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If all else fails, it may be the ignition switch. I had to replace this on more than one of my early MKI original Mini's. If they start shorting out, your Mini will just quit running out of the blue with no warning. You can still use the same tumbler and key. Here's a link to the part on our Host's website. >>> //www.minimania.com/part/13H337/Ignition-Switch-Mk-I-3-termminal-Mini--Mini-Cooper  Hope this helps.             Mini Estate

when you are looking at your points i would also replace the condensor, this sounds like it might be the problem

check to see if you are getting a good spark at the spark plugs, if you have a GOOD spark then i would check the gas,

how old is the gas?? if you don't have spark at the spark plugs then i would replace the points and condensor or order

electronic ignition, the make it for positive ground cars

A Mk1 would originally have had a 25D distributor.  Make sure when you put the new points in and gapped them that you put the insulator washers in the correct position on the threaded post.  The wire exiting the coil and the wire from the condenser SHOULD be touching the spring on the points and SHOULD NOT be touching the threaded post and mounting foot of the points.  If the insulators are in the wrong place you will not get a spark.

Also check your cap and rotor.  Over the years there have been numerous reports of rotors developing cracks and/or shorts from their brass finger through to the hole that attaches them to the distributor shaft.  A short there will prevent you from developing a short.

The coil could be bad but they do not fail nearly as often as people replace them.  Problems with points, condensers, caps, rotors, and low-tension wires are more likely and less expensive.  As Larry said, you can measure the resistance across the coil's low tension circuit (wires disconnected) and you should find something close to 3 Ohms.  From the coil's high-voltage terminal to the low tension terminals you should measure several thousand Ohms.

You determined this is not a fuel problem by using starting fluid.  That's great as long as the float valve is not stuck open and allowing too much fuel in.  Repeat your test AFTER you have disconnected the fuel line from the carb and plugged the open end of the fuel hose.  If the starter fluid and fuel left in the float bowl do not allow the engine to start and run briefly then you will know to focus on the ignition system.

My procedure for any engine that doesn't want to start:
1.) Remove a spark plug, re-install the plug wire and ground the side of the plug to a good ground. (thermostat stud is a good place) Have someone crank the engine over and you should see a nice blue sparkie. If not, figure out why not because it ain't gonna run without sparkies.

2.) As long as you have the sparkplug out of the way, stick your thumb over the hole. Again, have someone crank the engine over. If it doesn't try to blow your thumb out of the way, no compression=no start.

3.) And, since you had your thumb stuck in there, it should smell like fuel. If not, no fuel= no start.

4.) If all of the above are present, either one of 'em isn't enough or it's happening at the wrong time. (ignition timing)

Good luck and happy hunting

If you have a multi-meter measure the resistance between the terminals on the coil. You should get 3 ohms. If it is an open circuit (infinite resistance) the coil is bad. You can test spark plugs without the tester you bought. Take the plug out and touch the electrode end to any part of the motor end that doesn't have to much paint. When you crank the motor you will see the plug spark. NAPA should have a generic 3 ohm coil.

If you've pulled the fuel line to the carb float bowl and have fuel, next, I'd check the needle in the bowl and make sure you don't have a speck of rust inhibiting the fuel flow. If that's clear, Check spark. If you have spark, swap out the condensor. These fail in hot weather, and will start the car and then cut out, or sometimes not start at all.

You could also swap out the condensor first, and then go back to fuel and spark.

I am having a problem starting my MK1.  The car started for a few seconds and then it died.  It seems as if the car isn't doesn't have any spark (sprayed starter fluid in carb).  I know that there is fuel going to the carb.  I can also see that I have 12 V to the points when they open (MK1 is a positive ground).  It looks like there is a problem with the Coil but I do not have a spare Coil to confirm my suspicion.  I used an ohm meter to measure the condensor with a new one and the measurement was the same.  I cleaned the plugs and checked the gap.  I went to Napa and purchased an in-line spark tester (connects bewteen spark plug boot and spark plug) and it did not light.  Maybe this tester only works with a negative ground system ????  Any ideas on additional checks that I need to make?  How do I check the high tension circuit?  Thanks in advance