I, too, noticed that uneven gap between the fitting and the filter head. It's probably due to the sloped shape of filter head. I have been careful with the thread. I will try applying some thread sealant.

jia

mini from down under

just my 2 cents, are both fittings you have that screw into the aluminum housing screwing in correct??

in both pictures it looks like you have cross threaded the fitting and it is not straight in the housing, it will

never stop leaking if it is not straight, i would use a little high temperature thread sealant on the fitting, NOT TAPE

make sure the sealant is applied to the threads about 1/8 or more above the end, you do not want any sealant around

the end of the fitting,   

You need some sealant on that thread to prevent leakage. Overtightening it can/will spread (or break) the alloy casting.
A bit of Loctite 242, 262 or whatever will sort it.

One more trivial question. How tight does the filter header fitting need to be? I tightened the blue fitting to the extend that I'm afraid that one more turn is going to break it. But there's still tiny amount of oil slowly seeping out underneath the fitting. Is this normal?

jia

mini from down under

I custom made my line from steelbraided flex line with -AN fittings.  Used a 90 degree (high flow) AN fitting at the engine block and 30 degree fitting at the fliter head. Looks really sharp.  Sorry I don't have a picture with me at the moment to put on here.

Sure you can use a flexible hose, they flow better too.

Here's mine- it is from Pirtek. You just oil inside the hose and push it onto the fittings. 

1x- MPH-08 (35 bar, 500psi)1/2” Hose, 350mm long

2x- BF1-0808P Fitting, push-on barb type ½” BSPP female

Once again, thank you so much for the info, mur. I think this is probably what has happened. I did have to struggle to make the original pipe to thread into both ends. I originally tighened the fitting to filter head first. But the rigid pipe seems too short to reach the fitting. So I ended up doing what I described in orignal post.

jia

mini from down under

Tighten the fitting into the housing and then tighten the flare nut onto the fitting.  

Don't be tempted to throw teflon tape into this mix; anywhere.

Just get another used pipe and use best practices:  loosen both ends of the pipe in order to start threading the parts together, actual flare nut wrench, hold the 2nd wrench on the fitting while tightening the flare nut, don't overtighten

Some pipes are slightly different, for example, the pipe for a cartridge filter will need to be tweaked a bit to fit on a spin on housing.  If the fitting is cross threaded in the filter housing you may as well buy all new parts and start over.

Hi all,

I'm trying to replace old filter header with spin-on style filter head. After the installation, when I start the engine, oil spills out of the filter head fitting. With all the excitement, I got carried away with the spanner. Now the rigid pipe is twisted. So I have got a couple of questions.

1. Can I use non-rigid braided pipe to replace the broken rigid pipe?

2. I used the old tapered fitting on the new filter head. Should I have used a new fitting?

3. If the fitting isn't the problem, what's the proper way to tighten it? I used a spanner to hold on to the union, and tightened the flare nut until it doesn't go any further. Then I let go of the spanner on the union, and continued tightening the flare nut so that the union went into the filter head further.

Sigh, was hoping to have a joy ride this weekend.

jia

jia

mini from down under