'll fix it for you, but that right there is the type of stuff that kinda makes me shudder.
<edit, disregard this now deleted sentence if you saw it...I saved the picture, then was able to zoom in>
If that doesn't work, out there in internet lands, you can probably find some thin copper "tape" that sticky but conductive and do the same scraping and bridge the connection with tape.
Neither repair would be easy nor guaranteed.
I hate this plastic stuff.
If it was a "real" circuit board (which I don't THINK it is) I'd say mail it to me and I'll fix it for you, but that right there is the type of stuff that kinda makes me shudder.
<edit, disregard this now deleted sentence if you saw it...I saved the picture, then was able to zoom in>
~ 30 minutes in a Mini is more therapeutic than 3 sessions @ the shrink. ~
Mike NB, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62 Cooper S
That needs to be soldered. Unless there's more screws that aren't in the picture, I don't see how tying the two screws together with wire will do anything.
Alex's suggestion of a new PCB would be the best solution. Nice to know they are available.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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https://www.minimania.com/part/CDU3247/Classic-Mini-Triple-Instrument-Printed-Circuit-Board-1986---1996
Soldering or crimping or croc-clipping isn't always successful, but they circuit boards have been remanufactured.
Soldering or crimping or croc-clipping isn't always successful, but they circuit boards have been remanufactured.
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That needs to be soldered. Unless there's more screws that aren't in the picture, I don't see how tying the two screws together with wire will do anything.
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It looks to me that that copper trace is a ground for several lights and the tach, judging by the screw through it at the tach end. There is also a screw through the same trace in the middle of the photo (speedometer) directly below the third lamp socket from the left. You could run a small wire with eye or U terminals from one screw to the other. That would tie the ground across the break. Be careful that the wire terminals don't touch anything else.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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T If it's just the light for the tach I don't care. If it makes the tach work, I need to fix. Broke it removing the gauges.
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
