What oil to use?
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Mobil 1 5W-20W per articles here and elsewhere. Thinner weight oil for our engines, I get a noticeable bump in power.
You may pick up a horse or two, but you are compromising a high revving engine with a light weight synthetic (?) oil AND....5w-20w does not protect those meshing gears in the transmission when that oil is hot. my $0.02.
I use Castrol 20/50 with 1 quart of Lucas oil additive, every 3,000, miles, for the last 65,000 miles. Eventually, we all do what works for each of us.
X 2 Peter. The zddp is more necessary in fresh re builds and i have not seen any more wear in engines with miles on them using straight 20w - 50, i use Castrol or Valvoline usually whichever is on sale.
X 2 mascherk we do regular yearly long distance trips in Mini's with older engines of around 1500 to 2500 miles sometimes pulling a trailer and drive them daily with regular 20w 50 oil and no noticeable problems.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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I'm not asking for absolute proof, but I'm curious. Has anyone had experience with lifter failure or cam failure that might have been traceable to oil choice?
Years ago when the lack ZDDP was first brought up on the internet as a problem the examples given were high performance V8s with cams failing within a few hundred miles of rebuild. Warnings were generally about ZDDP during the break-in phase of a rebuilt engine.
Just curious.
Kelley
"If you can afford the car, you can afford the manual..."
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Race car, Brad Penn. Street cars, whatever. Oils today are sooooo much better than 20 or 30 years ago. Racing a mini in the old days many times needed two oil coolers and a hot streeter need one. Today one on the racing mini and an oilstat is recommended. A streeter wouldn't need one unless it was really radical. Nope, in my opinion finding a good oil just ain't that big of deal anymore. Most of what is on the shelf today is good enough for typical driving.
I'm afraid not; our 'flat tappet' engines-even for 'road use,' do not take kindly to the 'newest'-API SM and particulary the latest 'SN' oil--which itself, appears not to benefit even by ones purchase & adding a bottle of 'zinc'phosphate' [zddp].
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I was just lurking, but have really enjoyed this, and got some great information too!
Jim
1962 Austin Mini Cooper 850 / AA2S7L31026
2005 Mini Cooper R53 JCW / WMW RE 33465 TD 92321
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I use Brad Penn Grade 1 20w50 in all my A-series motors. It not only has zddp but it has the propper level of zddp that push rod engines require. Vr1 no longer has the proper level. Additives don't properly mix with the oil therefor don't offer as much protection.
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Nevertheless, it's a great product, and worth the extra effort in my opinion.
Yeah Benny, like Amsoil. It may be very good, but such a pain in the keester to buy you wonder what's up.
I ordered a case from Amazon - with free shipping to CA. Took about a week to get it.
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Yes, that right folks are pointing and laughing. At you.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Thanks for the entertainment blokes. Only 15 posts and I got all your panties in a twist. Got bigger fish to fry, so long Sir Bobby Sands
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I think I found Gary Burbank:
It's been fun, but this place is done. I have no hatred, and appreciate the good times. But this place now belongs to Tony and his pink mini.
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Wow. jwc914 (no-one even knows who you are). I spent 12 years designing and engineering transmissions, but have never heard anyone do such a bogus and useless test. We didn't even do abuse tests that way. I also forget we are talking about Oil here - so I guess Gary from burbank was doing this test just to make sure that the trans had the right oil according to your logic? Must be one clever guy if he can accertain what oil is used. If some joker did that to any car I was selling he'd be walking back.
You have 15 posts, and are coming on here, telling folks who know more than you ever will "how it is", and also threatening to sue them?
You sir, are already a laughing stock. Yes, that right folks are pointing and laughing. At you. You have zero respect on here, and never will. You will never recover from this.
It's been fun, but this place is done. I have no hatred, and appreciate the good times. But this place now belongs to Tony and his pink mini.
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Damn, I promised myself I wouldn't read any more of this c$%p....
