I couldn't say for sure. It would depend on whether you can feel any side-movement (wiggle) between the existing shaft and the bushings it sits in. (I don't remember if it has bushings.) Test it with all the springs etc removed and with the throttle plate in the open position. Inspect the parts of the shaft that rub on the bushings for uneven wear. Too much play and the seals may not work well.

Ordered rebuild kit for carb. While I have it off might as well do a rebuild. When I ordered the rebuild kit i noticed that //www.minimania.com/part/WZX1128/Throttle-Shaft-Spindle-Kit-Hif44-Threaded-On-Both-Ends the throttle shaft spindle were on sale, is this something i should change? 

I'm in Ottawa Canada and have never been south of Kentucky so I can't help you with Mini gurus in the New Orleans area.

Go back and read my post (above/below?) on how to clean up your carb. If the car has been sitting, almost assuredly the fiel inlet needle is stuck open. If you have more than half a tank of gas it will drain by gravity through your carb and engine block into the sump. If your tank is full enough, it will eventually fill the sump and dribble out the dipstick hole. Drain the oil again, fix the carb THEN put fresh oil in. You'll want to let as much of that runny oil drain out. BEFORE you start it, recheck the oil and crank the engine with the coil discinnected to get fresh oil pumped through all the bearings.

Carbs aren't hard to rebuild - you just need to take your time and be patient and careful.

Merry Christmas!

It sounds as if you did nothing with the carb/fuel issues but try to make it work as is.... That's really not gonna get you anywhere. If the thing is puking fuel into the intake, I don't care what sort of "mystery oil" you dump in or where. Not gonna make any difference.
And, from your description of how it's spewing oil out the dipstick tube, you've got a crankcase ventilation issue. This or a vacumm leak will give you that "hissing" sound you hear.

BTW, was the Mini local to you? Maybe I saw it twenty some years ago..... Almost made the rental shuttle driver crash as I was jumping up pointing out the Mini..... light colored one...white or maybe a pale yellow.....

Check your work as you go....In the 1980's I left my mini garaged in So. CA. for almost the whole decade.  Left fuel, oil, water and everything else in it.  I would usually go back every couple three years and as I remember it was always the battery that needed charging.  Can't say it will work that way for you but...no or low gas would cause the initial problem.

The hissing is fine - it's the carb's proximity to the binnacle, and carbs hiss.  Mine's the same way.  I get worse hissing from the wife when packages arrive that say MiniMania.

So after changing oil and spark plugs i added 3 gallons of premium fuel and a shot of marvels m.o. Started the engine with the new oil and fuel. Fired right up she ran like a dream, after a few minutes i shut down the engine. Upon inspection i noticed that a small bit of oil was working its way out of the dipstick again, but smelled no fuel in the oil.

The next day i starded the engine again ran it again for about 7-8 mins. This time instead of locking the throtle i sat in the driver seat and worked the pedal. After about 3 mins, the engine would hold the idle basiclly anywhere from800-2500rpm, however if i rev'ed the engine i was pretty much suffocating it seemed like. in the cabin i would hear this strange hissing like sound(not exactly hissing but hard to describe). 

after running for a few mins i noticed the oil was oushing out more. The oil now smells like fuel, and the spark plugs are black as night. 

Tell me mini gods whats my next step? 

@danmoffet Any mini gods or gurus in the new orleans, louisiana area?

Good timing. Here are some rad shrouds.

//www.minimania.com/msgThread/111902/1/1/Classic_Parts_for_sale_part_2

The Gear S*** comes up from the floor closer to the seats.  I am located in New Orleans. 

   EDIT:  ^ what a typo

Good observation CC. It is interesting to see in a Mini a body-mounted rad similar to North American cars. No reason why it shouldn't work if properly mounted. I agree that zip-ties are not the best solution - they tend to get brittle with heat.

It is difficult to determine exactly what the engine is. The serial number plate is missing (from what I've read they tend to dissolve away when a block is chemically cleaned). It appears to be A-series (not A+ series) and seeems to have a standard head, pre-verto type clutch, a generator (not an alternator) and standard vaccuum-advance distributor. It looks 850-ish to me, almost crtainly rebuilt. As mentioned before the carb and intake are non-original.

M_M_60:

Does it have a 'magic wand' type gearshift lever coming out of the floor near the accellerator pedal or up from the floor closer to the seats?

