Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Jun 28, 2024 09:13AM | MartinGreenbank | |
Jun 28, 2024 08:00AM | Dan Moffet | Edited: Jun 28, 2024 08:17AM |
Jun 28, 2024 07:05AM | pbraun |
Total posts: 289
Last post: Apr 12, 2025 Member since:Feb 27, 2007
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Cars in Garage: 6
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I had a similar issue on my 1965 Moke with a 848cc engine replacing the original fuel pump (that was sticking off quite often, I left the side cover off so I could whack it from time to time). I replaced the SU pump with a low pressure fuel pump from NAPA. Fuel would leak from the overflow so I used another HS2 carb, same issue with leaking so I bought two carb rebuild kits and fitted them to the carbs. Same issue with leaking. I bought and fitted a new SU pump and rebuild an kit I tested the original (1965) pump with the rebuild kit, NO LEAKING. My moral - use original fuel delivery and carburation parts!
Total posts: 9806
Last post: Apr 23, 2025 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
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Float needles are easily overcome by anything over approx. 4 psi.
Years ago there was an issue with inlet needles and jets not having enough tolerance. With expansion, the needles would stick, usually in the open position, resulting in bowl overflow. Not sure about HS2, but I had the problem with a HIF 44. The carb would warm up after a drive and would not restart because the engine would flood when off. The bowl overflow, being higher than the top of the main jet resulted in the fuel level being above the tip of the jet. Fuel would casually flow out the jet, down the intake, into the cylinder(s) and eventually to the crankcase. I found that out the hard way: when prepping my Mini for winter storage, I'd run the engine to get stabilizer up into the car. On one occasion, the engine stalled out and would not restart. I pushed it into its resting place, finished the storage ritual and left it for spring.
Come spring, I discovered that my oil level was really high and the oil smelled funny. It turned out the fuel tanks was nearly full for storage but had drained half-way by gravity. The inlet needle had not closed on cool-down or even to -20C.
A new inlet needle didn't help. The solution was to file the edges of the needle off to improve tolerance. The needle is cross-shaped in cross-section, so there are 8 edges to dress. Not much - just to take the sharpness of the edges off.
Before all this, I went through the fuel pressure scenario. I replaced the mechanical pump. I substituted mechanical pumping for electric with a pressure regulator. I wrapped tie engine bay fuel lines with insulation. I finally resorted to a proper SU electric pump.
The attached photo shows insulated steel lines, a fuel filter, behind the filter a Holley pressure regulator complete with pressure gauge. All futile!
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
Total posts: 537
Last post: Jun 28, 2024 Member since:Jul 25, 2000
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Cars in Garage: 3
Photos: 9 WorkBench Posts: 4 |
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Peter - 65 UK Moke, 60 Bugeye Sprite. email: [email protected]