Looks good Jon and I bet it works!

I just use an aftermarket cooler and hoses that replicate the satndard S setup (and bolt on in the same place).  I'm pretty sure that it all (including fittings) came from a (UK) mini specialist. You will have to cut the slam panel vertical brace - just like the factory did.. I've been running without the said brace for 20 years without any apparent detriment.

A friend used a similar cooler but bought his fittings from a local industrial hose shop.  The fittings connected straight onto the block and filter and the hose just pushed onto the barbed fittings with no need for clamps etc.  The hose is fairly soft but is designed for purpose and does need to be cut off to be removed. This doesn't seem to be an issue as you don't need to remove it that often and you just make the hose a few inches longer to allow for several removals.

Cheers, Ian

Well, I have a small, ineffective oil cooler that I really should remove... but I'm too lazy.  My car has the vertical slam panel brace so I didn't want to try and fit the horizontal oil cooler in.  Therefore, my installation won't help you.

I did have another thought about the hose you said is too short.  If this is a plain rubber hose and not a stainless overbraid, why not cut the hose in a location that won't be easily seen and put a lenght of copper tubing in as an extension.  A couple of hose clamps and you'll be back in business.

no one else has oil coolers? Just me and hunter?

10 row now but 13 row also slips in there.  Space issues (especially for extra rad choice) depend on grill type...have seen MkIs with less space, also boosters etc. that take up space.

Hunter, is that a 13 row? Looks like a 10 row from the pictures. If that's the case, then it's probably why mine doesn't quite fit in the same place. I'm gonna try to massage it into place where you have yours, but it hits the plug wires. I'm thinking of mounting it lower on the subframe front rail and drilling some holes on the lower valance to allow more air flow across the oil cooler and not obstruct the grille.

Mine is in the "S" standard position, rolled lip, moved strut etc. etc.  Easily moved for access...would be easier if held by zap straps ala some rally cars.  Easy to block off 100%, 50% etc. as needed.

First used an oil cooler on a slightly warmed up 998 that had seen oil pressure drop with rising engine coolant temps in strenuous summer driving.  Now use an oil cooler and extra rad (as shown in photo) when headed down into southern California, Arizonma, Nevada heat.  Equipment ensures NO overheating with loaded Mini in hot temps like going to MMW 2012.

 

I agree, Doug. I don't really want to cut up the fittings, but if necessary and possible, I would definitely do it. I'm not fitting this oil cooler to be showy. In fact, the location I'm mounting it in will hardly be seen at all but it will give it quite a bit or air flow with some modification. Mike (from CMU and Minisport-usa) offered to try and get me the bare fittings and tube. Might just take him up on it and have an extra hose laying aroung just in case.

 

So on to question 2... who has an oil cooler and how is it mounted?

The hose ends with the flares are similar to AN fittings but are typically sized as BSPP (G) threads.  I believe they are G1/2.  The hose guy may have them... he may not.  Be sure to take the cooler with you to the hose guy's shop.  The fitting for the block changed on very late engines.  For most of the A-series life they are a straight 5/8-18 threads.  I thought the Mocal hoses used a straight thread to flare fitting in the block and that allowed the hoses to just have flare fittings on them.  Perhaps your hoses are different.  If you need a hose that screws directly into the block, the hose guy is not likely to have that.  You may want to see if you can find old hoses that can be sacrificed to harvest their fittings.  It sounds like the Mocal hoses you have are new and it would be a shame to cut them up just for the fittings.

I always change my oil between 3500 and 5000 miles (even though my oil could go for 7500 with no issues). I use to run castrol, but now I use Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic 5W-40. It has significantly better wear protection than most of the other oils I have used. Higher ZDDP than any new oil I have found so I don't need additives, and it's actually better in low temperatures than the previous 15W-40 that I was using. I found all of this out by sending out two samples of oil to an oil analysis company (Blackstone Labs). They compared my old Castro oil with the new Shell oil and determined that it was better for my motor, my weather conditions, and even my transmission. I'm pretty confident in the oil that I use so much so that I use it on my truck as well which used to see the track pretty often. My brother has been using the same oil in his classic motorcycles which have the same shared oil sump system as our minis as well as a wet clutch system.

How often do you change your oil, and what are you running ?

Sorry. Should have clarified. I'm running a 998 with a ported head and LCB and a couple other minor modifications. I do have an oil pressure gauge already and I have measured my oil temps at various parts of the year with a professional pyrometer plunged directly into the oil at high temps. I have also sent out my oil out for an oil analysis 2 times now and both times it came back that I have some excessive breakdown due to heat (both samples were from summer driving).

So I am very confident that the oil cooler is something I can definitely benefit from.

I know it's a bit late for this but.... Why not install the oil pressure & temp gauges in first?"
You may very well find out that there's no need for an oil cooler.

Can you guess the subject of this thread? haha.

 

Well here's the situation. I am currently just trying to button up my own oil cooler project. I already have a mounting point that I'm quite satisfied with but the oil cooler hoses are just barely too short. Well.. one of them at least. I'm going to try to get an oil line made by a professional hydraulic shop locally with the same fittings on the ends as the MOCAL tubes I purchased. I'm assuming the fittings on the oil cooler are pretty much standard as they come, but I want to make sure that the fittings on the other ends aren't something strange. The hose I really need goes into the block where the old line came out. I need to know what the thread pitch/etc is on that one as well as the one that goes into the spin on oil filter housing.

 

Secondly, I would like to see how you or others you know have your oil coolers mounted. What do you like about it, what don't you like about it, and what is something you think I should know/watch out for. I already know that it will likely need to be covered or even removed in the winter months. I've got that much already. And I'll be wiring in a new oil pressure and oil temperature gauge fairly soon anyway so I can keep a watchful eye on it.