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 Posted: Sep 26, 2022 06:47AM
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CA
It did indeed work.  Tach works and gauge lights work

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Sep 20, 2022 01:42AM
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GB
Nice one !!
(assuming it works :) )

 Posted: Sep 12, 2022 01:37PM
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CA
Raise one for us !

  ~ 30 minutes in a Mini is more therapeutic than 3 sessions @ the shrink. ~

  Mike  Cool  NB, Canada   

 Posted: Sep 12, 2022 01:18PM
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CA
Tha ks everyone.  Having a pint before reassembly

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Sep 12, 2022 12:37PM
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CA
Nice work!

No, the copper path below it supplies electricity to the bulb holder (removed in the pic). Take out the adjacent bulb holder to see the pattern. Each bulb hole as two copper areas for the bulb holder to contact - one for power and one for ground.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 12, 2022 08:27AM
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CA
Not pretty.....but

Soldered in a small...about 1cm....piece of wire.
Now....is that piece right below it supposed to be connected??

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Sep 10, 2022 04:40PM
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A heated window grid repair kit might do the job. Fix the backing and then use the kit to restore the conductive grid.

DLY
 Posted: Sep 10, 2022 11:48AM
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Go to your local Radio Shack ( does it still exist? ) , get some electrically conductive epoxy ( I think it has silver particles) and glue a small fine gauge copper wire between the gaps. If you are worried about how much current it carries it is not much. You could glue two small wires.

I did this on a "real" circuit board. Admittedly not getting shook down the road in a mini

 Posted: Sep 10, 2022 07:05AM
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CA
Man, I am chatty today. LOL.  Non functioning (older) tachs are often the result of a dried out (pooched) electrolytic capacitor or other failures of this type.  Could always be a bad spring, wire coil, etc. too for all I know.

Tell us about the non functioning tach.

  ~ 30 minutes in a Mini is more therapeutic than 3 sessions @ the shrink. ~

  Mike  Cool  NB, Canada   

 Posted: Sep 10, 2022 06:57AM
 Edited:  Sep 10, 2022 07:08AM
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CA
If you want to attempt this fix or buy a new 'board', those are likely your 2 best avenues to get this working.
It looks like the ground may also feed your tach, but as I don't know what the cluster looks like on the front, I can't say for sure.
Was your tach always broken or ?

I will extend my offer as a 3rd option, knowing I'll just try my best, but no guarantee, to repair it for you, for free, if you want to mail (just the plasticky board) to me here in NB.

  ~ 30 minutes in a Mini is more therapeutic than 3 sessions @ the shrink. ~

  Mike  Cool  NB, Canada   

 Posted: Sep 10, 2022 06:06AM
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CA
p.p.s-I do see at least 2 soldered connections to this cursed plasticky circuit board, (lower central part of the 'board') so at least
we now know it's "possible" to do.

do not attempt without flux, nor with your biggazz Weller soldering gun and a roll of plumbers solder.  You'll just melt the frack out of it and be left with a blob that wire won't stick to

  ~ 30 minutes in a Mini is more therapeutic than 3 sessions @ the shrink. ~

  Mike  Cool  NB, Canada   

 Posted: Sep 10, 2022 05:36AM
 Edited:  Sep 10, 2022 05:37AM
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CA
p.s.-I put my reading glasses on.  That looks like it's likely the ground for a bulb.

I do notice a small washer and screw is missing that goes over to a connector near the tach/speedo

See the red arrow I added to your photo>>>

(can we get a picture of the front of it too please?_)

  ~ 30 minutes in a Mini is more therapeutic than 3 sessions @ the shrink. ~

  Mike  Cool  NB, Canada   

 Posted: Sep 10, 2022 05:29AM
 Edited:  Sep 10, 2022 05:40AM
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CA
Although I won't disagree with Dan, I think that it looks like it's not an actual circuit BOARD per se, but one of those flexible plasticky layers that mimicks an actual board.  Extremely hard to solder to.  Might not be impossible with some TLC when doing it, but if it were me, I'd scrape ever-so-gently to see if I could get down to the very thin embedded copper "layer" , use some liquid flux and a super fine 60/40 solder with a warm-to-hot iron turned down quite low and see if I could get a teeny-tiny #28 or something gauge wire stuck across the broken sections.

If that doesn't work, out there in internet lands, you can probably find some thin copper "tape" that sticky but conductive and do the same scraping and bridge the connection with tape.

Neither repair would be easy nor guaranteed.

I hate this plastic stuff.

If it was a "real" circuit board (which I don't THINK it is) I'd say mail it to me and I'll fix it for you, but that right there is the type of stuff that kinda makes me shudder.

<edit, disregard this now deleted sentence if you saw it...I saved the picture, then was able to zoom in>

  ~ 30 minutes in a Mini is more therapeutic than 3 sessions @ the shrink. ~

  Mike  Cool  NB, Canada   

 Posted: Sep 10, 2022 04:46AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by 62 Cooper S
That needs to be soldered. Unless there's more screws that aren't in the picture, I don't see how tying the two screws together with wire will do anything.
The two screws I mentioned ground the instruments to the printed circuit board (subject to Spitz confirming they are grounding screws). They would/should have good connection to the PCB ground trace, which is broken. The wire, with the correct terminals making good contact with the screws would bridge the gap. providing ground for the tach and related lights. Soldering to a PCB is not easy, but not impossible, but without the right technique you either get poor contact or damage the trace further.

Alex's suggestion of a new PCB would be the best solution. Nice to know they are available. 

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 10, 2022 01:21AM
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GB
https://www.minimania.com/part/CDU3247/Classic-Mini-Triple-Instrument-Printed-Circuit-Board-1986---1996

Soldering or crimping or croc-clipping isn't always successful, but they circuit boards have been remanufactured.

 Posted: Sep 9, 2022 07:02PM
 Edited:  Sep 9, 2022 07:08PM
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US
That needs to be soldered. Unless there's more screws that aren't in the picture, I don't see how tying the two screws together with wire will do anything.

 Posted: Sep 9, 2022 01:55PM
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CA
It looks to me that that copper trace is a ground for several lights and the tach, judging by the screw through it at the tach end. There is also a screw through the same trace in the middle of the photo (speedometer) directly below the third lamp socket from the left. You could run a small wire with eye or U terminals from one screw to the other. That would tie the ground across the break. Be careful that the wire terminals don't touch anything else.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 9, 2022 12:51PM
 Edited:  Sep 9, 2022 01:15PM
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CA
T  If it's just the light for the tach I don't care.  If it makes the tach work, I need to fix.  Broke it removing the gauges.

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge