Hmmm, not a bad thought, but for the import tax on bearings from overseas.  I did order them from MSC, though, as the comparative price to local industrial supply companies was higher.  MSC was cheap enough - and I did need some other bits anyways...  Thanks for the part number -

I wish I could afford the factory tool, but I've got a bronze, might be brass, drift that works for now.

I probably should change my profile flag...

Torrington B1212 should be an easy find , Amazon , Ebay , or hmm , maybe the host !

//www.minimania.com/part/88G302/Mini-Cooper-Idler-Gear-Bearing-3-synch--Bearing-Upper-Arm

And if your looking for the factory Churchill tool,

//www.ebay.com/itm/291703107291?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Mousy

I was looking in the Koyo catalogue this evening, and don't see a reference to the 'L125' portion of Kevin's part number.  Would this be the same bearing? 


My upper arm rebuild kits have the caged bearings, so if I can find a local or UK supplier, I might as well do the job 'just a little bit better'.

yes my 2 bearings look like that. i dont like the look of the one with the cage. im gonna buy antherone that has all bearings. these manufactures dont realize that peopel would be willing to pay more to get a better product. looks like i off to the parts store

thanks

Original bearings are a `full complement' bearing, full of rollers (no cage). These bearings have a higher static load capacity than these caged ones Mini people are selling lately, and should be used for Mini top arms. IMO the shafts may wear faster with the caged bearing.
Mini shops are selling the caged bearings instead because:
1. They get them cheaper,
2. They are a common part elsewhere on a Mini (early idler gear bearings) and on other BMC vehicles.

I bought Koyo-Torrington full complement bearings, made in USA from my local bearing shop for Aus$10 ea, they should be cheaper there in USA. P/no is B-1212:L125 on the box.

 

The bolts are 1/4-28x1/2 and be sue to tap the threads to remove the grime

Are you asking about the front upper support arm?

The marked ends outwards.

Both needle bearings should be the same though.

Let's wait for somone else to chimb in.

Cheers,

Martin.

i got , there are 2 bearings. both look same on the outside but the inside is different. the one looks like the original with many needle bearings the ther has fewer and it looks like there is a plastic cage on the inside. does it matter which one goes in front and which one goes in back. my old bearing had alot of pitting on them. i cleaned them up to look at them.btw what size are the small bolts that hold the plate to the subframe.  i need new ones.

thanks