Normally the transmissions start to slip then you burn up the clutch pack or bands. I have rebuilt a few automatic transmission and as long as yours is a MK2b or later parts are not that hard to come by. I had trouble finding parts to rebuild my early auto (hardy spicer outputs), as Jpat did not have all the seals and gaskets.Also not all the bearings are aviable new so I have a few NOS ones incase I run across a bad bearing. I also recomend MA2 motercycle oil for the automatics as it is designed for wet clutches, flat tappet cams, and oil shaired between the engine and transmission. 

My automatic was re-built by Andrew from Scotland. Never mind the cost. You don't want to know. I bought the re-build kit int he U.K.I flew my friend in for 10 days, he stayed at my house and did the job. He is old school, straight forward and honest. I also paid for labor.

He also converted the car from automatic to standard 4 speed using a engine / transmission I bought. I have the 1275 / auto box / impeccable sub-frame available. PM me if interested.

The car set for 9 months at a shop to be re-furbished at the guys pleasure while giving me a break on the labor. He could not make it work. They are not about replacing bits. They are about knowing Minis and their transmissions. A complete factory manual with pictures did not help. Don't know anyone in the U.S. that I would be able to recommend other than Frank at Mini Obsession, who will tell you upfront what you are facing. Again it's a matter of being upfront and honest. No being able to understand / work on something is not in any way diminishing anyone's quality as a mechanic. Not knowing what to do and blaming the car is downright moronic.

Hi Terry

Make sure it is the tranny that is toast first and if you are sure then they are not hugely difficult to rebuild - I have done quite a few. Just do it yourself. almost everything is avaialble from jpat.com in the UK and they are really good if you call them and pay over the phone - dont seem to like emails that much. Do the modification to the forward clutch to give it 3 steels and clutch disks. I scanned the heritage rebuld instructions for Mike over in NJ and if you send me your email I will email them to you too. (dont post your email in case a crawler gets it just pm me or pull it off my profile if you want a copy)

It truly isnt a difficult job but there are some things you can do and some you cant just like any other rebuild.

cheers

Barri

My auto trans just crashed.  Could you tell me where you had yours rebuilt and the cost?

 

thanks

 

terry

In peak Summer months (95-105 deg.) I run Valvoline 20/50 racing, but have recently read that our engines never reach crank bearing temps that the oil was designed to reach max protection so I will swap to lower weight when my stash runs out.

In the Winter (15-40 deg) I run 10/30. change it at about 1,500 miles, this an SPI Automatic.

Change your oil when warm, drive left wheel onto a 2x4 or ramp to get all the oil out, and when empty, turn the engine over a few seconds, another pint or more of oil will come out, don't be in a hurry, let it dribble out as long as it continues. make sure you have a magnetic drain plug, it's scary to see the amount of fuzz that collects on it, if the copper washer is scratched or marred sand it smooth. check closely to be sure that someone didn't leave an old gasket in the oil filter groove, they get real hard and compressed and people miss the old one and stick a new one on top of it, I spray brake parts cleaner inside the canister and around the mounting hardware,  

Whatever you do DO NOT use any synthetic or synthetic blends or additives in an automatic, it will be the end of your trans.

I used 10/40 in my auto....I think that's what's called for.
Castrol GrandPrix motorcycle oil is readily available and contains zddp unlike GTX

I use the recomended 10w40 in my austin america 1275 auto and change it every 1000 to 1500 miles. I use shell

cheers

Barri

We use the Valvoline VR1 20/50. In the Florida heat I would always use the 20/50...

MA2 designed for wet clutches and flat tapper cams

Rotella might be a solution.  I would not put RedLine into a mini automatic.  I don't think your Castrol 20W50 solution was that bad a plan, though I think autos call for a 10W40.  The really important thing is to get the oil out of there quickly.

Mine is a 1275 single point injection. Can I still use it?

Best oil for a BMC A-series engine these days is Redline 20-50 or 20-60 Motorcycle oil. I use it in a manual 998.

The Redline Motorcycle oil is one of the few oils left that contains a full dose of zinc (ZDDP). Rotella used to, which is one of the reasons so many people recommend it, but it has been reformulated.

My automatic transmission has just been re-built and we are debating which oil to use to better protect the seal / bands. I was using Castrol 20 - 50 and my mechanic suggested Shell Rotella as an oil that deals with higher temperatures and has less detergents that would, in the end, damage the seals and band linings. I was told that the ideal oil would be the Halfords brand. Only issue is that I don't think is available in the U.S. Does anyone know an oil closest to Duckham specification?