Did you get a new battery yet? (as suggested in your other thread). If you haven't, all kinds of strange things can happen. Even of you put a jump box, or battery on in parallel with the dead battery, it may be shorting out the good supply.

Modern cars will not bump start without a good electrical supply to operate the fuel pump. the engine management system (which controls spark and fuel injection AFTER it has done it various reading its various temperature and other sensors.

Relays won't work properly if they don't get the right voltage. Diito all the computer modules.

When you said "I tested number one socket were relay goes in and getting 0.5 average." what did you mean? 0.5 volts or 0.5 amps? Typically relays work on 12 volts DC and computer circuits on 5 volts DC.

With a good battery one circuit may be fine but if it and a circuit sharing a ground point has a poor ground connection, the circuit that is "on" may back-feed residual voltage to a circuit that is "off". That might be 12V if the ground is fully broken, or as little as 0.5V if the ground is corroded or dirty or a little loose.

This forum leans mostly toward classic minis. You might have more luck here. https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/

Anybody 

Hi guys, relays in engine compartment going heywire after car not turning over. Number 1 relay seems to be broke after testing with multimeter I'm not getting no current or.anything after testing to all different prongs. I tested number one socket were relay goes in and getting 0.5 average. Is this correct please. Also when I checked smart meter on ignition to body I'm getting all sorts of beeps and different current until meter sets to protect its system. I hope there is someone with knowledge of this.... Many thanks