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 Posted: Aug 25, 2011 08:56PM
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Member since:Aug 13, 2011
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Thanks!!

 Posted: Aug 25, 2011 06:47AM
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US

Make the seal flush with the outside of the hole. Don't push it all the way in.

 Posted: Aug 25, 2011 06:07AM
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Brett Most likely, you will use the seal only. The seal will go in the rod housing with about an eighth of an inch of the rod housing showing

 Posted: Aug 25, 2011 02:41AM
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How far does the black seal go in?  or does it sit on the outside...? The one that was on the car was so loose it was to hanging there....

I also bought the three peice kit

Thanks in advance, Brett

 Posted: Aug 24, 2011 06:48PM
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Thanks for the help guys. The metal bush would not fit. I must have the improved version. Used just the seal.

Another leak stopped. One or two to go.

 Posted: Aug 24, 2011 03:53PM
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US

Step one: drain oil!

When putting the seal assembly back in, check the depth first. At some point the factory wised up and added a better built in support for the shift rod and the spacer isn't needed...and won't fit with the seal anyway.

 Posted: Aug 24, 2011 07:21AM
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US

The roll pin needs to be punched out. It helps to put the car in Reverse to get good access. Some folks even put wire threw the roll pin after assembly for added safety. The metal piece w/ 0-ring first first, then the seal, then the rubber boot.

Good Luck.

 Posted: Aug 24, 2011 06:06AM
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I have searched the forum and cannot find the answer. I have a drip at the shift seal. 1000 motor. I have the thee piece kit to repair. I have a question on how to complete the repair? I can't tell if the shift rod sleeve is held on with threaded Allen screws or knock out pins. Should the car be in any particular gear to aid repair? What is the order that the seal and aluminum bushing go in the case? Thanks a million for the help. Matt