Where are you located? There may be someone knowledgeable nearby who could help you out. Fill in your profile giving country/state/city. This site is pretty safe for that level of info.

The shroud that holds the rad in is missing. Missing also is a plate that goes to the thermostat housing that spaces the rad the correct distance form the fan. I'm not sure I would trust those makeshift straps that hold the rad and I would be concerned about how the rad is supported at the bottom without the shroud. One thing though the shroud is a PITA when time comes to remove the rad.

So, you have a HIF type SU carburetor. They come in an assortment of sizes and types, though generally they are 1.5" (38mm) or 1.75"(44mm).  It is not original to your car, nor is the intake manifold. It may ahve received a "Stage 1" upgrade - mainly a new carb and manifolds with an improved exhaust system. A wider photo of the top and front of the engine would indicate whether the engine is original to the car - the engine serial number would be more definitive, though that doesn't matter for this thread. You just want it running.

The HIF fuel bowl is at the bottom of the carb. To get at it, you need to remove the carb entirely. You will need a rebuild kit which should include all the appropriate seals and an fuel inlet jet and needle, and maybe a float.

To just clean the bowl and inlet jet:

To get to the jets and float, you invert the carb, remove the 4 bottom screws and remove the bottom cover. Inside you will see the float, (the orange thing in my photo). Its pivot shaft is a long screw removed from the outside of the carb. Once the float is out, you will see the back end of the inlet needle sitting in the brass 'jet' which looks like a hex nut with a smooth hole in it (not visible in my pic but just to the left of white 'snorkel'.

To get s wrench socket on the brass jet, you will have to remove more guts: the white snorkel is the bottom of then main metering jet. To get it out, you remove the fuel mixture lever (referred to as a 'bi-metal strip') by removing the screw with spring seen in my pic at 11:00 o'clock.

Now you can put a socket on the brass jet and remove it. It will most likely be stuck in with varnish, but once you get it loose, you should find on its other end a tiny fuel screen, which also needs cleaning, or replacement if you bought a new jet.

A tip: on some of the replacement inlet jets and needles, the tolerance between them was too close. When the carb warmed up, expansion of the jet and needle would cause the needle to stick, resulting in the flooding issue such as I struggled with. I even had this problem with a factory-new HIF-44. The solution was to gently file down the edges of the four fins (8 edges in all) on the needle, just 2 or 3 thousands of an inch before reassembly.

Another tip: if you don't touch the mixture adjustment screw, the main jet will be closer to the right position when you eventually try to start it again. When you do look inside, you will see that screwing in that screw (clockwise), pushes on the 'lever' which pulls the main jet down, richening the mixture.

If you do do a full strip-down, take lots of pics as you go of where and how springs, cams, nuts and other bits and bobs go... it can be a real puzzle getting it right. Lay things out on a tray in sequence helps too.

It was stored in a non climate controlled garage for 3 years, the past two years it has been climate controlled. I had noticed the scent of gas but, I just wrote the scent off as unimportant.

EDIT: https://plus.google.com/photos/109906848812083276486/albums/5810306179761565809/5810306179775801970

A shot from under the hood,of the carb

Yes. However, it would depend on the type of carb (HS or HIF or other), whether the bowl overflow has a drain tube attached. The carb can dribble down its throat (especially on a HIF)  without flowing out the bowl vent if the fuel pump isn't running because the vent is higher than the jet tip. A properly connected overflow tube would lead fumes away (as it is supposed to) where they could dissipate unnoticed.

Another aspect is where the car is stored. Outside, nobody would notice. Inside a well ventilated garage (such as mine) or one that nobody goes into for the winter, again it would not be noticed.

Even though my garage is accessed several times a day, and no fuel other than in vehicles is stored there (it smells like fresh lumber), my 'drainage' was not discovered until spring when I woke Desiree from her slumber, had her started and running, and decided to check the oil before going for a short spin. It was runny and smelly! I never store the Mini with more than half a tank (which has been treated with POR-15) and Stabilizer.

Ok so upon further inspection, no fuel in the tank. So I drained that aromatic oil/fuel mixture for an hour or so than replaced with some fresh 20/50, and a new filter.  Added an in-line fuel filter, changed the spark pulgs. 

A stuck needle should have resulted in the float bowl over flowing with attendant fuel aroma and potential for a fire.

Agree with all, except pull apart the carb and clean. Going this long w/o running the gas is c*rap. Before going with a new pump test it first. Remove the output line and let it run into a jar with key on.