Slot pump amd spider drive - we used the slot pump again

All - engine stripped .  Cheked pump - good , Chedked sump for parts / bits etc all good , checked filter casing - all good. Rebuilt with  new mains and big end shells 0.010" all. With plugs out spun ober engine 80/90 psi. Fired engine up 90psi - engine slowly warmed up- oil pressure gradually dropped to 60 - 50 - 40 . Hence problem NOT resolved - Totally ******d.

That is really cool Kevin!

Our host buys these slot drive spider adaptors from me. I originally had them made because the original spider with the spline in it became NLA over here.
It was much easier to laser cut a slot than set up to broach a spline. They drop straight into a spider drive cam and convert it to a Metro 1300 slot drive pump.
I have sold several hundred of these adaptors in Australia, they are now used in many race cars here.

To fit them to a pin drive cam, the diameter has to be machined to approx 1.000" diameter, chamfer the outer corner (not shown in the pic) then TIG weld them in.. The pin can stay in the cam.

Hello DRMINI

Our pump is a 4 bolt attachment to the block- we have 4 bolts holes in the 1300 gt a series block- can send a pic . All new S pumps ( that we can find )  have spider drives . I will take pics for info and attached later.. Shafts would need a slot machined in them and not sure if the sgaft is small enough to enter the bore of the cam to connect to the pin drive  - going to reassemble now . 

 bets Regards Bruce

New Cooper S oil pumps are still available, here in Australia.
These pumps are smallbore pumps (same rotors as an S) which have had a longer (and better quality) shaft made and fitted in Australia.

see //minisport.com.au/prod1766.htm yes they will ship overseas.

Another alternative is convert your pin drive cam to slot drive, by machining down an adaptor our host sells. TIG weld the adaptor into the cam. You can then fit a Metro 1300 pump (but 1 more pump bolt hole needs to be tapped in your block).

Hello Steve - just got back from collecting the main bearing shells . Box says they are made in Australia.

We can send some pictures.

 Unfortunatley  we cant get a new oil pump for a pin drive cam - and the shafts from later pumps have a larger diameter so not interchangable . Have checked the old pump, no wear and  its only done a few miles . Port edges look ok  and side faces just have expected witness rotating marks from the rotar. We don't want to loose the cam as its a period piece  ref special tuning data sheet Ref C-AEA 648 marking AEA 649 full race . So going to refit the pump - it gave 80/90 psi prior strip so should be ok - Comments ??  If you have skype we can chat some time and I can link in via samsung tablet to the gagare to give you live pics  brucejulie2814 is the skype ref .

 best regards Bruce

Thanks Bruce, well I guess that means you are not close enough for me to run by and have a look. I had not thought about a supply side issue. May be  a good time to install a COP. Check back when done and let us know how this ends.

Steve (CTR)

Hi KD - 'bit the bullet' its out - see above reply on what we found in strip

Hello Steve CTR

 Lets run through your questions

 Locn Uk Mark somerset UK  - check google post code TA94NP- been there 30 years ! if some trys to nick the car the alarms in the garages go of and I'll send out the wife ! god help them.

Engine purchased seconfd hand approx 5 years ago - A series 1300 GT  with std 11 stud head and box 22g1128

Engine stripped and short block taken to Hamlins bridgwater Somerset . Crank checked and polished , new ,mains and big end shells fitted all at 0.010"below std..

Rods were part of the short block - check for roundness and squarnesss to crank C/L not checked to my knowledge.

Rods and pistons were removed and bores honed/ to take out burnish. no need for rebore piston std size.

Center cap - refitted at hamlins

Thrust washers checked for end float at Hamlins engineering ( Note established  in 1896 ! check out web site www.hamlinsengineering.co.uk)

Cam bearings ok when checked as part of the short block at hamlins- not replaced.

Oil pressure at tickover when started goes to 80 / 90 psi when cold and drops when increasing reves  - once the ball lifts for the seat the  effective pressure area is reduced due to flow over the/ around the bal - check out Turnballs theory of relief valaves

Ball recked and ok

 Under power thing-  Found a problem as we stripped the engine last night . The pipe up pipe from the box interfaces with a gasket on the side wall of the box . On removal we found approx 50% of the hole covered with blacl rubber sealant - thus reducing the suction area  by 50%. Higher revs means more flow needed to the pump - We think the pump was starved of oil. Had this checked with second opinion with local mechanic who raced mini Pick ups ( longer wheel base) in the 1970s) Also just been back to Hamlins am today . Crank checked - 0.001" max  oval on center main - we will live with that . New mains due later today - we have the new big end shells.

OIl is 15 / 40 castrol or duckahms

Thanks for the questions - all good in case we miss something .

 S Selling my Mk1 S  if your intested - ref www.austincoopers1967.wetpaint.com

 Regards Bruce

we have had really different results depending on the type of oil used.

Quaker state 20W50 loses pressure. 

Once broken in ;We use  only Mobil One Synthetic as high  a number as we can find 15W50.

Given the numbers that you are quoting I don't think you should be taking the motor out before you try another motor oil.

A full Castrol 20w50 and an additive.

Good luck

Deb

Got to love how people fill out their profile. Always leave location blank. At least that way no one can sneak over and steal your car.

At least you don't mess around. Got a problem let's fix it. You mention an oil problem on first start up. Then you say sticking relief valve. Was it stuck open (low pressure) or closed high pressure?

Basics

You had the crank miked and polished?

Was it within spec for STD both rods and mains?

It could have been in spec for a common undersize.

Did you have your rods checked for round and size?

Did or were your rods marked and put back proper cap on correct rod right way around?

Did you install the center main cap right way around?

Any chance you checked the rod side clearance?

Did you check the thrust washer end float?

Were new cam bearings installed?

It's common to install wrong allowing a greater amount of oil to the head.

You mention 80 psi cold, is that solid 80 and how long before it comes down.

Have you checked the ball since installing?

The under power thing throws me. Seems like when you shift the rpms would drop along with OP.

What oil are you running?

When you think about it until there is a awful problem trash won't ne magnetic. Bearing are made up of lead , tin or aluminium on a steel backing.

Sorry for all the questions. Seems you will have some answers soon.

Steve (CTR)

Hi thanks - I tried a different mechanical pressure gauge and got the same readings- therefore I don't think its a gauge problem . . Taking the lump out in about an hour - will let you all know what I find . Thanks all

I would try a different sensor/gauge before pulling it apart.

Hi need help / advice . Just taken our Mk1 Minicooper out with its refurbished 1300gt engine . We suffered problems with oil pressure in intial running and found the releif valve sticking so we changed it to the ball and spring . Oil pressure is now 80 psi cold but when hot and engine revved it drops to 50 psi . We have just taken the car out and when pulling under load (accelearting) the pressure drops to 30/40 psi and rises momentarily to 50 when changing gear. Engine was warm/ hot . The block was checked and crank polished but no regrind as we were told by local engineering company the crank was good only new shells fitted . New pump was fitted . Can't think of aything else to check so thinking of taking the engine out and checking crank , scavenage pipe etc to check oil feed in gearbox . Oil filter removed and inspected for particles in the filter - all good no evidence of bearing failure- open the element up to inspect inbetween the pleats - only very small particles - none magnetic . Element replaced . No foam / pump cavitation evidence in the oil . Any advice commenst would be appreciated . Best Regards Bruce