Cheers, Ian
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Dan Moffet, this is called a "shock Load Test" and in a few minutes you will have a huge database pf real time results. front and rear flank shear load calcs will be irrevalent after this test
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Let me suggest a simple test for all 20wt multi vis oils. with your mini loaded up with the maximun weight it can handle, find a place with no traffic. from a complete stop, floor it in first, then speed shift into second and and keep the pedal to the floor until you hav reached top speed for 2nd. now for the fun part, push in the clutch with the gas pedal still at wot and FORCE SHIFT into 1st, then side step the clutch. repeat 5x YOU CAN DO IT if you have the strength. If you do not have the strength or the balls then find a pro driver to do it. Or you could just use st 50wt. Back in the late '70s a guy named gary from burbank taught me this test that he used before he would buy a car, Merry Christmas
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Well put Dan...I wouldn't want him test driving any car of mine either, regardless of what oil I had in it.
"Retired: No Job, No Money, Wife and I! Will travel anywhere for Minis"
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Now I'm curious about what this test is supposed to 'test'. The discussion is about oil and it ability to proect an engine and transmission. By max-loading a car and pounding the daylights out of the engine and transmission, the only test of the oil I can see is whether it says in the engine when parts get thrown off.
By fully loading the car, and working the engine to its torque and rpm limit. one could have a rough idea of how it pulls... if the rest of the drive train holds up... and it doesn't bend a rod or throw a valve. (Torque is better assessed in higher gears, but that's beside the point).
By holding the engine to its rev limit under load, then depressing the clutch with the throttle wide open only would encourage valve lift and piston strain, increasing the chance of misfortune.
But to then crash the transmission back in to first (with or without synchromesh, with or without disengaging the clutch) would guarantee damage to gear teeth and synchros and invite the engine to be spun at about twice its capable limit. Lots of things inside the engine to be broken there... valve stems, springs, timing chains, main rods, wrist pins, pistons... to impose severe loads on gear teeth and bearings, differential gears and pins, universal joints, CV joints, engine and frame mounts and even suspension components.
I dunno who "Gary from Burbank" is/was but I suspect he either didn't buy any of the cars he tested... or whateve he did buy didn't last very long if he drove them that way. If I ever met him I wouldn't let him test my car, and I'd never even sell him even a clapped out car. That kind of abuse is terrible.
Either your memory or your description are in error.
BTW, I have been driving a LOOONG time and am quite capable of driving without using he clutch up and down through gears, including first gear on a non-synchro Mini 850, so am not afraid to shift clutchless when necessary. However, I do know that not using the clutch invites excessive wear on shifter forks, synchros and gear teeth. Clutches are cheaper than gearboxes, and beyond that, Kieth Calver pointed out that engine/clutch braking isn't a particulary good idea as brake pads are much cheaper than clutch disks.
Oh, and don't waste your time trying to sue Cooper Tune. When he said "Benn, I'm thinking...." he was ONLY expressing his opinion. not defaming anyone.
PS: Gearboxes don't "shear long molecules" Gears work in compression, not shear. The length of the longest molecules is smaller than the space between two gear teeth faces when fully loaded. Long molecules are created and broken down by heat. Really high heat. Chemicals break molecules by chemical reaction.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Cooper Tune, Please respond with the name and address of your lawyer. That comment will cost you some money. You are all entitled to your opinion but you have not presented a single fact that supports your claim
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Try it for yourself. then you will have some real world data. we usted to do this all the time with 50 wt Castrol and never broke a box. went through a lot of motormounts and stabiliser bushings. This test will prove everything from valve spring to diff
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Let me suggest a simple test for all 20wt multi vis oils. with your mini loaded up with the maximun weight it can handle, find a place with no traffic. from a complete stop, floor it in first, then speed shift into second and and keep the pedal to the floor until you hav reached top speed for 2nd. now for the fun part, push in the clutch with the gas pedal still at wot and FORCE SHIFT into 1st, then side step the clutch. repeat 5x YOU CAN DO IT if you have the strength. If you do not have the strength or the balls then find a pro driver to do it. Or you could just use st 50wt. Back in the late '70s a guy named gary from burbank taught me this test that he used before he would buy a car, Merry Christmas
Ok, I can't stand the mystery.....what the f*** is this "test" supposed to prove, and how does it simulate ANYTHING a gearbox would see in the real world?